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#61423 - 11/15/11 05:56 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Lucander]
edpav Offline
stranger

Registered: 02/09/06
Posts: 22
Loc: Mass
It makes a nice pro piece for the traverse, presumably avoiding the F2 onto the belay. Maybe it was too obvious, and it's easy to get a functionally equivalent piece in, or would one have to get all the way up there, then come back down????

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#61424 - 11/15/11 06:37 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: edpav]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 223
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Whatever its use, the Broken Sling "anchor" presently consists of 5 nuts, two of which are dangling from old webbing.

DL

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#61428 - 11/15/11 09:16 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Lucander]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3763
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Dave, people use that fixed mank in order to toprope the first pitch with no drag, and thereby avoiding the actual crux of the climb, which is P2. If you were going to do this in two pitches, why on earth would someone want to hang on a jingus anchor when there is a wonderful belay ledge 10 feet below?

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#61431 - 11/15/11 09:57 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: RangerRob]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 223
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
I really have no idea why that anchor is there. I'm afraid to hack it because Lynn Hill might kick my arse - saw her tr'ing off it a few years ago.

DL

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#61502 - 11/21/11 07:04 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Lucander]
wombat Offline
member

Registered: 05/27/08
Posts: 147
Loc: gardiner
that thing confused the heck out of me the first time up but i may not be too bright. great climb.

I cleaned some crap from right of PR/left of GrimAce P1. Crusty cord, rattly abused nut, a still fixed old friend and a small tree (still fixed as well)

couldnt really figure out why it was there. Glad someone got the day glow webbing from the tree left of Jane.

Why won't the Bonnie's Crap die! Zombie "anchors"

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#61504 - 11/21/11 07:34 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: wombat]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
Originally Posted By: wombat

Why won't the Bonnie's Crap die! Zombie "anchors"


cuz
http://www.gunks.com/home/bonnies-roof-rappel-unsafe/

the midpoint up P1 needs to go away.. the crap on P1 belay isnt necessary either. The rap off Ursula is easier and safer.

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#61506 - 11/21/11 08:08 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: jakedatc]
SethG Offline
addict

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 680
Loc: NYC
The 2d pitch anchor on Falled on Account of Strain is pretty crappy. I refused to rap off of it. The resident pieces are a big rusty bong (probably fine), three old rusty pins (impossible to evaluate), and two equalized nuts, one of which has a cable that looks like it is close to rusted out.

If the gear were the only area of concern I think I would have used it but the slings/cord connecting the pieces are all old, stiff, and faded. If you go up there bring some new webbing or cord. I didn't have any with me.

We bushwhacked to the GT Ledge and descended from the Sticky Gate tree instead.


Edited by SethG (11/21/11 08:08 PM)
_________________________
It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

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#61507 - 11/21/11 08:13 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: SethG]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2082
Loc: SoCal
There was a note on MP today that the Last Frontier anchor is now gone.


Edited by Julie (11/21/11 08:13 PM)

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#61525 - 11/21/11 10:32 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Julie]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4269
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Can anyone justify the slings and rings on the first tree on RMC? If you rap from there, you haven't even done the crux. And if you get to the good ledge with the tree/slings higher up, one rap reaches the ground; no need to stop at the lower tree.

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#61526 - 11/21/11 10:43 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Mike Rawdon]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
untie and reuse at least the rings somewhere?

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