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#61448 - 11/16/11 02:49 PM modern times Beta
worthrussell Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/11/10
Posts: 90
Loc: NY, Brooklyn
Ok so I climbed Modern Times last weekend and I had a super tough time. I knew nothing about the climb except that it was a supposed sandbag. I looked at the roof and assumed there would be a good rest between the first and second roof at the base of the pine tree. I was wrong and went into a semi panic move and wrapped my arms around the tree in a death grip and stuffed my legs in the horizontal. My sense of dignity and pride did not return until i had the tree slinged. Since my attempted lead I have looked at pictures and seen people pulling the roof via heel hook and also getting higher and pulling what looks like a no foot good hand traverse. My Question is what is the best way to send this crux. Im going back to modern times this friday to reclaim my manhood but a little Beta can go a long way. Any tips to help me reclaim my cajones would be much appreciated.

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#61450 - 11/16/11 03:04 PM Re: modern times Beta [Re: worthrussell]
retroscree Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
http://cliffmama.com/climbing/2002/092002-Gunks/092002-Gunks.html
Navigate to the third set of photos in the left hand frame - gives move by move beta. You'll see that the climber in that sequence doesn't go anywhere near the tree.

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#61452 - 11/16/11 03:52 PM Re: modern times Beta [Re: worthrussell]
fear Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/27/03
Posts: 221
Loc: New England
Hehe...

I too found myself bound and whimpering to that tree many years ago, as have many before us.

The funny thing is, once I was starting to lead 10's I went back and it didn't seem quite so bad. Maybe solid 5.9.

There is no heel hook required although I suppose you could for the final move.

I'm 6'3" and cannot get a rest anywhere. I've seen people throw a left knee-bar in there midway before moving right but I couldn't make that work although I saw a place where someone with a much shorter leg could probably do it.

So I don't think there is any trick. Just have your gear ready to place, hang on straight arms, and KEEP MOVING!

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#61453 - 11/16/11 04:10 PM Re: modern times Beta [Re: retroscree]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
This is when trad only climbers could use a bit of sport in their life. MT is not a sandbag, most trad climbers are just not used to getting that steep. body position for rests on steep routes is key. Can get a good shake out here. I find the move up onto the sloper ledge after is harder than the actual roof.


Here's Rumney 5.9 bottom section is as short and steep as the MT roof.


looks a lot like this. minus the bomber knee bar you get on MT

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#61454 - 11/16/11 04:23 PM Re: modern times Beta [Re: jakedatc]
worthrussell Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/11/10
Posts: 90
Loc: NY, Brooklyn
Ah ha. That slide sequence was wonderful. I went straight for the tree. I guess that was my mistake. Traverse lower and move right before pulling all the way up. Good stuff. Thanks. Cant wait for an epic send this friday

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#61457 - 11/16/11 05:56 PM Re: modern times Beta [Re: worthrussell]
Daniel Offline
veteran

Registered: 05/23/01
Posts: 1515
Originally Posted By: worthrussell
I went straight for the tree. I guess that was my mistake.


Yup, a mistake made by many. The tree is tempting, but once you're on the tree it's very hard to get off the tree (or so I've been told).

I've never heel hooked on the route, but I took a much shorter second who said he heel hooked three times. I've heard about the knee bar--even had a second who used it--but I've never found it, maybe because I've been too concerned about powering through the crux before I pump out to look for it. Also, I'm tall.

<warning: gear beta>

I get the obvious gear at the good stance before the first overhang. I get gear again in the vertical crack below the last overhang, just before the last traverse right. I'd highly recommend taking the time there to place something; a fall at the end of the traverse, entirely possible if one is pumped out, would be a very big pendulum if the last pieces are under the first roof.

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#61459 - 11/16/11 06:42 PM Re: modern times Beta [Re: Daniel]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3764
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Good times! That tree suckers in a lot of people. I always tell people trying the lead for the first time to stay away from the tree, only to see them making love to it shamelessly a half hour later...Ha!! I move make one big move up off the stance, then start traversing up and right. the feet are not as bad as you may think. Positive smears and excellent jugs. The key for me is having the piece I need for the exit move ready to go before I commit to the sequence. being able to fire that badboy in the vertical crack below the topout fast makes topping out a dream, as opposed to a nightmare.

RR

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#61463 - 11/17/11 01:10 AM Re: modern times Beta [Re: RangerRob]
eparker_s Offline
journeyman

Registered: 03/16/11
Posts: 50
Yep, stay away from the tree. Its a nightmare for the second also. Instead find the rest pictured in the first photo. I used it differently, kinda tucked up inside, pretty much hands free. I would have been toast had I not found that rest. You can plug that crucial piece from there before committing to the last bit. I didn't need a heal either but I'm tall

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#61464 - 11/17/11 03:53 PM Re: modern times Beta [Re: eparker_s]
chip Online   content
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2675
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
I must be some kinda bad-ass 'cause I went to the tree and just kept going! Er, bad-ass idiot is prolly more appropriate.

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#61465 - 11/17/11 04:07 PM Re: modern times Beta [Re: chip]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3764
Loc: Ulster County, NY
For what it is worth, the variation listed as "Exit Stage Left", is well worth doing, and no gimme at 9+. About 6 or 7 feet before committing to the initial overhang on Modern Times, look for a roof crack that gains a hanging alcove, then a crab crawl left to the topout. If you haven't done it, you should.

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