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#61466 - 11/17/11 06:45 PM Re: modern times Beta [Re: RangerRob]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4269
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Anyone aiming for MT say, next year, might want to do the last pitch of Billy Shears*. Similar climbing but less exposed and at least a grade easier (it's not as steep).

*(If you have the grey Trapps guide, this pitch is now described as the 3rd pitch of Calisthenic.)

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#61467 - 11/17/11 07:00 PM Re: modern times Beta [Re: Mike Rawdon]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2674
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
A very good recommendation, Mike.

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#61468 - 11/17/11 08:53 PM Re: modern times Beta [Re: Mike Rawdon]
oenophore Online   confused
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/01
Posts: 5935
Loc: 212 land
Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
Anyone aiming for MT say, next year, might want to do the last pitch of Billy Shears*. Similar climbing but less exposed and at least a grade easier (it's not as steep).

*(If you have the grey Trapps guide, this pitch is now described as the 3rd pitch of Calisthenic.)
Another one like that is BM.
_________________________

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#61469 - 11/17/11 09:15 PM Re: modern times Beta [Re: oenophore]
talus Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1259
i once saw a girl go up to the tree and freak out. somehow she was able to get into the crack next to the tree and lie down.
_________________________
John Okner Photography

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#61470 - 11/18/11 12:53 AM Re: modern times Beta [Re: oenophore]
Smike Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 3143
Loc: in your backyard
Originally Posted By: oenophore
Another one like that is BM.


If that is the BM I'm thinking of over in the Nears, I'd steer clear, climbers on that climb a year ago almost killed themselves, and 4 of my friends and myself doing a climb right next to it, when several tons of rock + trees came raining down. How the leader lived, I still do not know till this day.

Annnnway.... Love that tree, only required gear to bring is a rack of bananas to munch on when your hanging like an orangutan.

Last bit of beta (don't read it if you don't want it) is do not pull the second roof early, 'dance' right until you can just pop on up. Pulling it early makes it 10ish...

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#61471 - 11/18/11 04:09 AM Re: modern times Beta [Re: Smike]
Jannette Offline

Cliffmama
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/03/00
Posts: 2219
Loc: Gardiner, NY
Originally Posted By: Smike

Last bit of beta (don't read it if you don't want it) is do not pull the second roof early, 'dance' right until you can just pop on up. Pulling it early makes it 10ish...


Yeah, I mentioned that in my cliffmama photo album as well. Go about 3 feet right, then there's a little foothold to make it easier to mantle up. When I led it, I was so pumped I couldn't stop to place gear during the traverse. I knew the moves and my second had led MT before so I knew he should be OK as well, so I just kept going so I wouldn't run out of steam until I could get a good stance. I don't usually like to run anything out, but I just don't have the endurance to get that piece in and still have gas left to do the last mantle. I haven't had the nerve to lead it again in years...
p.s. good to see someone found my photos and notes on cliffmama.com - I haven't looked at them in years... no time to keep the site updated.

Jannette

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#61473 - 11/19/11 03:40 AM Re: modern times Beta [Re: Jannette]
tls Offline
journeyman

Registered: 07/24/00
Posts: 54
If you google around, you can find the Vulgarian Digest issue where MT is described as a new route.

It says to go straight up at the tree...! So if that's actually the original line, then yeah, it's quite a sandbag at 5.8, given that everyone seems to think that line is somewhere on the hard side of 9, maybe 5.10.

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#61474 - 11/19/11 03:59 AM Re: modern times Beta [Re: tls]
tls Offline
journeyman

Registered: 07/24/00
Posts: 54
Hm, so, rereading it, it's not that clear. The climb is described in 5 pitches(!):

"This may be the biggest bunch of ceilings you ever get through, Mr. Jones. The route goes through the apex of the two overhanging corners to the left of the High Exposure nose. Start: A corner 40 feet left of High Exposure.

1. 80 ft. Climb open book and continue up face to overhand. Traverse left 10 ft. to small ledge.

2. 80 ft. Step right and climb over bulge, then traverse left 10 ft. and continue up face to overhang. Surmount overhang to large ledge (Grand Traverse Lednge).

3. 40 ft. Walk left 20 ft. and climb small corner facing right, then traverse right to very large flake. Climb to top of flake and belay.

4. 40 ft. Climb to notch in overhang and surmount. Traverse right, scared shitless, to large pine.

5. 30 ft. Climb from pine tree to top."

Now, I would not describe the tree in the middle of the business on MT as "large". So I suppose it was then so small as to not even rate mention, and one was simply to "traverse right, scared shitless" past where the obvious tree is now -- which is legitimately 5.8, not the absurd 10c that new comic book guidebook calls it (while I'm on the topic of that particular guidebook, does anyone here really think the first pitch of Pink Laurel is harder than P38?)






Edited by tls (11/19/11 03:59 AM)

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#61475 - 11/19/11 05:13 AM Re: modern times Beta [Re: tls]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2454
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Gotta love it when someone argues that MT is not sandbagged at 5.8 by comparing it to a 5.9 route somewhere else...

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#61476 - 11/19/11 05:24 AM Re: modern times Beta [Re: rg@ofmc]
Mark Heyman Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1123
Loc: South Jersey (Pinelands)
reading that cracks me up

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