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#61621 - 11/27/11 04:49 AM bombs away dream baby
worthrussell Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/11/10
Posts: 90
Loc: NY, Brooklyn
Just looking to get the beta on Bombs away dream baby. im short 5'06" and i couldnt reach the jusgs above. I did an undercling at a small shallow pocket and reached above to nothing that resembled jugs. Couldnt see over the roof and Just let it go for the day and ran up a bunch of other 6's 7's and 8's . Going back on monday. Question 1. safest and easiest way to tackle the crux? 2. Is it worth going back. 3 with the pro being quite a distance from the roof is the potential for ground fall a real possibility.

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#61628 - 11/27/11 07:18 PM Re: bombs away dream baby [Re: worthrussell]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
Worth going back, with a very good belayer. A decent fall is a possibility; this is not a TR crux. Gear's at your feet, and you shouldn't be clipping it short unless you want to strangle yourself up higher.

I am not much taller than you, but I don't count this as too reachy of a route. What it is for me, is sequence-y. I remember needing to move up on small smeary feet for sure, but the real thing is the sequence of hand positions.

In particular, there's a crimp on the right on the face of the roof that goes up diagonally right, and is thus tempting to use with your left hand, because that would pull your hips in, etc, and it's a bit of an awkward gaston to use with your right hand. However, using left then switching hands on it is deadly wasteful of your pump clock. Use it with your right hand, paste your feet up, then stand straight up to the big jug(s) for your left hand. I think you can get gear (big blue) hanging from that stance, but you might have to make one more move yet.

That's what I remember, anyway.

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#61640 - 11/28/11 03:31 PM Re: bombs away dream baby [Re: Julie]
chip Online   content
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2675
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Since you asked, Julie is spot on about the hand sequence being important. I remember climbing up and down a few times before getting it right. There is also a green alien placement just above the roof on your left that is very good but not so obvious, without which I would not have gone any further. Good luck!

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