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#61797 - 12/08/11 12:21 PM Re: Best Gunks 5.9's without *** [Re: Frank Florence]
talus Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1221
I don't think Cuckoo man is 5.9 if so sandbag 5.9. rib cracker is one of the best 5.9's i've done in the gunks and no stars.
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#61805 - 12/09/11 01:06 AM Re: Best Gunks 5.9's without *** [Re: eparker_s]
Welle Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 11/03/08
Posts: 211
Loc: Western Slope
Originally Posted By: eparker_s
Speaking of le teton has anyone climbed it as described here : tetonia


Yes, my partner and I climbed earlier this summer. Better and more sustained, but rock is suspect at times. Same strata as in -issima and Double Crack faces. You can climb all the way up from the ground in one pitch.

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#61806 - 12/09/11 04:12 AM Re: Best Gunks 5.9's without *** [Re: Welle]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2320
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
I like Rib Cracker too.

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#61807 - 12/09/11 04:17 AM Re: Best Gunks 5.9's without *** [Re: jakedatc]
cfrac Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/26/08
Posts: 365
Originally Posted By: jakedatc
anyone have pics of P2 of Psychedelic? trapps one. there is nothing on Mproj about it. perhaps that is telling smirk


One of the best 5.9 link-ups imo is Directissima to the GT, then finish on Psychedelic. It definitely does not see much traffic but it's fantastic.




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#61808 - 12/09/11 04:19 AM Re: Best Gunks 5.9's without *** [Re: talus]
cfrac Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/26/08
Posts: 365
Originally Posted By: talus
I don't think Cuckoo man is 5.9 if so sandbag 5.9. rib cracker is one of the best 5.9's i've done in the gunks and no stars.


Yeah I agree, Cuckoo Man is definitely 5.10, I think all 3 pitches are 5.10. As for Rib Cracker, Word! Excellent bottom to top!

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#61809 - 12/09/11 04:50 AM Re: Best Gunks 5.9's without *** [Re: cfrac]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 212
so is that the .9 bit behind him in the 2nd pic and the .6 traverse in the 1st pic? looks pretty fun. i love horizontal hauling smile

how is the chimney bit at the start?


Edited by jakedatc (12/09/11 05:05 AM)

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#61810 - 12/09/11 01:09 PM Re: Best Gunks 5.9's without *** [Re: jakedatc]
cfrac Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/26/08
Posts: 365
Originally Posted By: jakedatc
so is that the .9 bit behind him in the 2nd pic and the .6 traverse in the 1st pic? looks pretty fun. i love horizontal hauling smile

how is the chimney bit at the start?


Both pics are the "5.6" traverse, which we found quite hard for the grade. The 5.9 pitch below is kind of obscured by a tree, it's really well protected and it's just a typical Gunks roof (long reach to a jug).

What about traverse of the clods? The exit should get 4 stars!

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#61811 - 12/09/11 02:21 PM Re: Best Gunks 5.9's without *** [Re: cfrac]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 212
I followed TotC... not for the faint of hear that is for sure haha.

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#61993 - 12/16/11 04:18 AM Re: Best Gunks 5.9's without *** [Re: jakedatc]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1014
Loc: Newtown, CT
Protorsilex. Really good climbing. Solid for the grade and probably R in a spot or two.

Good Friday Climb in the nears is a far better climb then its three star neighbor

Grim Ace Face is three pitches of 5.9 adventure

Three Vultures has some good varied climbing

Agree with Keep on Struttin. Just as good as any three star 5.9. Great rock, great moves, great position and very solid for the grade, whats not to like.

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