I'm joining in on the anchor thread. Kinda new to Gunks.com, though I've been climbing here since early 90's. Just went back and read to some of the early pages and want to add info and ask questions.
First off - I'm a guide named Jason(previously mentioned in this thread?). The only cable anchor I have ever put up is on top of No Picnic. It is a cable anchor encased in thick clear hosing with 4 crosby clamps and 2 quicklinks.(I used to direct and repair ropes courses) I did so only after speaking with Frank and other climbers as to their thoughts. My reason for doing so was that the webbing anchors were being removed from it at an average of at least 3 times per season. When they were removed, people were rapping off of the tree and girdling it. I did this to save the tree. Now people back it up with the occasional sling and it doesn't get removed, thereby saving the tree. I'm okay with that.
I'm curious to know your thoughts on this anchor. I'm serious about wanting feedback. I have a few more of these anchors ready to be used if the occasion should arise. They are not cheap and I am happy to install them but only to help protect the environment (trees). I'm also happy to maintain them.
I am NOT a fan of the cable anchor that was installed on Betty. I know this to be strong enough for a rap, but it's so manky looking to the untrained eye and it shreds skin, rope and webbing with it's exposed cable ends that, I believe, it does more harm than good! The installer of this anchor had good intentions but, IMHO, left behind something that we can learn from and most people are afraid to use. If it is decided a good idea, I'm willing to replace that anchor with my own setup like the one on No Picnic.
As stated in a different thread, I added a pin to Son of Easy O a year or two ago and removed a couple of tri-cams and perhaps an old pin. I'd like to remove the old tri-cams and dead cam garbage, but I'm confused as to how. Any ideas? My next task, when I remember to bring it, is to add a quicklink to that new pin on the right and redo the webbing.
I was also considering completely removing the pin in the rooves on the second pitch on SOEO as it's tweaked out to the side and compromised and completely unnecessary with modern gear. Thoughts?
Any thoughts on other anchors that need help?
Another concern that I have is the replacement of individual pitons like the ones on Classic that should be replaced very soon. The second pin on that route is a cause for concern as I question whether it can be banged out without breaking the exposed section completely off. Thoughts? Is there a gear placement that I never noticed rendering that piton useless? Any other pins that help to maintain the route's protection rating need replacing? Anybody have pins to donate?