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#62012 - 12/17/11 05:23 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: eparker_s]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
Nice, Good job.

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#62015 - 12/17/11 04:56 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: eparker_s]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2470
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Originally Posted By: eparker_s
bring a sling next time you do suppers ready...


...and remove it when you're done top-roping.

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#62018 - 12/18/11 07:41 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: rg@ofmc]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Parker....you're only half correct. I'm also hugging a nice bottle of Petron tequila smile

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#62021 - 12/19/11 02:51 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: eparker_s]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Nicely done!

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#62028 - 12/19/11 04:47 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: chip]
KathyS Offline
member

Registered: 01/10/08
Posts: 196
Loc: NY, USA
I'm sure that tree would thank you if it could speak.

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#62396 - 01/23/12 09:05 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: KathyS]
eparker_s Offline
journeyman

Registered: 03/16/11
Posts: 50
I'm reminded of a song:
"If trees could walk, they'd stomp the hell, out of lumberjacks. If trees could walk."

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#64683 - 05/05/12 02:46 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: eparker_s]
jhurwitz Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/04/12
Posts: 14
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
I'm joining in on the anchor thread. Kinda new to Gunks.com, though I've been climbing here since early 90's. Just went back and read to some of the early pages and want to add info and ask questions.

First off - I'm a guide named Jason(previously mentioned in this thread?). The only cable anchor I have ever put up is on top of No Picnic. It is a cable anchor encased in thick clear hosing with 4 crosby clamps and 2 quicklinks.(I used to direct and repair ropes courses) I did so only after speaking with Frank and other climbers as to their thoughts. My reason for doing so was that the webbing anchors were being removed from it at an average of at least 3 times per season. When they were removed, people were rapping off of the tree and girdling it. I did this to save the tree. Now people back it up with the occasional sling and it doesn't get removed, thereby saving the tree. I'm okay with that.

I'm curious to know your thoughts on this anchor. I'm serious about wanting feedback. I have a few more of these anchors ready to be used if the occasion should arise. They are not cheap and I am happy to install them but only to help protect the environment (trees). I'm also happy to maintain them.

I am NOT a fan of the cable anchor that was installed on Betty. I know this to be strong enough for a rap, but it's so manky looking to the untrained eye and it shreds skin, rope and webbing with it's exposed cable ends that, I believe, it does more harm than good! The installer of this anchor had good intentions but, IMHO, left behind something that we can learn from and most people are afraid to use. If it is decided a good idea, I'm willing to replace that anchor with my own setup like the one on No Picnic.

As stated in a different thread, I added a pin to Son of Easy O a year or two ago and removed a couple of tri-cams and perhaps an old pin. I'd like to remove the old tri-cams and dead cam garbage, but I'm confused as to how. Any ideas? My next task, when I remember to bring it, is to add a quicklink to that new pin on the right and redo the webbing.

I was also considering completely removing the pin in the rooves on the second pitch on SOEO as it's tweaked out to the side and compromised and completely unnecessary with modern gear. Thoughts?

Any thoughts on other anchors that need help?

Another concern that I have is the replacement of individual pitons like the ones on Classic that should be replaced very soon. The second pin on that route is a cause for concern as I question whether it can be banged out without breaking the exposed section completely off. Thoughts? Is there a gear placement that I never noticed rendering that piton useless? Any other pins that help to maintain the route's protection rating need replacing? Anybody have pins to donate?

-Jason

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#64684 - 05/05/12 03:06 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: jhurwitz]
TrappDyke Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/10/09
Posts: 80
Thanks for your contributions Jason. Your cable is just fine. If you wanted to remove some unecessary pins I think M.F., Birdland, and Coex would be fine candidates. If the pin on Classic becomes totally worthless a stick-clip could be left at the base.

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#64686 - 05/05/12 04:03 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: TrappDyke]
jhurwitz Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/04/12
Posts: 14
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Thank you TrappDyke. I'm not really looking to remove just any pin that seems unnecessary as I'm much more interested in replacing pins that are trashed and maintain a protection rating. Perhaps I misrepresented my intentions. Sorry about that.

The one on SOEO was at a bad angle the last time I looked at it. Don't want anyone to clip a shitty pin thinking it's a Gunks bolt! It doesn't need to be replaced as it's an awesome horizontal and easily protected with modern gear. I'm not so sure about the pins on Classic. They might actually need replacing instead of removal to maintain the PG rating.

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#64687 - 05/05/12 11:46 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: jhurwitz]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
No Picnic can be walked off in less than a minute. (Just sayin')

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