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#62062 - 12/22/11 01:24 AM Re: Guess the route [Re: cfrac]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Lower PLatte Clove it is.

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#62067 - 12/22/11 01:06 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: GOclimb]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 714
Loc: NYC
Originally Posted By: GOclimb
Originally Posted By: rg@ofmc
Three Vultures? (Gabe's pic)


Nope. Wow, I'm excited I finally have a pic that's not recognized within five minutes!

GO


Gabe, are you sure your pic isn't Three Vultures?? I would have put money on it! After I saw your post saying it wasn't Three Vultures, I went and looked at one of my own pictures to confirm. The horn to the climber's left and the notch in the overhang just above are very distinctive.

Are you thinking Amber Waves (further left) or Face to Face (further right)?
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#62068 - 12/22/11 01:52 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: SethG]
cfrac Offline
addict

Registered: 04/26/08
Posts: 462
Originally Posted By: SethG
Originally Posted By: GOclimb
Originally Posted By: rg@ofmc
Three Vultures? (Gabe's pic)


Nope. Wow, I'm excited I finally have a pic that's not recognized within five minutes!

GO


Gabe, are you sure your pic isn't Three Vultures?? I would have put money on it! After I saw your post saying it wasn't Three Vultures, I went and looked at one of my own pictures to confirm. The horn to the climber's left and the notch in the overhang just above are very distinctive.

Are you thinking Amber Waves (further left) or Face to Face (further right)?


It took me several years to find Face to Face, don't they (3 Vultures) share some terrain? If the climber in the picture goes straight up I think they enter the crux of Face to Face, if they go right it's 3 Vultures. That's my memory of it without a guidebook.
Speaking of Face to Face I think that is 2nd most exposed and exciting 10 in the Trapps after ED.

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#62071 - 12/22/11 03:11 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: cfrac]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 714
Loc: NYC
They do cross each other-- and I confess I've never climbed Face to Face. But the photo is of the crux of Three Vultures' 2d pitch, which is totally distinct from the Face to Face 5.9 2d pitch crux, which is at the same height, further to the right.
_________________________
It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

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#62072 - 12/22/11 03:20 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: cfrac]
fotovult Offline
member

Registered: 09/01/05
Posts: 142
Loc: ny
Took me a few tries too - the dick guide is a bit misleading on where to go for F2F, directing the climber to some phantom tree ledge, which if it is the one I repeatedly ended up at hides the crux crack with an arete.

Once you're on it the route just keeps giving, from a super exciting traverse pitch to heads-up climbing through the crux all the way to the top.

Exposed and exciting for sure, I felt it deserves the "not for new 10 leaders" even more than Amber.
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#62073 - 12/22/11 03:45 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: fotovult]
chip Online   content
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2679
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
I found Face to Face fairly exciting to follow when the leader jamed and overcamed his pro on the traverse. I really didn't have the option to hang on the rope, since it is so overhanging, and flamed out just after finally getting the cam out. I took the big swing, expecting to swing back to the rock, and instead found myself hopelessly hanging a good 8-10 feet away. An interesting day, for sure.

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#62076 - 12/22/11 04:26 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: chip]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
Now that you guys mention it, Scott & I have spent quality time wandering the GT looking for P3 Face to Face. "Phantom tree ledge" - exactly. MP's entry isn't all that helpful either. We usually took something like Erect Direction P1 to the GT, then walked over - I'm guessing using a different first pitch is a common strategyv - so landmarks of where to start on the GT would be a particularly good addition.

If ya'll could add clarifying comments here, I'd happily add them to the route description ....

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/face-to-face/106089261

Grazi,
Julie

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#62077 - 12/22/11 04:41 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: Julie]
fotovult Offline
member

Registered: 09/01/05
Posts: 142
Loc: ny
I've never done P1 - but from ED P1 head left to the start of Amber Waves (big blocky stack).

I remember heading right after the block across the face, and passing (?) the 3 vultures wide traverse crack to the thinner (takes .75ish) traverse crack to the corner. Pretty obvious and looks harder than it is. Pumpy and total hero hang photo opp at the end.

Head a little more right over to a cramped belay stance and bring up 2nd. Straight up I think is 3V, a mistake I previously made; for F2F head back slightly up and left from belay around the corner you'll clearly see the crux crack. You won't find much gear in the crack, so place the gear under the crack thoughtfully - if you peel you may catch an ankle and there is some ledgy terrain if I remember.

Once through the crack continue up and right through some pretty exciting and slightly run-out terrain arriving below a roofy section. I had a #4 on me from Erect Direction and placed it here, then pulled roof to the left and up to the top.

Such a sweet pitch, one of the finer 10s in the gunks.
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www.chrisvultaggio.com

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#62078 - 12/22/11 05:02 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: fotovult]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2472
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
In view of where the ropes are running, it's Three Vultures. The climber is, however, still in position to head up into the crux of Face to Face.

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#62083 - 12/22/11 06:22 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: rg@ofmc]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
So, I think I know what you mean by the big blocky stack -- basically the last thing before you get further left to Andrew -- and you head up them from the right side of the stack? If I remember that looked easy, but we had no idea after that. And it looked way harder, so that makes sense.

Sounds like a lot of traversing?

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