Have some of the footholds on easy routes in the Gunks gotten significantly polished since 15 years ago? or 30 years ago? or 60 years?

I was away from climbing for about 15 years, now back working my way thru the grades in the Gunks, and a new thing is that I'm hearing claims that the rock is "polished".

Like on Squiggles (5.4) I was climbing the "ramp" just under lip, and somebody called up and said like "that's gotten pretty polished nowadays". Actually it seemed slippery enough 15 years ago.

And I've been climbing easy routes on limestone in other places, so I've felt serious polish (like marble), even really serious polish (like porcelain).

So I developed an alternate theory that what's really changed in the last 15 years in the Gunks is lots more indoor gym climbers encountering easy outdoor routes, and not knowing what to do when they look down and can't find any colored plastic.

But maybe there's some actual polishing in the Gunks?

other candidates for "polished rock" claims:
* Frog's Head
* Jacob's Ladder

What's the real truth here?
What are some climbs where it's easier to find the polish?

Ken

First moves on Laurel. People get on the thing right out of the dirt and wear down the first few foot holds. Since that is a popular noobie and guided spot it doesn't help. people who don't know better walk around on the carriage road waiting their turn then climb without cleaning their shoes off.

Fingerlocks is pretty polished along the crack.

Yeah I was goign to say Laurel too. That first good foothold is round and smooth now. Actually, i think it's probably more from hands then feet, but what do I know

Some of the routes in the Gunks definitely have some polish from overuse, but only a few of the most popular climbs, in my experience. You hit on the most egregious examples already: Laurel and Frog's Head.

I think Laurel is a waste of time anyway, certainly not worth waiting for and not worth two stars. The jam-crack at the end, unusual for the Gunks, almost redeems it. But you don't need to jam it for more than one move so it's sort of contrived.

Last time I did Frog's Head I was very conscious of how slippery it was up to the crux bulge and it detracted from the experience to some degree.

Never Never Land is super-polished and I like to think it is much harder because of the polish at the crux. I like to think this in order to excuse my miserable performance on the climb last summer.

I find the streak of polish on Son of Easy O to be visually unappealing, but last time I climbed the route I didn't think the polish made the climb worse in any appreciable way.

The City Lights crux is also quite polished but again I don't think it hurts the climb (yet).

There are lots of crux foothold pebbles that have become somewhat polished-- I'm thinking of Birdland & Friends and Lovers... when I see one of these pebbles I worry I'll slip right off but it hasn't happened yet.

There is nothing on your hands that is that abrasive though. And if it was your hands then the whole route would be like that and it's not. i see it all the time at Parking lot wall at Rumney too. gumbys walk around in the dirt and mud and then try to get on the wall.. they usually slip and grind the rock. you'll see tons of routes with the first few foot holds always covered in dirt.

seth I didn't think the bottom of SoEO was that bad either.

never never land has zero appeal to me haha slab, polished.. no thanks. give me a freakin' roof

Come to think of it the Roseland traverse is the one I hear the most complaints about, but when I led it I didn't think the friction was bad.

I didn't think the traverse was that bad.. the corner was slick in spots. my gf popped off a few times following it and she's good at that sort of thing.

i do make sure my shoes are clean for the Directissima and Nice Crack Climb starts. they aren't in the same league as the others but you don't want to slip on a layback like that.

Let's not forget that some of the polish (Never Never Land, Roseland) is from glaciation, not climberation, but yes Jake, your logic about hands versus feet does seem to make sense.

Start of Hyjek's Horror has become noticably more polished over the last 20 years.

Another candidate may be the start block below the first ledge of the Gory Thumb area.

TS

I'm sure that modern rubber on polished rock is still better than mountain boots were when the rock was untouched.