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#63605 - 04/05/12 05:36 PM Re: Accident on MF today [Re: donald perry]
Adrian Offline
journeyman

Registered: 03/12/09
Posts: 73
Nutjob.

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#63607 - 04/05/12 06:00 PM Re: Accident on MF today [Re: donald perry]
Nick Weinberg Offline
stranger

Registered: 06/29/10
Posts: 10
Loc: Albany, NY
Ian,

He had gear on the direct variation to the left of and in between the two cruxes on MF. He then traversed right onto the normal MF route in between the cruxes. He may have placed another piece before getting onto the normal route. He then climbed/aided through the second MF crux with a nut that was not clipped, so from where he fell, which was above the second crux, his last clipped piece of gear was a ways down and to the left. My partner, who was above him, thought his leg got caught on the rope, but his leg may have been caught on a sling, or a feature in the rock, since he did fall over the prominent left-facing MF corner. Either way he got flipped upside down with a lot of force due to the length of the fall, and I think the fact that his gear was off to the side contributed to this type of fall. If that nut had been clipped he would not have fallen nearly as far, and would likely not have been flipped since his gear would have been directly below him.

Again, I don't want to place blame or judge here. Most of us, myself included, have probably made lots of mistakes while climbing over the years that could have ended in disaster. Instead, I'd rather systematically evaluate what happened to help make climbing safer, along the lines of the Accidents in North American Mountaineering reports.

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#63608 - 04/05/12 06:15 PM Re: Accident on MF today [Re: Nick Weinberg]
fear Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/27/03
Posts: 221
Loc: New England
Thanks Nick.

Isn't there a big 'ol pin right before that second crux? I can't remember if it's to the left or right but I do remember clipping something iron. Maybe he just missed that?

So he fell from above the second pitch crux roof all the way past the first crux corner? Jeebus!

Any word on how he's doing?

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#63609 - 04/05/12 06:27 PM Re: Accident on MF today [Re: fear]
retroscree Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Originally Posted By: fear
So he fell from above the second pitch crux roof all the way past the first crux corner? Jeebus!

I thought we were talking about the second crux on the first pitch - the sequential bulge that ends when you step left to the chains.

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#63610 - 04/05/12 06:29 PM Re: Accident on MF today [Re: fear]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
Nick, it sounds like it's still unclear: did he fall from the crux on the second pitch, or the second crux on the first pitch?

Two more questions, if you will or if you even know this much: first, about the climber: did he seem to be aware of the possible hazards of his position? From what was said above, it sounds like he knew he was at the extent of his climbing ability, since he pulled on gear; but did he know he was off-route? did he know how far above the last piece he was? did he know he'd not clipped the last nut?

And second, was his belayer helping him to be aware of his position and gear and leg/rope interactions?

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#63611 - 04/05/12 06:41 PM Re: Accident on MF today [Re: JordanF]
MaxLasky Offline
stranger

Registered: 04/05/12
Posts: 7
Jordan, Corey was wearing a BD Half Dome helmet.

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#63612 - 04/05/12 06:54 PM Re: Accident on MF today [Re: ianmanger]
MaxLasky Offline
stranger

Registered: 04/05/12
Posts: 7
Ian, Corey aided through the second crux after several attempts and after taking 2 small falls. Finally, with the advice of the climbing party to the left of us, Corey aided through the crux and pulled above it. Unfortunately he did not clip the nut he had used as a ladder. At this point the piece of gear that he had been hanging off while working the crux was about 10 feet below as he was working up and to the left of the crux (where the fixed chains are) . As he fell he was pendulumed upside down and the back of his head was first to make impact with the rock. He made contact with the rock slightly above and to the right of the first crux.

Like I said, I dont think he had the rope wrapped around his leg which is something that really scares me.

Max

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#63613 - 04/05/12 07:13 PM Re: Accident on MF today [Re: MaxLasky]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
Max, thanks. That seems consistent with Nick's description. This was all on the 1st pitch. He seems to have fallen just before the climbing eases off and you step left to the chains. A fall of 25ft would put one close to the 1st crux roof i.e 10-12ft above the last piece or so with attentive belay and is consistent with that description IIRC. The gear he fell on was placed while he worked the section above the roof, not at the roof itself if I understand this correctly. So no suggestion that gear failed, just failed to clip? Thats very distressing. again, speedy recovery to your friend.

be safe out there.
ian


Originally Posted By: MaxLasky
Ian, Corey aided through the second crux after several attempts and after taking 2 small falls. Finally, with the advice of the climbing party to the left of us, Corey aided through the crux and pulled above it. Unfortunately he did not clip the nut he had used as a ladder. At this point the piece of gear that he had been hanging off while working the crux was about 10 feet below as he was working up and to the left of the crux (where the fixed chains are) . As he fell he was pendulumed upside down and the back of his head was first to make impact with the rock. He made contact with the rock slightly above and to the right of the first crux.

Like I said, I dont think he had the rope wrapped around his leg which is something that really scares me.

Max


Edited by ianmanger (04/05/12 07:14 PM)
Edit Reason: clarity

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#63615 - 04/05/12 07:30 PM Re: Accident on MF today [Re: donald perry]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1536
Loc: New Jersey
.


Edited by donald perry (04/06/12 09:53 AM)
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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#63616 - 04/05/12 07:31 PM Re: Accident on MF today [Re: donald perry]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1536
Loc: New Jersey
.


Edited by donald perry (04/05/12 09:03 PM)
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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