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#63553 - 04/04/12 07:47 PM Re: Accident on MF today [Re: Bill]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
Originally Posted By: Bill
Thoughts and prayers for the injured climber. Kudos to Nick and others who assisted in the response. If the GCC were to do a special fund raise for needed equipment for the rescue boxes I would be willing to contribute.


Same thoughts & kudos here. I've been needing to contribute since last summer, just wanted to do something that was specifically needed. Sounds like C collars might be it.

Nick or Metal -- was it a standard climbing helmet?

Something else that is not said enough: kudos to Dick & the trail crew. I'm fairly sure the new trails have made rescues a bit easier and more secure.

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#63555 - 04/04/12 09:34 PM Re: Accident on MF today [Re: Julie]
pitfall Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/01/00
Posts: 1165
Loc: Albany
Another key point:
It helps to have an ER doc on the climb right next to you if something like this should happen. Nice job Nick.
_________________________

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#63556 - 04/04/12 09:50 PM Re: Accident on MF today [Re: pitfall]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 709
Loc: NYC
I've deleted what I originally wrote, thought better of it.

The descriptions have been vivid and helpful. My prayers are with this person.


Edited by SethG (04/05/12 02:10 AM)
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It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

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#63558 - 04/05/12 01:08 AM Re: Accident on MF today [Re: SethG]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
Seth, I was reading that he fell juuuust below the chains?

Any updates on his condition would be appreciated.

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#63560 - 04/05/12 01:23 AM Re: Accident on MF today [Re: Nick Weinberg]
MetalDemon Offline
stranger

Registered: 06/22/10
Posts: 6
Loc: NY
Originally Posted By: Nick Weinberg
I saw the whole thing unfold, as we were right next to him on Birdie Party, and we helped secure and evac him. With all due respect to the party involved, I would like to re-inforce several learning points here. I will try not to be too judgmental here, and instead I would like to focus on recognizing errors, avoidance, and in general, safer climbing.

The climber, from what I understood was relatively new to trad climbing, and got on MF. He got off route onto the 5.10R variation, got pumped, fell a couple of times hurting his ankle, then started working the second crux of MF, with his last piece over to the left on the variation. He got more pumped and frazzled. He aided through the second crux with a nut but did not clip the nut. He was concerned about leaving gear, and I think felt rushed because he had to go to work. He cleared the second crux and kept climbing up through jugs, but then fell about 25 feet. I beleive since his last piece was down to the left, the rope caught his leg. He was violently flipped upside down hitting the back of his head on the rock, knocked unconscious, and then hanging upside down. It was a horrible fall that I will never forget.

The main take home points I found were:

1) Its always better to bail, leave gear, or hurt your ego than to end up in the hospital.
2) When you get pumped and frazzled, better to stop, place gear, and/or lower, when you are above your climbing limit.
3) Nevel let the rope run behind your leg if you are in a situation in which you might fall. The key part of this accident was that the climber was flipped upside down, hitting his head.
4) Wear a helmet that protects your whole cranium, that will shatter on impact - not the hard-hat type.

Oh yeah, and as an aside, the preserve should invest in some new high quality C-collars to keep in the rescue box. The one we got was old, broken and dysfunctional. I will see if I can donate some from where I work.....

Also, everyone did a great job with a challenging rescue effort.


I agree 100% with this.

I talked today to some folk who saw him fall at a more direct angle than me, they said it was semi obvious to them he was going to fall violently.
His helmet was a lighter weight plastic climbing helmet with no padding what soever in the back of the head. In the back there was a chin strap tightener circle that at best provided no protection.
I too would like info on his current condition, during his evac I noted he thought he was still climbing... hard images to bury, closure would be nice.


Edited by MetalDemon (04/05/12 01:28 AM)
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#63561 - 04/05/12 01:30 AM Re: Accident on MF today [Re: MetalDemon]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
Metal, be kind to yourself for a bit. These things are hard to be around from any side, I know. Those images don't bury themselves.

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#63564 - 04/05/12 02:31 AM Re: Accident on MF today [Re: Julie]
MaxLasky Offline
stranger

Registered: 04/05/12
Posts: 7
I was belaying my buddy Corey when he fell yesterday on MF. Nick's account of the events is pretty dead on except Im pretty sure the rope was not wrapped around his leg when he took the tragic fall. Either way, its a scary and shocking reminder of how dangerous our sport inherently is.

I am pretty traumatized by seeing one of my good friends get so seriously injured, but am so happy and proud of the efficiency of his evacuation and the amazing competence and helpfulness of nearby climbers and by the Mohonk Preserve rangers.

Lets send Corey tons of love and healing energy and hope for a speedy and full recovery.

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#63572 - 04/05/12 10:13 AM Re: Accident on MF today [Re: Julie]
JordanF Offline
stranger

Registered: 06/06/11
Posts: 17
For all of those who saw the fall and aided in the rescue, it must have been traumatic. I had just set up the belay on Shockley's, and just hearing the poor guy throughout the rescue was enough to snap me out of climbing mode and make me wish I was still on the ground. When my partner reached the belay, we had to take some time to refocus before finishing the climb. Thanks to all who helped, and hopefully someone can pass along his condition.

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#63575 - 04/05/12 10:41 AM Re: Accident on MF today [Re: MetalDemon]
JordanF Offline
stranger

Registered: 06/06/11
Posts: 17
What specific helmet was it, do you know?

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#63581 - 04/05/12 12:12 PM Re: Accident on MF today [Re: Bill]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1530
Loc: New Jersey
moved, changed last paragraph


Edited by donald perry (04/05/12 07:28 PM)
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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