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#63738 - 04/08/12 08:01 PM Loose block on Three Doves..
Daan Offline
stranger

Registered: 08/20/09
Posts: 8
Loc: nyc
.. at least, I think I was on Three Doves!

Started the 2nd pitch at the large tree with fixed gear on the GT ledge, ~ 25' right of Red Pillar. In the middle of that next pitch, there is a traverse to the right that goes past a large block with lots of chalk on it. It nearly came out when I first grabbed it! Think flat-screen TV in size.

I haven't climbed on this part of the wall before, and the route I took was a bit more wandering than the line drawn in the topo of grey dick. But I did have great 5.8++ face climbing above a pin, and ended at some chains at the top. Three Doves?

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#63739 - 04/08/12 09:02 PM Re: Loose block on Three Doves.. [Re: Daan]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
What you describe sounds a lot like Annie Oh!. From the tree with slings & rings, did you go more or less straight up until you traversed right at the loose block? Then traverse back left before reaching chains? That's Annie Oh!.

To climb 3 Doves, you have to head significantly left from the start, towards another ledge with a smaller tree on it. After the hard moves above a pin on 3 Doves, you make a 15' or so traverse right under a huge roof, then up to the chains.

Does this look familiar?

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#63740 - 04/09/12 12:02 AM Re: Loose block on Three Doves.. [Re: Julie]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1536
Loc: New Jersey
That thing is stuck in there and cannot come out if I remember correctly. Maybe you should ask on guess the route to be sure. I am sure other people have found this block too, and when no one was around except for a spotter on the ground, have tried to remove it.


Edited by donald perry (04/09/12 08:32 AM)
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#63750 - 04/09/12 02:03 PM Re: Loose block on Three Doves.. [Re: donald perry]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2679
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
That block scared the poop out of me. I don't think it can come out but sure seems like it will when you first touch it.

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#63763 - 04/09/12 08:09 PM Re: Loose block on Three Doves.. [Re: chip]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2472
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
I've said this in a few places already, but here goes again. I never so much as touch the block on Annie Oh. Maybe the route is 5.9- without using the block, but that's a lot better than what happens if that thing comes off. I'd be especially worried about a tied-in belayer.

And Annie Oh isn't particularly near Three Doves and has no fixed pin on it anywhere, so it is hard to figure out what the OP was doing.

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#63764 - 04/09/12 10:23 PM Re: Loose block on Three Doves.. [Re: rg@ofmc]
socialist1 Offline
member

Registered: 08/05/04
Posts: 147
Loc: New Brunswick, NJ

I dont know if its because I am tall, or that the grade is easy for me, but I think it is not *any* harder staying low and avoiding the block, at least in terms of overall grade. The feet are pretty good.

Hopefully it never goes, and if it does, has no dreadful consequences... I always encourage folks to avoid it.

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#63765 - 04/09/12 10:40 PM Re: Loose block on Three Doves.. [Re: socialist1]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 714
Loc: NYC
I didn't think he was talking about Annie Oh, because of the pin issue. I don't remember a pin on P2 of Annie Oh and RG confirms it.

Daan, if you are still with us, Three Doves and Annie Oh are very different. Three Doves has a thin face move up to the pin and then a couple more thin moves to the overhang near the top of the cliff, where good holds take you to the right-- this is the only place where I can conceive of you finding a loose block-- you then exit through a notch to the chains.

Annie Oh has great moves between edges-- the edges are sometimes attached to blocks that are suspect. It is very different in character that Three Doves, and it ends by moving left to the same chains as Three Doves.
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#63782 - 04/10/12 04:27 PM Re: Loose block on Three Doves.. [Re: SethG]
Daan Offline
stranger

Registered: 08/20/09
Posts: 8
Loc: nyc
Thanks for all the replies. No pics, and fuzzy memory (possibly fixed gear, not a pin?) ... Julie's picture looks a bit familiar, so I'm guessing I was indeed on Annie Oh, and see that the block is well-known.

It just freaked the bejesus out of me when I casually grabbed on to it and it started moving! I ended up moving past it without touching it again, but it sounds like it won't be coming out any time soon.


Edited by Daan (04/10/12 04:29 PM)

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#63797 - 04/10/12 08:51 PM Re: Loose block on Three Doves.. [Re: Daan]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2472
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Fixed gear: last time I was up there, there was a fixed Alien up under the flake that is above the giant detached flake. That Alien was buried and won't be going anywhere soon. That's the only fixed gear though.

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#63798 - 04/10/12 08:58 PM Re: Loose block on Three Doves.. [Re: SethG]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
Somewhat OT, but does that roof block on 3 Doves give anyone else the heebies? What holds that on the cliff? I stuff gear in it after the pin moves, but then as you move right and above it and look at it, there just doesn't seem to be a lot keeping it in place.

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