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#64604 - 05/03/12 08:44 PM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: Doug]
SethG Offline
addict

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 680
Loc: NYC
I have never had a rock dropped on my head on Son of Easy O.

I have had ropes dropped on my head when I was in the middle of leading the first pitch.

Chop that stupid anchor, that's my vote.
_________________________
It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

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#64606 - 05/03/12 10:16 PM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: SethG]
worthrussell Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/11/10
Posts: 90
Loc: NY, Brooklyn
The reason you haven't Seth is because very few people top out. Id prefer rope raining down on me to rock.

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#64607 - 05/03/12 10:16 PM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: worthrussell]
retroscree Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Originally Posted By: worthrussell
Go climb love a good troll but no I'm serious. This is a highly used station and it is unsafe. We can talk all day about topping out and 4th class decent or a 5.2ish traverse but the fact remains that most just don't use it. The way i see it there are 2 options one is to remove all mank pitons and cams and force the top out or create a safe alternative. Not a local I grew up in the Bolton Landing/ Lake George region and spend most of my time climbing in keene Valley. Im not a local climber. I've never bolted a route. What drama do you speak of. This is an internet forum about the Gunks. Is there a better way to discuss issues among climbing masse? Trust me I'm not the first one who has thought about this nor am i the last. where does local consensus matter? Its a private land preserve not State run. What history do you speak of would this be the first bolted achor? C'mon man be real


In light of all that, especially the bolded stuff, you might consider reading the history section in any of William's recent guidebooks and search out posts by Rich Goldstone (rg@ofmc here and rgold on rockclimbing.com) and learn a bit about the history and ethics surrounding fixed anchors and pro in the Gunks before suggesting yet another needless permanent convenience anchor.

If you really want to keep rocks from falling on heads, why not at the top-out bulldoze, terrace, grade, build a concrete wall, asphalt, and add a railing like at the top of Glacier Point in Yosemite?

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#64610 - 05/03/12 11:01 PM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: worthrussell]
Doug Offline
member

Registered: 12/29/06
Posts: 165
Originally Posted By: worthrussell
The reason you haven't Seth is because very few people top out.


I'm not buying that. Like I said, I've seen folks on the climb but don't recall ever seeing anyone rap off from the fixed stuff. I've seen folks top out, and often see a belayer at the top bringing up a second when I am walking by the area on the cliff top. Maybe we are both experiencing confirmation bias. At any rate our anecdotal evidence cancels out.

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#64611 - 05/03/12 11:04 PM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: Doug]
Doug Offline
member

Registered: 12/29/06
Posts: 165
Originally Posted By: Doug
Maybe we are both experiencing confirmation bias. At any rate our anecdotal evidence cancels out.


Since that is unsatisfying, I think I'll call the preserve and suggest they install some turnstiles along the route so we can have a more informed discussion.

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#64613 - 05/03/12 11:28 PM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: Doug]
worthrussell Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/11/10
Posts: 90
Loc: NY, Brooklyn
retroscree my comment about rocks was a rebuttle to Seth G. Both rock and rope rain down with frequency on weekends which is why i avoid the weekends at the gunks. I don't know anything about bulldozing the top and asphalt and all that jazz but it sounds like you and Donlad Perry are on the same page.DP is looking to start some sort of climber coalition. You guys could find private funding and go about this project while simultaneously contacting brain dead insurance agents to cover free soloing a grade down from your lead ability. My only point was that Son of easy O is a high traffic area and that people utilize an unsafe rappel to forgo a topping out and walking off or down climbing 5 easy o. I wanted to see what the general consensus was about installing a fixed rap anchor. I guess you fall on the other side of the debate.

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#64617 - 05/03/12 11:50 PM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: worthrussell]
retroscree Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Originally Posted By: worthrussell
retroscree my comment about rocks was a rebuttle to Seth G. Both rock and rope rain down with frequency on weekends which is why i avoid the weekends at the gunks. I don't know anything about bulldozing the top and asphalt and all that jazz but it sounds like you and Donlad Perry are on the same page.DP is looking to start some sort of climber coalition. You guys could find private funding and go about this project while simultaneously contacting brain dead insurance agents to cover free soloing a grade down from your lead ability.

The key difference is that I like satire and parody and facetiousness...DJP is apparently serious in his suggestion.

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#64622 - 05/04/12 01:09 AM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: retroscree]
worthrussell Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/11/10
Posts: 90
Loc: NY, Brooklyn
touch

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#64623 - 05/04/12 01:12 AM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: worthrussell]
worthrussell Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/11/10
Posts: 90
Loc: NY, Brooklyn
touch'e accented e but i apparently cant copy and paste the accented e.

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#64639 - 05/04/12 11:48 AM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: worthrussell]
stoopid Offline
journeyman

Registered: 10/09/08
Posts: 67
Loc: West Sand Lake, NY
If the rats nest currently above the roofs on Son Of is acceptible, I don't see how removing it and installing streamlined rap anchors makes the situation any worse (ie - why all the resistence?).

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