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#64782 - 05/09/12 08:32 PM Re: Accident on Black Fly today [Re: wivanov]
Rickster Offline
old hand

Registered: 10/16/07
Posts: 853
Loc: Orange Cty, NY
Cordage and climbing web has been coming to shops spooled with these taped splices for decades, probably from the beginning of their use. Though shop staff should be ever vigilant, so should the climber/consumer.

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#64786 - 05/10/12 02:41 AM Re: Accident on Black Fly today [Re: Rickster]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
Well, I sent a PM to Rick to see where/if he had actually heard that a splice was the issue. we'll see when he writes back.

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#64789 - 05/10/12 12:41 PM Re: Accident on Black Fly today [Re: jakedatc]
phlan Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 02/11/00
Posts: 2778
Loc: Gardiner, NY
I recall reading a story from yosemite golden age where Chuck Pratt or Frost or somebody made it half way up Half Dome and discovered one of those splices in the webbing of his swami belt. the swamis being made up of multiple loops around your waist it survived that long without coming apart. maybe this was urban legend, but does anyone else recall that tale? close call I would say...

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#64792 - 05/10/12 03:43 PM Re: Accident on Black Fly today [Re: phlan]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 713
Loc: NYC
I hope Rick gets back to you Jake. He really ought to clarify that post. I don't intend to register just to fight with a bunch of people in Kentucky, but I think in their hostile response to you they are a little blinded by their loyalty to one of their own.

Of course they also can't be expected to know the history of the Gunks so they don't know how silly it is to say he was likely referring to some other fatality, which we on this forum all know never happened.
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#64793 - 05/10/12 10:35 PM Re: Accident on Black Fly today [Re: jakedatc]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Originally Posted By: jakedatc
Well, I sent a PM to Rick to see where/if he had actually heard that a splice was the issue. we'll see when he writes back.


I heard via an admittedly non-direct source, that there was no part of the anchor left atop the route. To me that says "no tape splice".

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#64794 - 05/10/12 11:20 PM Re: Accident on Black Fly today [Re: Mike Rawdon]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1530
Loc: New Jersey
Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
Originally Posted By: jakedatc
Well, I sent a PM to Rick to see where/if he had actually heard that a splice was the issue. we'll see when he writes back.


I heard via an admittedly non-direct source, that there was no part of the anchor left atop the route. To me that says "no tape splice".


around a tree?
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The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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#64801 - 05/11/12 01:23 PM Re: Accident on Black Fly today [Re: donald perry]
quanto_the_mad Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/14/02
Posts: 2628
Loc: brooklyn
Even if there was a splice, the anchor might still hold body weight. Not the splice itself, but because it was girth hitched to two other slings, the friction of those two knots would hold some weight on the single strand between the knots. Hard to say how long it would hold, but I could see it holding for a while before the free end slipped through.

If they had girth-hitched the slings to the tree, and the failure happened behind the tree, it would pull down both ends leaving nothing up top.

I'm not saying that's what happened as I've heard nothing about it.
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#64921 - 05/18/12 09:01 PM Re: Accident on Black Fly today [Re: quanto_the_mad]
Em Cos Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/24/11
Posts: 2
Is there any update on the cause of this accident? So far all I've seen on the various forums is guesses based on what little information we've heard so far, but I may have missed something. Is there an investigation taking place?

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#64932 - 05/20/12 03:24 AM Re: Accident on Black Fly today [Re: Em Cos]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1530
Loc: New Jersey
http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=2581260;page=1;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

Quote:
Re: [wonderwoman] Gunks Accident: Black Fly [In reply to]
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The rangers told Mitch that there were no tears in the slings.
In other words the slings were entirely intact.
There is a large tree to the (climber's) right of the climb. You need a long cordalette to sling the tree.

THe rangers thought that the TR was set up by somehow joining 5-6 slings together and wrapping them around the tree. Somehow, the system failed.

Slings not properly joined? Slings not clipped with a locking biner?


(This post was edited by gblauer on Apr 30, 2012, 6:50 PM)
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The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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