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#64829 - 05/14/12 11:02 PM Re: MILLBROOK and THE GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE ETC [Re: oenophore]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1494
Loc: New Jersey
Originally Posted By: oenophore
Originally Posted By: donald perry
Pictures above have embedded links to videos.
The climbing is good but the cinematography could be better


Your right I have to do it again ... those are just the parts that did not get deleted.

However, then again I am surprised that you say this. Previously you said you would rather shots be more candid. What happened?

Do you think there should be music, or just no talking, or something else? The thing about music is, everyone has their own tastes, so maybe just the rooster is OK?


Edited by donald perry (05/14/12 11:13 PM)
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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#64847 - 05/15/12 05:49 PM Re: MILLBROOK and THE GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE ETC [Re: donald perry]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2674
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Looks a wee bit run-out. Nice piece of rock there and nice climbing, Donald.

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#64850 - 05/15/12 09:41 PM Re: MILLBROOK and THE GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE ETC [Re: chip]
TARGHEE Offline
newbie

Registered: 06/30/00
Posts: 47
Loc: NYC
I'll second that; great footage Don. And impressive climbing on hallowed ground. That's a section of rock I was pretty sure I would never see up close in person

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#64860 - 05/16/12 12:27 AM Re: MILLBROOK and THE GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE ETC [Re: johnm]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1494
Loc: New Jersey


Thanks, guys.

Originally Posted By: chip
Looks a wee bit run-out. Nice piece of rock there and nice climbing, Donald.


I want to add that the type of climbing, where you lead from the ground up without beta, is not something you just go do, as it might appear in these videos. There is no place to put protection, if you fall you can get seriously hurt, to say the least. You do not have a lot of options when there is no gear, and that's the way these two pitches were originally done.

"Well then [someone might say], drill some bolts, the climb needs it to make it safe for the people." But here there is safety, but it is not found in bolts it is found in the climber. The safety is in knowing your abilities as your strengths decrease, knowing how to read the rock, knowing how to fall, knowing when you will fall, knowing your ego, and knowing where you came from.

If you can really know these things on the easier climbs you remember, and eliminate falls as a skill you develop, then you can work up into harder climbing. But you have to know how to stay under your limits. It takes years of patients learning lessons on other climbs to perfect this margin. Until then things will not always be as they first appear. In other words these climbs have surprises for climbers who have not first gone through all the necessary schooling. Here there are many surprises for climbers who have not completed all the homework and cheated their way through tests. Yes, you may be able to get away without a well grounded education, but not for long. A good professor will catch his cheaters, expel them, and banish them from these schools of learning forever. And you never learn everything.

The point I am making is not to be saying these type of climbs, climbs like Scary Area, separate the men from the boys. What I am saying is these climbs can be safer and easy if you have done your homework. Nevertheless, this is rock-climbing; it is not safe, it's very wild and dangerous in its natural form, no matter how skilled you are. This is not the place for the unlearned and the foolish; proceed only with the utter most fear and reverence.
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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#64862 - 05/16/12 12:56 AM Re: MILLBROOK and THE GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE ETC [Re: donald perry]
Frank Florence Offline
addict

Registered: 01/05/00
Posts: 528
Loc: moved to Bend
Good for you, Donald. That's a nice powerglide over the roof in the second of the pair of embedded videos. Tough climbing.

But where's your fashion sense? Camo pants and bright red shoes? Are we low visual impact or not?

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#64870 - 05/16/12 11:14 AM Re: MILLBROOK and THE GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE ETC [Re: donald perry]
talus Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1259
"Well then [someone might say], drill some bolts, the climb needs it to make it safe for the people." But here there is safety, but it is not found in bolts it is found in the climber. The safety is in knowing your abilities as your strengths decrease, knowing how to read the rock, knowing how to fall, knowing when you will fall, knowing your ego, and knowing where you came from."

That's right! trapp masters need not apply
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John Okner Photography

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#64872 - 05/16/12 01:53 PM Re: MILLBROOK and THE GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE ETC [Re: talus]
SethG Offline
addict

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 680
Loc: NYC
I dig the pants and the footwear.

I don't think I could get away with it, but it works for you, Don.

Those runouts, however, scare the crap out of me.
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It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

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#64882 - 05/16/12 04:40 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: RangerRob]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1494
Loc: New Jersey
Originally Posted By: SethG
Those runouts, however, scare the crap out of me.


If you are going to have a success there has to be the following factors at work:

Destination: Where is the destination? This has to do with a vision and knowing where you are going and knowing where you are. This involves developing a plan and synchronizing your strategic Intent for success. Now note this is not the top of the climb! The destination is within you, to be developing good health and strength, learning how to down climb and how to reduce or avoid falls, that is understanding yourself and the climb you are on. Learning how to get the proper protection on each climb you are on. You will find that your experiences on one climb, what you will learn will help you on the next climb and so on. And if you have the right protocol the climbing will take care of itself. In this concept flashing is not recognized. On a climb like cobra crack you would have it sewn up. You do not focuses on the top, you need to focus on where you are right now one small step at a time past the top of the climb you are on right now. The destination is development. And if you are just learning to climb, there is no need to be taking falls for a long long time, especially if you are learning to lead.

Development: You always need to remain teachable, always learning and evolving as you go. If you are not ready to learn, if you become hard headed and not ready to test out new ideas, if you become stagnant you will still learn but now it will be the hard way. You have to have some fear, reverence and good respect for your partners, your mentors and the climb … what you are getting yourself into.

Disciple: This is a key and an aspect that you can count on that you will need the most work on. It has to do with making sure you prioritize and execute on what you're trying to do. It's easy to have a vision and a goal to get to the top; it's another thing to have a focused disciple to execute it. And here I am talking about exercise, safety first not moving past poor or untested [experientially or physically] protection and taking the time for planning. This has to do with and ethics that put us in a place where certain principles are followed.

Determination: This is the most important over all. However, this needs to be tempered with patients. You can only go so fast and you cannot go any faster than your development. You need to be able to keep this in check and foremost be determined toward development. In other words your determination foremost needs to be that you will come away from each climb with having learned something as well as getting a good workout mentally and physically so you can hang out for longer periods of time and place gear until sometimes you will need to down climb, or if you are experienced, lower off. It does not have to do with pushing your way up climbs till you fall off. In that case none of this means anything. That has nothing to do with the art of *rock* climbing.
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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#64891 - 05/16/12 09:59 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: donald perry]
SethG Offline
addict

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 680
Loc: NYC
I find it helps, when I read passages like the above, to pretend it is Yoda speaking. Sometimes it is fun and aids in the suspension of disbelief to rearrange the words to make them even more Yodaesque.

Determination: most important over all, this is.
_________________________
It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

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#64895 - 05/17/12 06:13 AM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: SethG]
retroscree Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Originally Posted By: SethG
I find it helps, when I read passages like the above, to pretend it is Yoda speaking. Sometimes it is fun and aids in the suspension of disbelief to rearrange the words to make them even more Yodaesque.

Determination: most important over all, this is.

Hmm. I thought I was merely lacking a gibberish-to-English dictionary.

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