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#64905 - 05/17/12 02:24 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: retroscree]
donald perry Offline
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Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1494
Loc: New Jersey
Originally Posted By: retroscree
Originally Posted By: SethG
I find it helps, when I read passages like the above, to pretend it is Yoda speaking. Sometimes it is fun and aids in the suspension of disbelief to rearrange the words to make them even more Yodaesque.

Determination: most important over all, this is.

Hmm. I thought I was merely lacking a gibberish-to-English dictionary.


Retroscree, I need help with video if you are interested ... send me a im. thanks djp
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The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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#64939 - 05/20/12 04:25 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: RangerRob]
donald perry Offline
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Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1494
Loc: New Jersey
Redirectionalism 5th Pitch 5.11

The bottom picture has a video linkup










Edited by donald perry (05/20/12 07:49 PM)
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The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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#64941 - 05/20/12 09:35 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: donald perry]
oenophore Online   confused
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/01
Posts: 5934
Loc: 212 land
A cliffhanger there, no pun intended.
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#65024 - 05/27/12 05:58 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: RangerRob]
donald perry Offline
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Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1494
Loc: New Jersey
error


Edited by donald perry (05/27/12 06:59 PM)
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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#65026 - 05/27/12 07:11 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: donald perry]
donald perry Offline
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Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1494
Loc: New Jersey
Originally Posted By: donald perry
I looked at Sudden Impact. Swain says it has a 25' runout and Williams says nothing. It looks to me like the fall is 25' not the runout, and that there are two of them [two 12' runouts]. The second one, if I am correct, is on small nuts. If I am incorrect then going by Williams the runout should be said to be the whole supposed length of the pitch which is 50'.

Redirectionalism is actually pretty friendly compared to Sudden Impact[.] …

When you get up to the last giant roof … Swain says you turn it at 5.11d, probably only because the lichen is so thick you would need a lawn mower to get through there.



Sudden Impact Beta:

You can get a bomber white .125 tricam at the base of the corner reducing the 15' run-out to around 12.

Above there you can get a near 101% bomber pink .5 tricam up 15', and then you have to run it out another 15'. It would help if they made them with wider inside tracks or 0.020 less wide on the right side since it is right on the edge. Nevertheless expect that it takes at least 10 minutes to get it out with a tool even if you know how to do it.

Concerning running it out another 15', you can also reduce that too and get some tcu placements along the way around some hollow shit, 000 Black Diamond, Wild Country Z4. Body weight has been OK, but in a fall it is anyone's guess if the 60# block can come out.

And then there is an issue with the outside corner below you, it seems possible that a rope could get hung-up. Bring some duct tape. Nevertheless, if your falls are out of the corner right, as they should be, you may not need the tape.

At the top of the corner under the roof you can get the bigger size cams
under 1 1 / 2 ".
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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#65031 - 05/28/12 05:17 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: donald perry]
donald perry Offline
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Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1494
Loc: New Jersey
101%

There is a 25 year history of filing tricams to fit smaller cracks, and this is one of the reasons why camp came out with the black tricam. The pin also has been filed to fit cracks in the past. Filing tricams is not recommended by Camp. So when I say near 101% I mean a category between 99-101. Failure of the pin that sticks out the ends happens as a snap in the pin, the pin does not bend out of the holes on the sides so I am told.

Depending your weight, the white tricam can hold a 12 foot fall, the black maybe 30, and the pink can go forever, unless you flie it in the wrong place.


Edited by donald perry (05/28/12 05:26 PM)
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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#65034 - 05/28/12 10:27 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: donald perry]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4269
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Originally Posted By: donald perry
101%

Failure of the pin that sticks out the ends happens as a snap in the pin, the pin does not bend out of the holes on the sides so I am told.


I don't believe that. The pink Tricam is rated 1.5X stronger in "active" mode than passive. If the steel pin snaps as the failure mode, it wouldn't matter which way you pull it. IMO only snapping of the aluminum end points is consistent with the ratings.

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#65035 - 05/28/12 10:42 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: Mike Rawdon]
donald perry Offline
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Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1494
Loc: New Jersey
Well, yes I am talking about having the sling over the cam as it was designed for. But to get it into the crack an extra few thousands of an inch you need to use a file.

The aluminum end points are what is said to snap first.
So I would not suggest filing those.
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

Top
#65092 - 05/31/12 12:15 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: donald perry]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1494
Loc: New Jersey
Originally Posted By: donald perry
Originally Posted By: SethG
Those runouts, however, scare the crap out of me.


Disciple: This is a key ...


Sorry, I meant discipline.
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

Top
#65101 - 05/31/12 03:15 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: donald perry]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1494
Loc: New Jersey
The pink cam goes in pointing left, and you may have to tap it with a nut tool to set it place. So don't think it's going to be easy once you get up there.
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

Top
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