The pin at the start of Farewell to Arms is extremely corroded and I was nearly able to get it out pulling hard with a shoulder length sling last week. I'm not sure it will come out without falling apart (leaving no space for a replacement), I do that it is unlikely to hold a falling climber. I'm hoping to get some time this week to have a go at it, yank the mank and replace. If somebody beats me to it, that'd be good too.

Joe, if you need a pin, just tell me what size. I still have a a fair number of them and I should have the size/type that's needed. I'll be up there from tomorrow until Friday.

Dana

Joe, your actions will only encourage people to toprope the first few feet of Farewell to Arms.

Is the crack it's in too narrow for anything but a piton?

I didnt think the pin was all that bad. Were you actually able to move the pin by pulling on it? BTW theres a .5 cam placement one step up the birdcage corner that works just fine with a double length sling. Maybe a bit a a swinging fall but the pin seems plenty strong to deal with that.

Even better... bring a haul bag, fill it with 200lbs of rocks, and drop it from level with the pin (where the climber would be... there's no climbing above the pin) on another rope and see what happens.

I'll be sure to mention to the haul bag not to climb above the pin.

Haul bags are notorious for running it out on sketchy ground above bad pins. Crazy luggage!