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#65931 - 07/18/12 02:00 AM best Gunks-like climbing out West
Alex Offline
member

Registered: 08/16/00
Posts: 191
What is the best Gunks-like climbing out West? My own criteria is only that it "feels like Gunks climbing" and is mostly horizontal strata. My suggestions:

Unita Rocks: east of salt Lake, horizontal strata and overhangs, trad and bolts, high elevation.

Owens Gorge: eastside of Sierra, buckets and bolts.

Isolation Canyon: east of Flagstaff, mini-buckets, trad and bolts.

Skaha: British Columbia, nice weather, trad and bolts, lots of edges.

Maple Canyon: south of Salt Lake, all bolts, all cobbles, but the handhold intensive climbing is not unfamiliar to Gunks climbing.

Blackleaf Canyon: central Montana, limestone but with horiontal edges, mostly bolts.

I liked all of these areas. There's probably other canidates. What area out West feels most Gunks-like to you?

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#65932 - 07/18/12 04:20 AM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: Alex]
jason1 Offline
old hand

Registered: 07/25/00
Posts: 841
Loc: moab

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#65933 - 07/18/12 01:04 PM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: jason1]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4269
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Lovers Leap CA is famous for the small horizontal dikes.

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#65934 - 07/18/12 01:43 PM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: Mike Rawdon]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
But the dikes are positive i.e protrude rather than being slots/gunks-horizontals.
That said, Fantasia is just stellar.


Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
Lovers Leap CA is famous for the small horizontal dikes.

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#65935 - 07/18/12 03:47 PM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: Mike Rawdon]
Alex Offline
member

Registered: 08/16/00
Posts: 191
I forgot about Lover's Leap. Some of the classics there do have thar Gunks feel. Great place, the best dike climbing around.

Tamo? I haven't been there. But I like quartzite. Isolation Canyon is Gunks-like quartzite. But I hear the access into Tamo isn't easy.

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#65937 - 07/19/12 01:40 PM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: Alex]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2674
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
I've heard Red Rocks described as "gunks with texture", which seems about right. I'm surprised no one mention Devils Lake.

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#65938 - 07/19/12 05:20 PM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: chip]
Alex Offline
member

Registered: 08/16/00
Posts: 191
Some of the short sport routes, and long ones too, ar Red Rocks have Gunks-like climbing. But in general Red Rocks does not "feel" like Gunks climbing to me. Perhaps because it seems more like face climbing, even though the holds are crisp, than horizontal strata. But I haven't climbed a lot there. Too hot.
Devil's Lake IS Gunks climbing but I don't consider it "out West". Likewise Arkansas climbing (which I'm dying to try) might be a good match but is not really West either.

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#65941 - 07/19/12 06:27 PM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: Alex]
retroscree Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Originally Posted By: Alex
But I haven't climbed a lot there. Too hot.

You've been picking the wrong times to go.

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#65942 - 07/20/12 04:38 AM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: retroscree]
schwortz Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 09/10/03
Posts: 308
red rocks, owens and the leap? really?

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#65943 - 07/20/12 01:18 PM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: schwortz]
retroscree Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Originally Posted By: schwortz
red rocks, owens and the leap? really?

I was thinking the same thing. Red Rocks? Definitely no. Owens??? Nothing could be further from Gunks style climbing.
Can't comment on the Leap; never climbed there.

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