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#65983 - 07/23/12 11:43 PM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: retroscree]
Alex Offline
member

Registered: 08/16/00
Posts: 191
OK, Maple doesn't resemble the Gunks. Its absolutely different. I was just enthralled with the desperate handhold moves on steep and overhanging rock that resembled various Gunks desperate reaches for buckets. For me the essence of Gunks climbing is all about the dramatic handhold moves. Granted the overhangs are the most famous feature of the Gunks, but there are very few overhang areas out West. And, what place out West can match the Gunks for strenuously hanging on while dicking in some trad gear.

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#66000 - 07/24/12 01:43 PM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: Alex]
retroscree Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Originally Posted By: Alex
OK, Maple doesn't resemble the Gunks. Its absolutely different. I was just enthralled with the desperate handhold moves on steep and overhanging rock that resembled various Gunks desperate reaches for buckets. For me the essence of Gunks climbing is all about the dramatic handhold moves. Granted the overhangs are the most famous feature of the Gunks, but there are very few overhang areas out West. And, what place out West can match the Gunks for strenuously hanging on while dicking in some trad gear.

J-tree, Eldo, Lumpy Ridge, The Diamond, Black Canyon, Yosemite, Hayalite Canyon, Devil's Tower, The Sierra Needles, The Tetons, Index,....

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#66007 - 07/24/12 05:43 PM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: retroscree]
Alex Offline
member

Registered: 08/16/00
Posts: 191
Ha Ha, I'll give up on the generalizations.
(My pointless point was that placing gear in steep horizontal strata like the Gunks seems more of a strain on the fingers than on numerous crack and face routes out West.)
But of your list; I've climbed a ton of routes at J-Tree, Lumpy Ridge, Yosemite, Devil's Tower, Sierra Needles- tiring out while futzing with gear was hardly a issue with me. Eldorado, I've climbed a lot there too and yes it is comparable to the Gunks in strenuous gear. Diamond, Black Canyon, Tetons: they're alpine in nature and I've only climbed a couple long routes at each. Hayalite; haven't been there. Index; perhaps, it is steep but have only done a handful of the routes and can't recall anything of note.

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#66015 - 07/24/12 06:23 PM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: Alex]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2674
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
I've not yet put hand to Uinta stone but it looks almost exactly like gunks rock but darker, reddish in color with no outcrops as tall as the Trapps or Millbrook. Don't forget the 30 feet of snow at the base every year. It looks like a gunkie's wet summer dream as long as you don't mind mosquitos and keeping your eyes peeled for real cougar.

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#66017 - 07/24/12 06:46 PM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: chip]
Alex Offline
member

Registered: 08/16/00
Posts: 191
Some of the overhang routes are so Gunk-like. But they use a bit too many bolts where strenuous gear and a bit of running it out would be more old school Gunks.
It was the thunderstorms that chased me out, lightning not cougars.

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#66018 - 07/24/12 07:03 PM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: chip]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2354
Loc: Boston
Red Rocks? No way.

There's an interesting comparison to be made with Eldo.

Overall, I would say the climbing is not that similar between The Gunks and Eldo, but... Many many routes in Eldo have moves on them that, if you changed the rock from red to white would seem exactly like Gunks moves. Particularly on the many direct west-facing routes, where the strata is often just like at the Gunks. You get a good horizontal that takes gear just below a roof. Follow a weakness through the roof, and find positive holds at the lip. Pull hard, rock up over, find gear, and relax.

And the rock, though sandstone rather than quartzite, was baked hard enough in a volcanic zone that parts of it are nearly as compact as quartzite. It's halfway to being metamorphosed into a quartzite conglomerate. I could probably name a dozen routes off the top of my head that have moves identical to moves at the Gunks somewhere on them.

With that said, the overall experience of climbing on Eldo rock does *not* feel like at the Gunks. The different types of cracks, the overall more broken feel, the different environment etc.

GO

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#66020 - 07/24/12 07:33 PM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: GOclimb]
Alex Offline
member

Registered: 08/16/00
Posts: 191
The Gunks and Eldorado are often compared. I agree with you. They're not similiar at all, but yet many of the cruxy moves at Eldorado could be twins to Gunks' cruxes. What I was previously comparing was that both have equally strenuous old school gear placing.

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#66028 - 07/25/12 07:38 PM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: Alex]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2354
Loc: Boston
Originally Posted By: Alex
The Gunks and Eldorado are often compared. I agree with you. They're not similiar at all, but yet many of the cruxy moves at Eldorado could be twins to Gunks' cruxes.


Yes, that's it precisely. Well put.

Quote:
What I was previously comparing was that both have equally strenuous old school gear placing.


Interesting - I suppose they're equally strenuous in the sense that they're both face climbing, so you need to sometimes place pieces from strenous face holds. But in terms of the actual protection itself, I find the two places remarkably dissimilar.

After coming from the Gunks, It took me a very long time to work through the grades to where I was comfortable climbing anywhere near my limit here, and the reason is mostly due to how different it is to assess the gear placements. The rock in Eldo is so much more broken, and while a lot of the holds one grabs are quite solid, many of the cracks where you find placements are in rock that would in the Gunks be considered choss. Let me tell you, that took some major getting used to!

Then there's also the fact that many climbs here in Eldo have good but *tiny* gear protecting hard moves. I place probably ten times as many brassies here as I did in the Gunks.

GO

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#66183 - 08/16/12 02:26 AM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: RangerRob]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2952
Loc: LI, NY
Rob, perhaps what you need is a trip to red rocks, hmmm?
_________________________
tOOthless

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

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#66216 - 08/17/12 06:25 PM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: empicard]
GunksWest Offline
journeyman

Registered: 11/24/00
Posts: 91
Loc: west o' the rockies
I can't believe Lake Louise near Banff hasn't been mentioned.

It's quartzite with horizontals, has a carriage road at the base, is partially in the trees, has a view of the lake (ala the left side of Skytop) and a good percentage of the routes stay dry in light to moderate rain. The main differences are that it is in Canada and the routes are all bolted (sport).

If you haven't been there, you should go.

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