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#65955 - 07/21/12 04:57 PM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: retroscree]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3764
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Wait, you say that Red Rocks seems like face climbing, which makes it less "Gunks like"? Maybe I read that wrong. The Gunks has always been face climbing central to me. No place else that I know of makes you face climb so far above small gear! Most other face climbing areas I have gone to are primarily bolted, such as Red Rocks.

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#65957 - 07/22/12 12:33 AM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: RangerRob]
retroscree Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Originally Posted By: RangerRob
Wait, you say that Red Rocks seems like face climbing, which makes it less "Gunks like"? Maybe I read that wrong.

I wasn't the one that said that. But....

Originally Posted By: RangerRob
The Gunks has always been face climbing central to me. No place else that I know of makes you face climb so far above small gear!

Which I basically agree with. I don't think the face climbing at Red Rocks is at all like Gunks face climbing because of the lack of numerous horizontals and the plethora of flakes of odd shapes seemingly glued on all over the place there. As far as climbing "so far" above small [trad] gear at the Gunks - there are a few others. Apparently you haven't been to Courtright Reservoir to name but one. And an old school slab route on the GPA or in the Meadows sure feels about the same or worse when you're 40' above a 50 year old 1/4"x2-1/2" rusty bolt with a semi-flattened hanger.

Originally Posted By: RangerRob
Most other face climbing areas I have gone to are primarily bolted, such as Red Rocks.

That's a major misconception about Red Rocks based on climbing at the first two pull-outs and a handful of excessively popular and crowded routes.

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#65958 - 07/22/12 01:31 PM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: retroscree]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3764
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Sorry Retro, I was responding to the author, but I guess I actually responded to you. I hear ya though. I've only been to red Rocks once, and from what I saw, it would be sad to get on bolted climbs when there are so many cracks, corners, flakes, off widths, etc. Coming from the Gunks, I have a serious deficiency of crack in my diet.

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#65962 - 07/22/12 11:03 PM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: retroscree]
Alex Offline
member

Registered: 08/16/00
Posts: 191
Well, you have to discount the protection aspect. Most of the Gunks-like areas I mentioned unfortunately are mostly bolted.
Red Rocks does not feel like Gunks climbing to me, in spite of the fact that many holds are flake buckets (similiar to routes in City of Rocks).
Owens Gorge does feel like Gunks climbing; steep, all horizontal holds, handhold intensive, unfortunately all bolts.
I have climbed at Courtright Resevoir. The runouts were indeed interesting but its not the Gunks. Slabby footwork intensive face climbing. Not steep dramatic handhold moves like Owens Gorge.
Lover's Leap gets consideration just because of its horizontal dikes (similiar to Blackleaf Canyon).
Overall, the rock most similiar to the Gunks out West is probably Uinta Rocks. But perhaps the most fun for a Gunks climber would be Maple Canyon.

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#65967 - 07/23/12 01:09 PM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: Alex]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
I guess there is a point to your quest, but almost the entire joy of road tripping is to climb in places and on rock types that are unlike the 'home crag'. Unless you're compiling a list of places to avoid.



Originally Posted By: Alex
Well, you have to discount the protection aspect. Most of the Gunks-like areas I mentioned unfortunately are mostly bolted.
Red Rocks does not feel like Gunks climbing to me, in spite of the fact that many holds are flake buckets (similiar to routes in City of Rocks).
Owens Gorge does feel like Gunks climbing; steep, all horizontal holds, handhold intensive, unfortunately all bolts.
I have climbed at Courtright Resevoir. The runouts were indeed interesting but its not the Gunks. Slabby footwork intensive face climbing. Not steep dramatic handhold moves like Owens Gorge.
Lover's Leap gets consideration just because of its horizontal dikes (similiar to Blackleaf Canyon).
Overall, the rock most similiar to the Gunks out West is probably Uinta Rocks. But perhaps the most fun for a Gunks climber would be Maple Canyon.

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#65968 - 07/23/12 02:13 PM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: Alex]
retroscree Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Originally Posted By: Alex
Owens Gorge does feel like Gunks climbing; steep, all horizontal holds, handhold intensive, unfortunately all bolts.

Unfortunately? How else would you protect those routes?

Originally Posted By: Alex
I have climbed at Courtright Resevoir. The runouts were indeed interesting but its not the Gunks. Slabby footwork intensive face climbing.

I didn't say the climbing was like the Gunks (it isn't at all) - just commented that it was one of those areas where you're doing face moves often uncomfortably far above your last pro.

Originally Posted By: Alex
But perhaps the most fun for a Gunks climber would be Maple Canyon.

I don't see the connection.

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#65969 - 07/23/12 03:17 PM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: ianmanger]
Alex Offline
member

Registered: 08/16/00
Posts: 191
Nobody likes road tripping as much as me. It's a special pleasure sampling the "feel" and type of climbing at new areas. It keeps me from getting jaded.
Yet I've always had a fondness for Gunks climbing. Its often a mystery to Westerners. With so many new areas available I take special interest in any that resemble that type of Gunks climbing.
Example: I've climbed a variety of popular desert towers. One of the ones I enjoyed the most was mainly Gunks climbing; exposed, dramatic moves on horizontal holds (mostly bolts).
Psycho Tower 5.9+

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#65970 - 07/23/12 03:46 PM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: Alex]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
But. per Retro, I still fail to see how a bolted conglomerate sport area like Maple should be "most fun for a Gunks climber" except in Opposite World. Surely the thing that's most fun for a Gunks climber is the one that's most fun, as it were.

And another issue, given that you can pretty much spit from Epinephrine to Prince of Darkness, for example, and the two climbs couldn't be more different, the generalizations about areas are largely pointless.



Originally Posted By: Alex
Nobody likes road tripping as much as me. It's a special pleasure sampling the "feel" and type of climbing at new areas. It keeps me from getting jaded.
Yet I've always had a fondness for Gunks climbing. Its often a mystery to Westerners. With so many new areas available I take special interest in any that resemble that type of Gunks climbing.
Example: I've climbed a variety of popular desert towers. One of the ones I enjoyed the most was mainly Gunks climbing; exposed, dramatic moves on horizontal holds (mostly bolts).
Psycho Tower 5.9+

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#65971 - 07/23/12 04:31 PM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: ianmanger]
Alex Offline
member

Registered: 08/16/00
Posts: 191
Yes, generalizatins are basically pointless. But similiarities do exist. I did say that generally Red Rocks did not feel like Gunks climbing to me. Yet there are climbs there, with those desert patina handholds on steep rock, that do have a Gunks-like feel to the climbing. Most of the places I mentioned have that conundrum; quite obviously not the Gunks and yet with some of the climbing having the dramatic handhold intensive feel of many Gunks routes.

As far as Maple Canyon goes; yes it does not look at all like the Gunks, no horizontal strata and all bolts (you need to discout that). But the climbing is all steep, dramatic handhold intensive moves at all grades (like the Gunks). Not buckets but cobbles. And the camping and scene there is not bad, although you won't be happy with the culinary options in the nearby towns compared to New Paltz! I stick with my recommendation; the most "Gunky fun" out West may be Maple Canyon.

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#65981 - 07/23/12 10:17 PM Re: best Gunks-like climbing out West [Re: Alex]
retroscree Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Originally Posted By: Alex
Yes, generalizatins are basically pointless. But similiarities do exist. I did say that generally Red Rocks did not feel like Gunks climbing to me. Yet there are climbs there, with those desert patina handholds on steep rock, that do have a Gunks-like feel to the climbing. Most of the places I mentioned have that conundrum; quite obviously not the Gunks and yet with some of the climbing having the dramatic handhold intensive feel of many Gunks routes.

As far as Maple Canyon goes; yes it does not look at all like the Gunks, no horizontal strata and all bolts (you need to discout that). But the climbing is all steep, dramatic handhold intensive moves at all grades (like the Gunks). Not buckets but cobbles. And the camping and scene there is not bad, although you won't be happy with the culinary options in the nearby towns compared to New Paltz! I stick with my recommendation; the most "Gunky fun" out West may be Maple Canyon.

You keep mentioning "handhold intensive moves" (whatever the hell that is) and face climbing yet perhaps the single most unique thing about Gunks climbing is the number of overhangs, ceilings, and roofs at all grades, which you fail to mention.

Maple is like bolted on holds at a gym and in one sense, the climbs there take on a monotonous sameness after a while. Of all the areas mentioned in this thread, it is perhaps the least Gunks-like; in style, feel, exposure, scene, and pretty much everything else. Except maybe weekend crowds.

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