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#64539 - 05/03/12 02:08 AM Son of easy o rap
worthrussell Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/11/10
Posts: 90
Loc: NY, Brooklyn
General question and I know I'm gonna take a beating for it but I'll ask anyway. Would people be pissed if the top of son of easy o had a bolted rap? I'm just curious if it would be frowned on ,clipped or hailed as a savior of life. The pitons and manky cams do not inspire confidence. I love the climb and warm up on it every time I climb. Just looking to get a general feling from the climbing community.

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#64545 - 05/03/12 02:56 AM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: worthrussell]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2468
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
I'm not going to get into the arguments, but two points:

1. Only the Mohonk Preserve can install bolts.

2. A 5.2ish traverse takes you over to the ledge with bolts over City Lights and, further along that ledge, bolts over Kama Sutra.

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#64547 - 05/03/12 03:01 AM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: rg@ofmc]
pitfall Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/01/00
Posts: 1165
Loc: Albany
You can get even warmer by walking off. It only takes a couple of minutes from there.
_________________________

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#64548 - 05/03/12 03:07 AM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: rg@ofmc]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1530
Loc: New Jersey
Originally Posted By: rg@ofmc
I'm not going to get into the arguments, but two points:

1. Only the Mohonk Preserve can install bolts.

2. A 5.2ish traverse takes you over to the ledge with bolts over City Lights and, further along that ledge, bolts over Kama Sutra.


Yea, while worthrussell watched I got up there to make that traverse. It is not 5.2, at least the way I remember it. You can go left though and downclimb.


Edited by donald perry (05/03/12 03:09 AM)
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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#64549 - 05/03/12 03:49 AM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: donald perry]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2468
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Well, 5.easy of some sort. And yes, the walk-off is short and easy, although a party that isn't competent on loose terrain, once they are over the top, can rain pebbles and bigger stuff down on parties below, making it questionable whether people should be encouraged to go all the way on this climb.

Once you are on top, I think there might be an option to rappel Baby, just to the South, or you can just walk a short distance North over to the multi-bolted ledge I mentioned above, in addition to walking back to the Uberfall or Radcliffe. If the party has a single rope and has to do two rappels, than it is probably faster, and at least no slower, to walk back to the Uberfall and then back to the base of Son of Easy O.

And of course, there is the possibility of climbing down the 5.0 Easy Overhang. BITD we all just soloed down it, but it can be downclimbed with protection too.


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#64553 - 05/03/12 11:12 AM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: rg@ofmc]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 619
Why have a bolted anchor there? It takes very little time to walk back to the Uberfall and then back to the Frog's Head access trail.

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#64555 - 05/03/12 11:38 AM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: Dana]
TrappDyke Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/10/09
Posts: 80
I think bolts near the top of Son of an Easy O are an excellent idea, and long overdue. I also believe an anchor just below the top-out of Baby has become necessary. The tree anchor on Baby is pathetic and the amount of erosion caused by topping out on both of these climbs is much more harmful to the environment than simply drilling four holes in the rock. I'm sure if enough climbers asked the Preserve for anchors on these climbs, they(the climbs) would become the next candidates for new anchors.

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#64557 - 05/03/12 01:05 PM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: TrappDyke]
worthrussell Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/11/10
Posts: 90
Loc: NY, Brooklyn
Why Dana? Really? How about because 99% of people lower off of that manky sling salad. Is that more appealing to you than a set of bolted rap anchors? Im well aware that you can walk around but alot of people don't. People run Son of easy o as one pitch and rap from that poor excuse of a rap station. It's a safety issue as it stands now and the bolts would be hidden behind the overhang. It seems like a no brainer but i guess everyone is entitled to their own opinion. TrappDyke i agree. I talk alot about these issues but never act on it. I will stop by the visitors center next time im up and find out about filing a formal request. Maybe even start a petition

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#64571 - 05/03/12 03:09 PM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: worthrussell]
Cornell Climber Offline
journeyman

Registered: 07/12/04
Posts: 61
Since nobody has mentioned it yet... that anchor is about 36m above the ground. You can just barely rappel it with a 70m rope and rope stretch. I'm not aware of any bolted anchors at the Gunks which require more than a single 60m rope to reach the ground or another rap station.

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#64580 - 05/03/12 03:50 PM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: Cornell Climber]
worthrussell Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/11/10
Posts: 90
Loc: NY, Brooklyn
You can rap to the ledge and join up with baby rappel 15 feet to the left

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