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#64583 - 05/03/12 04:28 PM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: worthrussell]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 709
Loc: NYC
Are there other Preserve anchors just shy of the top of the cliff? Seems like a bad idea to me. I'd rather see the pin anchor cleaned. Let everyone top out.
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#64584 - 05/03/12 04:33 PM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: worthrussell]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2361
Loc: Boston
Originally Posted By: worthrussell
Why Dana? Really? How about because 99% of people lower off of that manky sling salad. Is that more appealing to you than a set of bolted rap anchors? Im well aware that you can walk around but alot of people don't. People run Son of easy o as one pitch and rap from that poor excuse of a rap station. It's a safety issue as it stands now and the bolts would be hidden behind the overhang. It seems like a no brainer but i guess everyone is entitled to their own opinion. TrappDyke i agree. I talk alot about these issues but never act on it. I will stop by the visitors center next time im up and find out about filing a formal request. Maybe even start a petition


I really hope you're just trolling. Out of curiosity, where do you live, and how long have you been climbing at the Gunks?

I ask because you seem to be totally clueless about things like local consensus, the history of fixed gear at the Gunks, and the myriad issues involved. In short, if you want productive action, and not massive drama, you're going about things in exactly the wrong way.

Cheers,

GO

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#64585 - 05/03/12 04:43 PM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: GOclimb]
TrappDyke Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/10/09
Posts: 80
Goclimb. I don't see anything wrong with asking the Preserve to consider this. And, since when is Gunks.com the consensus?

Seth G. Topping out means raining down rocks on everyone below. This is an extremely high use area in which the top of the cliff is being severely impacted by foot travel. Question. Do you top out on Laurel, or M.F., or Birdie Party?

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#64586 - 05/03/12 04:44 PM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: SethG]
Adrian Offline
journeyman

Registered: 03/12/09
Posts: 73
Originally Posted By: SethG
Are there other Preserve anchors just shy of the top of the cliff? Seems like a bad idea to me. I'd rather see the pin anchor cleaned. Let everyone top out.

A lot of loose pebbles up there. But I think your idea is better than bolts.

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#64587 - 05/03/12 04:48 PM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: GOclimb]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
I don't think he's trolling -- I think this (desire) is the obvious progression from the appearance of bolted anchors where fixed anchors once were (or weren't).

I agree with Seth: I'd rather see the current crap disappear than have a fixed anchor there. You can still run P1 and P2 together - an anchor doesn't make that different. It just makes what you do after that different, and if you're any kind of experienced enough, you can handle it. If you're not experienced enough to efficiently handle it -- time to learn.

The biggest problem, though, is that lowering off of it requires a 70m rope. I know, that's the future of climbing and all (eye roll icon here), but -- around here, that's really begging for an accident. This is not a cutting edge sport area where 70m ropes are de rigeur. People would see a fixed pair of bolts, clip & lower.

I disagree, though, with the "this is consensus, don't question it" lashing. First, "consensus" is an ever-evolving thing, and convincing someone to keep the current consensus current requires ideas and reasons, not just "this is the way it is". Second, it's a private area, and we don't get a say over bolted anchors, so there's no sense in bringing out the drama over it. The Preserve will do ... what they want.

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#64597 - 05/03/12 06:57 PM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: Julie]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 709
Loc: NYC
You won't rain rocks on parties below if you are courteous when you top out.

And yes, I do skip the manky anchor and continue with MF. I haven't tried pitch two of Birdie Party yet, but I think I will do the same on that one. Laurel sucks, I like to skip that one entirely.
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#64598 - 05/03/12 07:24 PM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: SethG]
TrappDyke Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/10/09
Posts: 80
O.K. but since when are the weekend masses courteous. Also, even with the best intentions and skill it's almost impossible not to knock off a few rocks on that top out. Especially when it's dry.

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#64600 - 05/03/12 08:05 PM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: TrappDyke]
worthrussell Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/11/10
Posts: 90
Loc: NY, Brooklyn
Go climb love a good troll but no I'm serious. This is a highly used station and it is unsafe. We can talk all day about topping out and 4th class decent or a 5.2ish traverse but the fact remains that most just don't use it. The way i see it there are 2 options one is to remove all mank pitons and cams and force the top out or create a safe alternative. Not a local I grew up in the Bolton Landing/ Lake George region and spend most of my time climbing in keene Valley. Im not a local climber. I've never bolted a route. What drama do you speak of. This is an internet forum about the Gunks. Is there a better way to discuss issues among climbing masse? Trust me I'm not the first one who has thought about this nor am i the last. where does local consensus matter? Its a private land preserve not State run. What history do you speak of would this be the first bolted achor? C'mon man be real

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#64601 - 05/03/12 08:26 PM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: worthrussell]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 619
Calling Bill Ravitch, calling Bill Ravitch.

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#64602 - 05/03/12 08:31 PM Re: Son of easy o rap [Re: worthrussell]
Doug Online   content
member

Registered: 12/29/06
Posts: 176
Of your options, I'd go with removing the fixed anchor if it is such an attractive hazard. I've done that climb a few times and descended a few ways, including the very short walk to the City Lights bolted anchor. I guess I just don't see the need to having a permanent anchor there, bolted or otherwise.

I guess I avoid the area when it's busy so I have no idea how often it really gets used. I've never seen anyone rappelling from it. I used it once (as one component of an anchor) when doing Easy Overhang with my girlfriend so we could remain in eye contact for her first multipitch climb.

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