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#66663 - 09/30/12 11:58 AM Re: Appalachia Archives JUne 1960 [Re: cfrac]
Rickster Offline
old hand

Registered: 10/16/07
Posts: 848
Loc: Orange Cty, NY
The Marriot project at Minnewaska as well. I always thought the jet port was to be on the other side of the mountain. A "improvement" of the Wurtsboro Airport, which still may occur as a developer and current owner has big plans.

The type of activism that fights these efforts has a long history in the Wallkill Valley. Around '71-73, they fought tooth and nail to prevent a Carrol's fast food hamburger joint from opening across the street from the New Paltz Library. The building got built, but never opened as a burger joint.

#66666 - 10/01/12 12:36 PM Re: Appalachia Archives JUne 1960 [Re: cfrac]
tradjunkie Offline

Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 365
Originally Posted By: cfrac

A question: Fritz mentions the Old Route as "...190 vertical feet of enjoyable, interesting climbing, grade 4 to 5." Was he using the YDS and referring to 5.4 and 5.5 or was he using the UIAA IV/V, or something else? I'm guessing it was the latter since the use of YDS despite being developed in the 1930's probably hadn't taken hold yet in the East. So, does anyone know?

The route description at the end of the article describes the start as a grade 5; presumably the upper part of the climb is a grade 4. For comparison, other routes described as grade 5 in the same article include Emory Crack and [Fritz's] Yellow Face, both graded 5.7 in modern guidebooks, and Maria, a 5.6+.

#66834 - 10/26/12 09:45 PM Re: Appalachia Archives JUne 1960 [Re: tradjunkie]
Roy Kligfield Offline

Registered: 03/16/10
Posts: 16
Loc: Boulder, CO
He almost assuredly referred to Grade 4 as "4th class" and Grade 5 as "5th class" i.e., 5.0 to 5.9 climbing rating. You would see him say "middle 5th class" or "upper 5th class" in the ratings descriptions. The Appalachia article in 1960 is the best known of these publications--but the AMC kept notes throughout the period. Perhaps in the archives of the AMC?

Moreover, suggest that you find someone still alive who climbed in the Appalachian Mountain Club in the 1960s. I recall that they organized semi-annual trips into Millbrook throughout this period. All of these trips involved hiking in from the base, descending on the side of the cliff once the top was reached, and finding your knapsack on the talus slope at the base, then walking out. Even in the 60s the situation with landowners was "tenuous" and great caution had to be observed to maintain minimum profile when approaching Millbrook from the bottom.

#66837 - 10/27/12 04:38 AM Re: Appalachia Archives JUne 1960 [Re: Roy Kligfield]
rg@ofmc Offline

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2471
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY

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