A question: Fritz mentions the Old Route as "...190 vertical feet of enjoyable, interesting climbing, grade 4 to 5." Was he using the YDS and referring to 5.4 and 5.5 or was he using the UIAA IV/V, or something else? I'm guessing it was the latter since the use of YDS despite being developed in the 1930's probably hadn't taken hold yet in the East. So, does anyone know?
The route description at the end of the article describes the start as a grade 5; presumably the upper part of the climb is a grade 4. For comparison, other routes described as grade 5 in the same article include Emory Crack and [Fritz's] Yellow Face, both graded 5.7 in modern guidebooks, and Maria, a 5.6+.