Probably, it's a little slick and the first couple moves might end up with people decking on that large bolder. I've heard people have gotten hurt/killed hitting that boulder, and it seems reasonable that could/would happen. I wouldn't lead it. Anyone leading 5.7 at the Gunks is likely a relatively strong climber so their margin for error is probably wide enough this is rarely an issue. And after just a few moves and placement of a few quality pieces early the risk is probably gone. Ken's Crack is a really good climb and easy to setup as a TR (and safer on top rope although I reclal using a couple directionals). I'm sure I meant PG13 (had a R???), but in light of thinking about it the GEAR is G, but the climb is polished and at least it's duly noted now.

There's tons of risk inherent in climbing, and to increase it soloing is what I'm resisting.

Let's get back to koolaid drinking. My favorite flavor is Grape.

from the beginning you seemed like a troll...but if you're not a troll then...then...shit...i dont know...for your sake i really hope that you're just a troll

for your sake i really hope that you're just a troll

Not a good thing to wish for. From Wikipedia:

in Scandinavian folklore, trolls become defined as a particular type of being, generally held to be larger than humans and notably ugly. Numerous tales about trolls are recorded, in which they are frequently described as being extremely old, very strong, but slow and dim-witted. They are sometimes described as man-eaters and as turning to stone upon contact with sunlight. Into the 20th century, the origins of particular Scandinavian landmarks, such as particular stones, are ascribed to trolls.

From that description, it seems that if they wanted to climb, they'd have to solo at night.

For someone who scrapes as much as you do off the net, I'd think by now you'd know the meaning of troll:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Troll_%28Internet%29

I could be wrong, but I believe "o's" post was tongue in cheek.

I would hope so at this point, but it had just enough of a serious tone to it.....

Unfortunately in just 4 years of climbing I've seen things people who climb 30 years may never. Sadly, I'm certain this gives me persepctive I hope many others don't have to witness what I have to appreciate. My issues and posts are from the heart. The few who know me and have climbed with me here know that. I just hope that something in this thread triggers someone to stop and think about how they climb. Just might save them a bunch of hurt.

My issues and posts are from the heart. The few who know me and have climbed with me here know that. I just hope that something in this thread triggers someone to stop and think about how they climb. Just might save them a bunch of hurt.

I, for one, believe you're sincere. Nevertheless it is belaboring the obvious to state that your initial post stepped on some sensitive toes. As RG's post pointed out, you seemed to be stepping yet harder in subsequent posts. It's unlikely that this post will be the last in this thread, but the latter seems to have reached retirement age.

That was me. Please allow me introduce and to explain myself. My name is Donald Perry, I hope you will forgive me for being abrupt, I will apologies for that in advice. I like to get to the point. So I am sorry if I come off as somewhat offensive, I do not mean to be, that is not how I sound in person.


First, when someone is soloing you don't bother them, it is very rude. Argue with them later, that's fine. If someone is asking questions like, "would you like a rope" when they are in the middle of something what do you think is going to be going through their mind? When I was on the 5.5 crux instead of concentrating fully on the moves, now I am being distracted with speculations about what the speaker may have meant by the reason for the question in the first place. Was it that I needed help either with a rope, medication, a straight jacket … whatever worked? I was too busy to be bothered about what anyone else was misunderstanding, my job was to take care of myself not anyone else, and I do not see any reason to apologize for that. Next time I will give a lecture before I start and ask for questions, perhaps that would be a good way to start my adrenalin pumping and avert distractions. Or maybe I can take a vote first. Anything is better than trying to carry on a conversation with someone while you are in the middle of a crux.


As a matter of fact to be honest with you I do that too, interrupt people while they are on the crux. But when I do it, it is to intently make them fall off. Sometimes it works! For example, it is impossible to climb hard while your are LYAO. The way I see it, this is the best way to find out how good your jokes really are. But you have to wait and bide your time, just till the point where they step onto the crux, and then I tell them the joke. If it is a good one he falls off, if not he keeps climbing. Distraction is key. I have some youtube links for this so here.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mopVSgx1RD0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F2QnieQNU8s

They do not make those old leather boots anymore, you can only get them on ebay. What I wear now is la sportiva Glacier in the summer, they are lighter.

http://www.backcountrygear.com/la-sportiva-glacier-mens.html?gclid=CLGg-8mAiqsCFeZ05QodMVg5xA

and la sportiva Nepal in winter


http://cascadeclimbers.com/gear/clothing...-Boot-Mens.html

However, lately I have been walking around in sneakers sometimes, but I have not climbed in them, yet.