OK, I can see you still don't believe me.
ALL ABOUT LEATHER HIKING BOOTS:
I guess you guys do not rock climb when it is below 32 degrees Fahrenheit, too bad for you. You should know that it is only really cold when it gets below 10 degrees, then you have to put your hands in your pockets sometimes. Some people's hands are hot no matter how cold it got. But the boots, they have to do with big walls, climbing all day long, edging or climbing in the Gunks in the winter! That's what they are made for, and for that there is nothing better. You think you can belay in snow covered ledges in those slippers you ware? Back in the 70's I had a choice to make between two climbing shoes, Eb's and Chouinard shoenards by Vasque, the same people that made the leather hiking boots.
The shoenards were for edging and the Eb's were for smearing. Dick Williams said that he got those shoenards because there is a lot of edging in the Gunks, so I bought them. Basically they were light, stiff, and some thin cuts in the bottoms, and covered the ankle. After climbing with those awhile I switched back to hiking boots. I also use them for jumping off high ball boulder problems. And, they are very comfortable on tiny edges and not worth changing into anything else unless there is some smearing or some big overhangs involved. The weight of them sits on the cliff, and unless your on Foops or Matinee it does not make any difference.
ALL ABOUT SHAKIE MOVES:
When you see these guys climbing so very smooth, you're not seeing very much, really. But you would not know that, but don't feel bad, most people don't. I used to climb with an overweight climber, his name was Stokie Baker, he taught me what it meant to push things to the absolute limit. He knew how to throw in bomber placements in a blink of an eye, but the way he got up the climbs was simply amazing. I thought he was falling off the whole way up. The way he handled the rock was deliberately not to get comfortable and organized. That takes some balls. He just gave it all he had, and although he was heavy and weak he was pushing up new route 5.11's in a flash on sight!!! Most climbers could flash a grade harder if they were not so busy trying to annualize what they were doing and get comfortable, but they either have no idea or they don't have the balls. I write this in defense of this unknown style of climbing, I think it deserves a lot of respect, although it never has any. Virtually no one climbs like that. To get an only an *idea* of what I am talking about see this:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7DHn1xGQhlM
Boris climbing Supper's ready 5.12a