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#66776 - 10/21/12 03:03 AM Beetle brow bulge
worthrussell Offline

Registered: 04/11/10
Posts: 90
Loc: NY, Brooklyn
Anybody have thoughts on this route? Protection good at the crux? I wanted to lead it but haven't followed it and know very little. Tricky gear, pumpy run outs on small gear, regular gunks sandbag or or total screw job? Any and all beta appreciated. Would be my first 10 lead n the gunks. Sounds up my alley big holds and gym like. Not a big gym fan bu I Do overcompensate for lack of technique with good pulling power.

#66777 - 10/21/12 03:18 AM Re: Beetle brow bulge [Re: worthrussell]
Doug Offline

Registered: 12/29/06
Posts: 176
I like this route. Make sure you go up in the right spot. My brother followed me once but went too far climber's right (I think) and made it more like an 11.

My recollections (which are sort of vague, I forget these sorts of details):
- The start was really easy, but somewhat runout. I may have not looked too hard though, and I think I clipped a pin that was hammered downward (vertically vs horizontal).
- I plugged in a few pieces from a good stance under the roof, enough that I felt comfortable. Can't recall the sizes though. I think I was even able to lean out or climb out a little to get a good nut before committing, and coming back to rest first.
- I felt like the hardest part was getting started, and I think I hand-jammed or at least used a vertical crack.
- I liked the part right after the roof and was able to get to a good rest and shake out before looking for gear. Maybe I was used to overhanging gym climbs but I didn't find it too bad there.
- It hangs a right at the top to a ledge. I remember not immediately loving the anchor options, but am not sure if it was just the gear I had on me. There is a rap station I used as part of it but wanted backups or at least directionals back near the edge of the ledge.

#66779 - 10/21/12 03:37 PM Re: Beetle brow bulge [Re: worthrussell]
artisan Offline

Registered: 03/22/09
Posts: 23
you can sit down before the crux. and place gear from that stance. there was a fixed nut halfway out the roof, which is gone, but the placement remains. there is good gear in the roof.

#66784 - 10/22/12 12:41 AM Re: Beetle brow bulge [Re: artisan]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
Very easy climbing up to the overhang with just the aforementioned pin to clip. You can hang out forever under the over hang and work out your gear. Depending on what you want to place you get use anything from #3 Camalot to small nuts. What I find works very nicely is a green alien in the thin vertical crack, its bomber and up a little bit so if you come off your safe. Once you pull out over the hang a mixture of small and medium cams comes in handy although you can place a gold camalot as soon as your pull over. As long as you stay calm the climbing is not hard and the good holds are all there. After you pull off of the headwall you can continue up the pine tree(easier climbing) or traverse right to slings(I always go up)

#66786 - 10/22/12 01:31 AM Re: Beetle brow bulge [Re: Coppertone]
worthrussell Offline

Registered: 04/11/10
Posts: 90
Loc: NY, Brooklyn
Awesome guys thanks for the beta. I've got a new green alien ready to go. I always love the climbs with a nice rest before firing into the crux. At least now I know if I peel it will be safe

#66788 - 10/22/12 02:19 AM Re: Beetle brow bulge [Re: worthrussell]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
This is a good first 5.10. Well protected, and a crux sequence that is not hard to figure out. Be forewarned though, once over the roof you have 15-20 feet of dead vertical to slightly overhanging 5.8 climbing with little to no rest. Gear and good holds abound, but you have to remember to stop and place.


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