I like this route. Make sure you go up in the right spot. My brother followed me once but went too far climber's right (I think) and made it more like an 11.
My recollections (which are sort of vague, I forget these sorts of details):
- The start was really easy, but somewhat runout. I may have not looked too hard though, and I think I clipped a pin that was hammered downward (vertically vs horizontal).
- I plugged in a few pieces from a good stance under the roof, enough that I felt comfortable. Can't recall the sizes though. I think I was even able to lean out or climb out a little to get a good nut before committing, and coming back to rest first.
- I felt like the hardest part was getting started, and I think I hand-jammed or at least used a vertical crack.
- I liked the part right after the roof and was able to get to a good rest and shake out before looking for gear. Maybe I was used to overhanging gym climbs but I didn't find it too bad there.
- It hangs a right at the top to a ledge. I remember not immediately loving the anchor options, but am not sure if it was just the gear I had on me. There is a rap station I used as part of it but wanted backups or at least directionals back near the edge of the ledge.