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#22844 - 08/09/06 03:44 AM Grimace Face.....
fear Offline

Registered: 06/27/03
Posts: 221
Loc: New England
So tell me how this shitpile gets three stars in the new Gray Dick.....

P1 - 5.8PG... I can agree with that....

P2 - 5.8+PG .... Loose, friable rock, with no pro past the underside of the roof, key flake/hold will snap off anytime... Did I miss something here? Some funky/magical gear placement? How is this PG without a hammer and pins or a bolt kit?

We did TR the direct finish on P3. Don't worry, I snapped off 'most' of the loose stuff..... Other than that what was Dick drinking?



#22845 - 08/09/06 11:41 AM Re: Grimace Face..... [Re: fear]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3763
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Sounds like you may have been off route. I haven't done it yet myself, but I hear the last pitch is phenomenal. Funny how only in the Gunks does a route with a little loose rock become a "shitpile"


#22846 - 08/09/06 12:11 PM Re: Grimace Face..... [Re: RangerRob]
Smike Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 3143
Loc: in your backyard
Funny how only in the Gunks does a route with a little loose rock become a "shitpile"

Only in the Gunks does 99.99% of most routes employ that super solid Shawangunk conglomerate. Now the Dacks on the other handÂ…

#22847 - 08/09/06 01:27 PM Re: Grimace Face..... [Re: fear]
Kent Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/21/00
Posts: 1036
Loc: The Bayards
Fear...where does the direct finish on P3 go? From the top of the second pitch, the regular third pitch moves up and traverses left under an overhang. Move up where there is a left facing corner in the hang. Once above the hang move up and right over easier ground. It is a stellar pitch. P3 alone might warrant a 3 star rating for the whole climb despite the P2 choss pile.

There was once a large (coffee table sized) rock on P2 that would pivot a lot if you touched it. It either fell spontaneously or was trundled a few years ago. It was there on a Sunday and cratered somehow before the following Tuesday. The route is much safer now.

Edited to clean up my description a bit.

Edited by Kent (08/09/06 02:25 PM)

#22848 - 08/09/06 02:30 PM Re: Grimace Face..... [Re: Kent]
fear Offline

Registered: 06/27/03
Posts: 221
Loc: New England
Instead of trending left towards Shockley's, the direct finish goes straight up the right side of an easy pillar and out right over the huge roof at an obvious weakness on the center/right.... One book has it at 10b which seems about right if you nail the sequence. A mandatory heelhook makes it a neat move.... I snapped off a large flake that probably made it somewhat easier before but not enough to change the grade... We only TR'd P3 though so I can't comment on the gear other than it would be "challenging". Heh....

P3, whichever way, is definitely the only "three star" pitch worth doing IMO... P1 was ok but certainly not memorable.

I should have clarified that only P2 seemed like a loose and creepy R-rated shitpile (only compared to other "3-star" Gunks climbs). Or maybe I missed some gear placements or was just offroute somehow.......

Check it out....


#22849 - 08/09/06 04:03 PM Re: Grimace Face..... [Re: fear]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3424
Loc: pdx
I did the route a couple of years ago. i really liked the 2nd and 3rd pitches.

the 2nd pitch had fine, if a bit tricky gear. It felt like climbing alpine routes, where you have to remember to pull down on that hold so it will stay there. Maybe all of my placements are gone now...

the 3rd pitch is money.

#22850 - 08/09/06 06:14 PM Re: Grimace Face..... [Re: crackers]
rg@ofmc Offline

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2454
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
This is a rare case in which Dick has (the third pitch of) the route wrong, at least historically. I'm sure of this because I made the second ascent with McCarthy, a week or two after he made the first ascent with Robbins. The historical third pitch is what Grey Dick calls the 5.9 variation to P.R.; it is drawn in with a dotted line on the cliff photo. The pitch described as the third pitch of GAF is the original third pitch of PR, however, it was almost certainly done before Stannard did the 11d first pitch.

By the way, I've done the No Belle Prize variation and it scared the daylights out of me---I recall overhanging 5.10 moves 20, perhaps more feet up with a ledge fall in the offing. This was in the days before cams; perhaps Aliens would now make a difference.

As for pitch two, it seems to me that since 1966 rock has fallen off below the crux overhang, leaving a rather unstable (by Gunks standards) area below. You can't help but wonder whether any gear placed below the the overhang will simply serve to remove more rock if it is called on to stop a fall. This is speculative, of course, but the sensible thing, in my opinion, is to treat this as an R-rated pitch, although it is no looser than many pitches one might find in other areas.

The route sketch in Grey Dick has you heading too far to the right on pitch two. However, if you do go out that way, the rock is better and the hardest moves are, I think, quite a bit easier.

#22851 - 08/11/06 04:43 AM Re: Grimace Face..... [Re: rg@ofmc]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1053
Loc: Newtown, CT
I love the whole climb. The first pitch is mellow fun 5.8 with one slight runout.

The second pitch is great. It takes a little patience and cool head, but has good moves over that small overhang down low. You can get good gear in just under the roof in several spots and one is actually in solid rock. As was previously stated pull down and not out on the potato chip flake. You get bomber gear once past this spot. Once over that overhang move sligthly right and then straight up through a bunch of interesting moves. It is a litte run out a little higher up but the climbing is not that difficult. There is a good bit of loose rock on this pitch but I find that it adds to the charm of the route and helps to keep this fantastic route free of traffic.

The third pitch is great.

Everyones opinion will vary but I think this is one of the best 5.9's around. The rock quality is not as good as say Insulation nor are the moves as aesthic but still a great 3 pitch route.

Edited by Coppertone (08/11/06 04:45 AM)

#22852 - 08/17/06 04:57 AM Re: Grimace Face..... [Re: Coppertone]
yme Offline

Registered: 05/12/06
Posts: 11
Loc: the road(try it u might like i...
p1 sling the block p2 good cams inside the "loose rock"(route finding anyone?) p3 lf corner w the piton? was i off route for the 10th time. for more fun checkout the blackout(59rrrrrrrrrrrr)

#22853 - 09/12/06 01:30 AM Re: Grimace Face..... [Re: yme]
rackrat Offline

Registered: 12/20/02
Posts: 160
Loc: NYC - UWS
The Potato Chip flake under the roof is a bit sketchy, but it holds an orange Metolius well. It's more to protect the second on the traverse. The bomber natural chock that you can grab up inside makes a great anchor for the leader. I've loved this climb for years.
Trad is the only way to fly.

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