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#22854 - 09/14/06 03:50 AM Re: Grimace Face..... [Re: rackrat]
Coppertone Online   content
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1054
Loc: Newtown, CT
Quote:

The Potato Chip flake under the roof is a bit sketchy, but it holds an orange Metolius well. It's more to protect the second on the traverse. The bomber natural chock that you can grab up inside makes a great anchor for the leader. I've loved this climb for years.




Your putting gear behind a flake that may come off if you pull out instead of down, not a very good idea. And what traverse are you talking about? After that move you angle a hair to the right as get great gear which will protect your second just fine since you are always to the right of the flake anyway. Also the flake is over the little overhang on the second pitch not under it.

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#22855 - 09/18/06 05:01 AM Re: Grimace Face..... [Re: fear]
Cornell Climber Offline
journeyman

Registered: 07/12/04
Posts: 61
Did this climb today for the first time. I led p1 which was straightforward 5.8 climbing. Gear was sufficient for a PG rating. My partner led p2. He started to pull through the overhang, but backed off. He stayed low and moved about 12 feet right, then up. Done this way the pitch is not R-rated. It was fun and the rock was decent. There was plenty of chalk along this route. I led p3 which is an impressive roof. I had to hang at the pin. Actually, I didn't have to hang, I could have onsighted the climb, but I'm a coward. Big roof on big holds. Lots of fun. This is what gives the climb three stars.

A side note... with Grim-Ace Face I have now climbed every three star route in William's Gunks Select rated below 5.10.

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#22856 - 09/27/06 04:48 PM Re: Grimace Face..... [Re: Coppertone]
rackrat Offline
member

Registered: 12/20/02
Posts: 160
Loc: NYC - UWS
Ahh... sorry, recalling Ape Call, not Grimace.
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#22857 - 09/27/06 11:40 PM Re: Grimace Face..... [Re: rackrat]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
Doesn't sound a lot like Ape Call either.

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#22858 - 09/28/06 03:14 AM Re: Grimace Face..... [Re: dalguard]
Coppertone Online   content
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1054
Loc: Newtown, CT
Quote:

Doesn't sound a lot like Ape Call either.




I think that is calling that small loose block that is kind of wedged in under the roof on the Ape Call the "potato chip flake'. And the traverse he is referring to I guess in the one move from right to left out of the corner which isn't even necessary as you can come at the overhang by going up the face and not in the corner. Either way both routes are good clean fun.

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#66903 - 11/13/12 03:18 PM Re: Grimace Face..... [Re: Coppertone]
SethG Online   content
addict

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 680
Loc: NYC
Reviving this old thread just to say:

(1) The first pitch is a little bit scary. You get gear right at the 5.8 crux but then it is run out for a while and the climbing, while maybe not 5.8, is not trivial either. Dick suggests you sling a certain block but I couldn't figure out how to do it in a way that I thought would really work. One move after the block you do finally get some good pro but if you fall at the block and the sling pops off you are going to hit the bulge below.

(2) I don't know why people think the second pitch is so bad, maybe it has cleaned up a bit? Certainly some loose blocks right below the crux and some shaky flakes here and there but all of it easily avoided. I've seen a lot more loose stuff on classic pitches elsewhere in the Gunks. Fun crux, roof a little hard for 5.8+. I believe the initial reference to a "potato chip" above was regarding the crucial hold over the roof. It is a thin hold but I thought it was solid. There are a few nice steep moves after the roof. I liked this pitch.

(3) The third pitch is awesome. The pin is gone. If you are short like me you have to commit to the little finger-sized horizontal before you can place anything there and the placement is blind. But it's all you'll get. Great roof problem! And then you get to finish up a nice bit of Shockley's.
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#66904 - 11/13/12 04:45 PM Re: Grimace Face..... [Re: SethG]
Coppertone Online   content
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1054
Loc: Newtown, CT
Seth its been some time, but I recall on the first pitch that you cut out the runout if you have along sling(4 ft) and girth hitch the flake/block. As long as your slings are long enough this works well. For the finish on the last pitch it doesn't actually join Shockleys to the left but trends right on an independent line to the small ledge with tree and slings.

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#66905 - 11/13/12 05:04 PM Re: Grimace Face..... [Re: Coppertone]
SethG Online   content
addict

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 680
Loc: NYC
The line in the photo does as you say, staying independent, but Dick has changed the description to recommend joining Shockley's. It is a good way to end it.
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#66906 - 11/13/12 05:15 PM Re: Grimace Face..... [Re: SethG]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4269
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Dick has changed the line of the last pitch multiple times. I still think the "blue book version" is the best. IIRC that's now the last pitch of either PR or Mr. Transistor. It's a real steep arete, almost like an inverted staircase. Very pumpy and dramatic.

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#66907 - 11/13/12 08:37 PM Re: Grimace Face..... [Re: Mike Rawdon]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3763
Loc: Ulster County, NY
For what it's worth, climbing the blocky 5.7 crack about 30 feet to the right is good alternative pitch to get you to the first belay.

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