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#66969 - 12/01/12 02:40 PM le teton beta
worthrussell Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/11/10
Posts: 90
Loc: NY, Brooklyn
Thinking about tackling le teton this monday. Any beta would be appreciated. Also is the crux the crack or the hand traverse afterwards?

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#66970 - 12/01/12 03:03 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: worthrussell]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
Rope, rack, shirt on your back. Weather looks nice.


Originally Posted By: worthrussell
Thinking about tackling le teton this monday. Any beta would be appreciated. Also is the crux the crack or the hand traverse afterwards?

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#66971 - 12/01/12 03:11 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: worthrussell]
anthonyb Offline
newbie

Registered: 10/21/08
Posts: 38
Loc: Paris, France
I think the crux is the move or two up to the traverse. After the initial easy traverse out of the belay it's fairly easy to take the first step up and rightish. After that it took me a while to figure out how I wanted to continue up. The traverse left after moving up is fairly obvious, and you're golden as soon as you hit the big block with the pair of pitons jammed underneath it. The last section of overhanging jug hauling isn't a gimme but it's just a matter of holding on.

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#66972 - 12/01/12 03:14 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: worthrussell]
Doug Offline
member

Registered: 12/29/06
Posts: 175
It's a hoot; get on it!

I could be misremembering, but...

I thought the crux was the crack. The rest was on good holds with good rests. The rock around the crack is smooth so you can't just slap a foot anywhere and expect it to stick. There are enough to get to the top of the crack though and there are decent holds there (I think I could wedge a hand/fist near the top, and there was another good hold right and above the crack). You can also go out to check out the crack and retreat back to the alcove to rest.

After the crack the start of the traverse left was tricky - I don't remember the details, but maybe just not as positive holds? There is a pin and I think I did one more move past it to a massive jug. I'd recommend committing to go that far instead of tiring yourself trying to clip the pin early. I don't even recall if the pin is any good. There were a few on the route and I think at least some were junk.

From there you can more or less take a nap around the corner before the juggy, pumpy, awesome finish.


Edited by Doug (12/01/12 03:17 PM)

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#66973 - 12/01/12 03:55 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: worthrussell]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
Great climb. As previously stated moving up the crack and getting established in the leftward traverse after that is the crux.

Climb is in a right facing corner and likely to be extremely cold. I've always done Le Teton on hot summer days as it tends to be always cool and in the shade. Maybe not the best choice for a cold day.

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#66974 - 12/01/12 04:36 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: Coppertone]
worthrussell Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/11/10
Posts: 90
Loc: NY, Brooklyn
Thanks guys. Im hoping to send this, modern times and higher stannard. Hope it all sends.

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#66975 - 12/01/12 04:55 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: worthrussell]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4275
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Originally Posted By: worthrussell
Hope it all sends.


It sends? I thought the climber "sends" the route. As in, "Send it, dude!"

It's SO hard keeping up with evolving climber lexicon...

(Anyway, I can share some movement beta for the crack if you're interested; just PM me)

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#66976 - 12/01/12 05:03 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: Mike Rawdon]
fotovult Offline
member

Registered: 09/01/05
Posts: 136
Loc: ny
climb straight up into the crux it on the arete from down low- more sustained at grade and way more fun IMO. Tetonia, I think.
_________________________
www.chrisvultaggio.com

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#66978 - 12/01/12 05:49 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: Mike Rawdon]
Valpine Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/29/10
Posts: 55
Loc: W.Sand Lake, NY
Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
Originally Posted By: worthrussell
Hope it all sends.


It sends? I thought the climber "sends" the route. As in, "Send it, dude!"

It's SO hard keeping up with evolving climber lexicon...


Worth has a language all of his own.


Edited by Valpine (12/01/12 06:19 PM)

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#66979 - 12/01/12 06:54 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: Doug]
Rockanice Offline
member

Registered: 12/24/99
Posts: 146
Loc: New York

I guess the technical crux is getting up the crack, but if you pump out, it kicks in what I call the "roving crux"

I can think of more than a few climbs where the "easier" climbing post-crux can do you in- Le Teton is a great example for the potential "roving crux" phenomena- a good climb!

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