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#66969 - 12/01/12 02:40 PM le teton beta
worthrussell Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/11/10
Posts: 90
Loc: NY, Brooklyn
Thinking about tackling le teton this monday. Any beta would be appreciated. Also is the crux the crack or the hand traverse afterwards?

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#66970 - 12/01/12 03:03 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: worthrussell]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
Rope, rack, shirt on your back. Weather looks nice.


Originally Posted By: worthrussell
Thinking about tackling le teton this monday. Any beta would be appreciated. Also is the crux the crack or the hand traverse afterwards?

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#66971 - 12/01/12 03:11 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: worthrussell]
anthonyb Offline
newbie

Registered: 10/21/08
Posts: 38
Loc: Paris, France
I think the crux is the move or two up to the traverse. After the initial easy traverse out of the belay it's fairly easy to take the first step up and rightish. After that it took me a while to figure out how I wanted to continue up. The traverse left after moving up is fairly obvious, and you're golden as soon as you hit the big block with the pair of pitons jammed underneath it. The last section of overhanging jug hauling isn't a gimme but it's just a matter of holding on.

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#66972 - 12/01/12 03:14 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: worthrussell]
Doug Offline
member

Registered: 12/29/06
Posts: 176
It's a hoot; get on it!

I could be misremembering, but...

I thought the crux was the crack. The rest was on good holds with good rests. The rock around the crack is smooth so you can't just slap a foot anywhere and expect it to stick. There are enough to get to the top of the crack though and there are decent holds there (I think I could wedge a hand/fist near the top, and there was another good hold right and above the crack). You can also go out to check out the crack and retreat back to the alcove to rest.

After the crack the start of the traverse left was tricky - I don't remember the details, but maybe just not as positive holds? There is a pin and I think I did one more move past it to a massive jug. I'd recommend committing to go that far instead of tiring yourself trying to clip the pin early. I don't even recall if the pin is any good. There were a few on the route and I think at least some were junk.

From there you can more or less take a nap around the corner before the juggy, pumpy, awesome finish.


Edited by Doug (12/01/12 03:17 PM)

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#66973 - 12/01/12 03:55 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: worthrussell]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
Great climb. As previously stated moving up the crack and getting established in the leftward traverse after that is the crux.

Climb is in a right facing corner and likely to be extremely cold. I've always done Le Teton on hot summer days as it tends to be always cool and in the shade. Maybe not the best choice for a cold day.

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#66974 - 12/01/12 04:36 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: Coppertone]
worthrussell Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/11/10
Posts: 90
Loc: NY, Brooklyn
Thanks guys. Im hoping to send this, modern times and higher stannard. Hope it all sends.

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#66975 - 12/01/12 04:55 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: worthrussell]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Originally Posted By: worthrussell
Hope it all sends.


It sends? I thought the climber "sends" the route. As in, "Send it, dude!"

It's SO hard keeping up with evolving climber lexicon...

(Anyway, I can share some movement beta for the crack if you're interested; just PM me)

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#66976 - 12/01/12 05:03 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: Mike Rawdon]
fotovult Online   content
member

Registered: 09/01/05
Posts: 142
Loc: ny
climb straight up into the crux it on the arete from down low- more sustained at grade and way more fun IMO. Tetonia, I think.
_________________________
www.chrisvultaggio.com

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#66978 - 12/01/12 05:49 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: Mike Rawdon]
Valpine Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/29/10
Posts: 55
Loc: W.Sand Lake, NY
Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
Originally Posted By: worthrussell
Hope it all sends.


It sends? I thought the climber "sends" the route. As in, "Send it, dude!"

It's SO hard keeping up with evolving climber lexicon...


Worth has a language all of his own.


Edited by Valpine (12/01/12 06:19 PM)

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#66979 - 12/01/12 06:54 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: Doug]
Rockanice Offline
member

Registered: 12/24/99
Posts: 146
Loc: New York

I guess the technical crux is getting up the crack, but if you pump out, it kicks in what I call the "roving crux"

I can think of more than a few climbs where the "easier" climbing post-crux can do you in- Le Teton is a great example for the potential "roving crux" phenomena- a good climb!

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#66980 - 12/01/12 08:03 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: fotovult]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
Tetonia is a good line if you are comfortable with 5.10 and some runout with less than great gear. Not a good suggestion for someone where well protected solid 5.9 is a challenge.

Originally Posted By: fotovult
climb straight up into the crux it on the arete from down low- more sustained at grade and way more fun IMO. Tetonia, I think.

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#66981 - 12/01/12 08:14 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: Coppertone]
fotovult Online   content
member

Registered: 09/01/05
Posts: 142
Loc: ny
Originally Posted By: Coppertone
Tetonia is a good line if you are comfortable with 5.10 and some runout with less than great gear. Not a good suggestion for someone where well protected solid 5.9 is a challenge.



I never felt like it was 5.10 climbing, no move seemed harder than the le teton crux above it. But you're right about the gear, it is a little spicy - clean falls though.

Seems like there is more honest climbing on tetonia compared to Le Teton, which is easy rock up to a few moves of 5.9.
_________________________
www.chrisvultaggio.com

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#66982 - 12/01/12 08:47 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: fotovult]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
Not diminishing Tetonia in anyway just probably not a good choice for someone working on 5.9's. While I didn't think there were any hard 5.10's moves on it, the sustained overhanging nature of the climb made it 5.10 to me. Definitely a harder lead then say Beatle Brow Bulge or Retribution.

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#66983 - 12/02/12 03:08 AM Re: le teton beta [Re: Coppertone]
worthrussell Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/11/10
Posts: 90
Loc: NY, Brooklyn
Coppertone no need to worry. Im really new to gunks 5.9. Ive lead a few 10a/b clean in the dacks and a bunch more in rumney but gunks 10 always feels desperate to me. I'll keep it in the memory banks for the end of next season.

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#66984 - 12/02/12 03:18 AM Re: le teton beta [Re: worthrussell]
worthrussell Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/11/10
Posts: 90
Loc: NY, Brooklyn
Dont need the "honest 5.9" the Climb with a 5 9 crux and easier 7/8ish roof action afterwards is Good enough for me. Exposure is my achilles heel and im just looking to climb some stuff Within my lead ability that will harden me against its awesome grip.

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#66985 - 12/02/12 04:23 AM Re: le teton beta [Re: worthrussell]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Gear beta is always the key to crusing a harder technical route. Don't read if you don't want the gear beta:

At the top of the crack where it opens up there is a beautiful #2 camalot placement that protects the start of the traverse beautifully. Have that puppy ready to fire in. A second #2 helps to make you comfy before you launch out on the upper face. The rest of the gear is standard Gunks rack.

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#66988 - 12/02/12 02:49 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: RangerRob]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
Interesting. Time was when WR would have been flamed to a cinder, or at least thwown to the gwound woughly for asking for specific beta before even trying. Responses such as "If you have to ask", or just "Harden the fuck up, Australia" come to mind.

But here we have a good thread of helpful responses. I'm almost tearing up.

So, concur with Rob. A red Alien/0.5 cam is handy down low, once you pull up into the crack there is a perfect small nut placement. With that in I don't bother with Rob's cam in the shallow slot, though if you need to sew then blast ahead. Your second may thank you for it as well. I find that the key move is getting my feet up onto the small holds to get set up for the reach left. Once you stand up its all over as the handholds for the traverse are huge and the pin is OK. Pull gratefully onto the ledge. The exit moves aren't a gimme but a piece of cake after the crack.

Have fun. Let us know how it goes. And harden the fuck up.

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#66989 - 12/02/12 05:46 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: ianmanger]
worthrussell Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/11/10
Posts: 90
Loc: NY, Brooklyn
Gunks.com seems to be a friendly place,see gear stolen thread. On mountain project im sure I'd be flamed. I appreciate the responses and im a weakling without beta. I'll work on hardening up in the future.

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#66990 - 12/03/12 01:57 AM Re: le teton beta [Re: worthrussell]
pitfall Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/01/00
Posts: 1165
Loc: Albany
Seriously, this is sad. Asking for gear beta is one thing but beta on the climb in general? Have we no standards here people?
_________________________

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#66991 - 12/03/12 02:31 AM Re: le teton beta [Re: pitfall]
socialist1 Offline
member

Registered: 08/05/04
Posts: 147
Loc: New Brunswick, NJ
Originally Posted By: pitfall
Seriously, this is sad. Asking for gear beta is one thing but beta on the climb in general? Have we no standards here people?


Here here. Seriously. Its not complicated, just go have at 'er.

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#67010 - 12/05/12 12:28 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: fotovult]
NYZoo Offline
journeyman

Registered: 07/06/08
Posts: 59
Loc: Gunks
When I did Tetonia I stayed on the right side of the arete the whole way and never touched the crux on Le Teton. I joined Le Teton after it's crux on the arete. I felt is was 5.10 and pumpy. The crux for me was where the arete points out when you are climbing left of Le Tetons crux. Really cool. Do most people join with Le Teton at its crack?

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#67015 - 12/05/12 05:13 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: NYZoo]
TrappDyke Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/10/09
Posts: 80
Somebody pulled a huge block off the lower loose/hollow section on Tetonia in September. My advice would be to weave out left in this section, making it easier, safer, and way less contrived. Except for the fun traverse out left near the top this line tries very hard not to be a full grade easier.

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#67021 - 12/07/12 01:12 AM Re: le teton beta [Re: pitfall]
kenr Offline
newbie

Registered: 10/05/10
Posts: 36
Originally Posted By: pitfall
Have we no standards here people?

I think those Standards went out away past their "tipping point" at least five years ago.
Goes with the principle that "If climbing had no real risk, there would be point in doing it."

Abundantly disproven nowadays by the continuing success and growth of indoor gym climbing. Seems fairly clear that the majority of people who climb regularly in the metro NY/NJ area choose to climb outdoors either Never or Almost Never.
(I heard someone say there was a recent survey finding that majority also for the U.S. climbers nationwide.)

Just go to an indoor gym within 30 miles of Manhattan and randomly ask people if they've climbed in the Gunks. See how many say "What's that?"

Ken

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#67025 - 12/07/12 10:53 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: kenr]
Rickster Online   content
old hand

Registered: 10/16/07
Posts: 853
Loc: Orange Cty, NY
Originally Posted By: kenr

Just go to an indoor gym within 30 miles of Manhattan and randomly ask people if they've climbed in the Gunks. See how many say "What's that?"

Ken


Naw, let's go to any indoor climbing gym within 30 miles of the Gunks and randomly ask people if they've climbed in Manhattan? smile

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#67044 - 12/13/12 09:06 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: pitfall]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2362
Loc: Boston
Originally Posted By: pitfall
Seriously, this is sad. Asking for gear beta is one thing but beta on the climb in general? Have we no standards here people?


These standards are individual. I would never consider making a request like the OP here. For *me*, it would cheapen the ascent, and take away half the fun. But I have no problem with *him* climbing it in any style he wants.

Kind of brings to mind this thread: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1961076/Trad-climbing-Or-is-it

GO

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#67048 - 12/14/12 03:22 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: GOclimb]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Go, you echo my sentiments exactly. To expect others to live up to one's climbing ethics and expectations is not only unreasonable, it borders on haughtiness.

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#67050 - 12/14/12 04:16 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: RangerRob]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
That's using a broad brush to open a can of worms, Rob.


Originally Posted By: RangerRob
Go, you echo my sentiments exactly. To expect others to live up to one's climbing ethics and expectations is not only unreasonable, it borders on haughtiness.

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#67051 - 12/14/12 05:57 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: ianmanger]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2362
Loc: Boston
Originally Posted By: ianmanger
That's using a broad brush to open a can of worms, Rob.


Do they still make those sardine cans that open with a key? If you lost the key, I bet you could use a brush instead. But a broad brush? Now that's going too far - I think a fine brush would be needed.

Wait, what?

G wink

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#67073 - 12/19/12 04:31 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: RangerRob]
pitfall Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/01/00
Posts: 1165
Loc: Albany
Originally Posted By: RangerRob
To expect others to live up to one's climbing ethics and expectations is not only unreasonable, it borders on haughtiness.
If I were to say that my standard is higher, but it's okay for someone to have a lesser one, seems pretty haughty to me... But that's just how I would see it if I were to make such a statement. I respect your opinion. wink
_________________________

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#67153 - 01/02/13 11:12 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: pitfall]
browndog2 Offline
old hand

Registered: 04/24/01
Posts: 767
Loc: livin' on the edge
Still, witnessing the Gunks.community responding helpfully if not lovingly was a bit of a shock. Pleasant but shocking. Prob wont last tho. Next beta quest will be met with the standard "Stay the f in the gym you p."

oh and i usually open my can of worms w my nut tool


Edited by browndog2 (01/02/13 11:13 PM)
_________________________
(not that there's anything wrong with that...sorta)

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