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#67035 - 12/11/12 08:16 PM How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next?
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 714
Loc: NYC
It will be in the high thirties this weekend, and I won't be able to climb during either of the following two weekends, so I think it is safe for me to say I've done all the rock climbing I can in 2012. My year was pretty good, how was yours?

I felt like I didn't get out enough this year. In the Gunks I mostly did 5.9's I'd previously missed and walked up to "easy" 5.10's and tried them out. I got a few of them clean, like Dat-Mantel (after an earlier toprope), the Dangler, and the first pitch of Splashtic. I backed off of some others, like Simple Stuff. I succeeded after a few tries at the crux on Balrog. And I got my ass kicked by Doubleissima. I will be back to get that one. I blew my redpoint attempt on Wegetables, but that one is just a matter of time.

I think my best day in the Gunks all year was my first real climbing day back in March-- I did CCK Direct onsight and finally got to do Modern Times. I can't think of a better day than that; I wish I could go do it again right now, today.

I never got back to climb in the Adirondacks this year, which is a bummer. I did get to spend four days in Little & Big Cottonwood Canyons in Utah, which was really fun, and I climbed for two days in Colorado near Boulder. The highlight was the fantastic Yellow Spur in Eldo.

I hope to get super fit over the winter and keep plugging away at the 5.10's. And I want to plan some trips back to Colorado and to Squamish if possible.

Your turn!
It's true, I have a blog.

#67036 - 12/11/12 10:19 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: SethG]
KathyS Offline

Registered: 01/10/08
Posts: 196
Loc: NY, USA
Once again, I achieved my perenial #1 goal, which was to avoid any appearance in ANAM. All else is gravy.

Highlight of the year was celebrating my 50th birthday on top of Mount Whitney in April, on a crisp, bluebird day. It was my first mountaineering trip, in which I learned I need to pack lighter (61 lbs = too much stuff!)

I followed that with an encore trip to Mt. Rainier with Carolyn R. and Christine W. in August. We were blessed with clear warm weather the whole trip. My pack weighed less, but still needs a diet.

Between those two trips was a 5-day horsepack trip in the Sangre de Christo Mountains with my oldest sister. Lots of time at high elevation for me this year.

On rock, I got comfortable leading, and occasionally onsighting, 5.5. Working my way up slowly... Also, followed my first 5.9, Directissima.


#67039 - 12/13/12 01:58 AM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: KathyS]
Julie Offline

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
Hrm. I avoided ... getting back into ANAM? Though it was nice of them to publish my ramblings.

2012 wasn't my best year climbing but I did get back out. The first day we got out, a weekday in March, I hobbled down to the Ufall and managed to follow Bunny, Rhododendron and Frog's Head (and rappeled, without Xanax, though it was a close call. I think I had 4 backups while getting on rappel).

The rest of the year was lots of ups and downs, gladly none directly to the ground. I'm still so easily exhausted, but I can make it through an almost-normal number of pitches in a day by now and I seem to be about as flexible as ever. Sadly, either I'm a bit shorter or Snooky's is a bit taller, and now that crux move is just out of my reach frown.

It felt like an accomplishment to get to where I could confidently follow Something Interesting -- I don't like to fall out of sight of a belayer there. I got back up on the sharp end, with Ribs at first, which is not as well-protected as I remember it, and eventually Fingerlocks which is as well-protected as I remembered, and Jackie.

Next year it would be great to climb more. That is all!

#67041 - 12/13/12 05:16 AM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: Julie]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 714
Loc: NYC
Good for you, Julie. Keep at it!
It's true, I have a blog.

#67045 - 12/13/12 10:54 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: SethG]
GOclimb Offline

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2362
Loc: Boston
Thanks for starting the thread. I always like hearing about everyone else's exploits, I like the opportunity to think back on the year I had, and also think about the year to come.

My biggest goals for this last year were to avoid further injuries, and do something about my nagging back troubles. I'd say I succeeded reasonably well on both counts. My back is still troublesome, but as long as I keep up my exercises, it's not bad enough to keep me from climbing.

Beyond that, my big goal was to climb the Nose on El Cap. Well I gave it a good try, but my partner and I only made it halfway up. Very disappointing but it was still super fun. And I'd like to try again soon, before I forget everything I learned.

Beyond that, a few highlights.

I got out maybe 60-70 days this year - not bad.

Finally sent Quarter of a Man at Indian Creek, on my third attempt in as many years. I actually built a little crack machine in my garage to prepare for this one!

A few other favorite climbs I got on this year: Excuse Station, Comic Relief, Johnny Cat, Slot Machine, and Desert Vuarnet (Indian Creek); Wunsch's Dihedral (S. Platte); Exasperator and University Wall (Squamish); The Bends (Devil's Head)

And I got to visit some new to me areas: Squamish, Vedauwoo, Empire (CO), Lime Creek (CO), El Rito (NM).

Goals for next year? So much depends on my partners. We'll see.

But I have set a birthday challenge. I turn 43 this year, and I hope to have sent 43 5.12 routes (lifetime, not just this year) by my birthday. So far, lifetime, I'm a little over halfway there. So there's a good chance I will fail, but... we shall see.


#67047 - 12/14/12 12:29 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: GOclimb]
LarE Offline

Registered: 10/16/08
Posts: 45
Lousy. Barely got out at all, maybe six half-days total. Funny how life gets in the way... home-ownership, going back to school, and being the father of a toddler all conspire against climbing. Did some pull-ups the other week for the first time in ages, and was treated to a rude awakening.

Hoping to get out a little more next year.

#67052 - 12/14/12 06:05 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: LarE]
phlan Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 02/11/00
Posts: 2778
Loc: Gardiner, NY
overall I've never had a more wonderful year... but yes, as LarE says marriage and kid have their effect, stayed home with our sick kid yesterday and wanted to get out biking for an hour and found my bike in the garage with tires flat! as for climbing - it's gone from almost nothing for a year or two (after years of nonstop climbing) to now I can climb at a respectable (for me) level of climbing that makes me happy. my wife is the best, most patient and supportive climbing parter I ever had, and we get out often enough. Now, if can get to climbing a little faster... but who cares, that was always my problem. (not having any illusions, ever of doing El Cap - never mind in a day.)
Support Your Local Farmer!

#67054 - 12/15/12 04:17 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: phlan]
rg@ofmc Online   content

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2472
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
A tough year for me. I ruptured my ACL and tore up parts of the menisci on a very short jump in the gym at the end of last January. I think a squishy pad was actually the reason for the injury; it allowed my ankle to roll inward, leading to an unfavorable displacement of the knee.

An operation and lots of rehab have followed. After about seven months, I got back on the rock a few times at the end of the summer, getting back to leading around 5.8. Although the repaired knee works pretty well for climbing, it still doesn't stand up to impacts, and so running and jumping rope are still not possible for me, and even a short jump off something seems inadvisable.

The Fall turned out to be too busy for me to climb much except in the gym. The seven-month layoff for my hands led to a decline in hand endurance which, at my advanced age, has turned out to be very hard to build back up, and at the ten-month mark since the operation, I am still projecting many of the 5.10's in the gym because of diminished endurance.

Not that I'm complaining, mind you. Life is good, and the climbing mindset has everything to do with dealing with what is. Barring more complications, there's a chance I can be back to my former still-modest climbing levels by the Spring.

#67062 - 12/17/12 08:05 AM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: rg@ofmc]
greyalien Offline

Registered: 05/06/05
Posts: 86
Loc: Central NJ and Upstate NY
This year was pretty good. Ill break it down with the BAD first;

1) My endurance has really been lacking, it was shot after a year abroad (no climbing) and I have mostly bouldered around home and inconsistently gotten on trad routes since.
2) I straight up did not climb enough, no regular gym routine to train, etc.

Ok the GOOD =)

1) I sent New Pair of Glasses! Best boulder problem I've ever done in my life and my first of the grade at the gunks. Took about 4 days of effort. I was so unbelievably pumped on the topout (see #1 bad above). I guess I retained a good amount of technique and even gained some to compensate for my weak arms.
2) I redpointed birdcage. Blew the onsight a few weeks earlier (see #1 and #2 bad above), made it through the crux traverse just fine but couldn't hang on to pull over the roof, took a nice lob and then finished it.
3) Had a productive trip to the new! Followed some 11s and had a spectacular day deep water soloing! (best climbing trip ever?)
4) I also sent my longtime home area bouldering project from the low (best) start and have it dialed now. Got some cool footage of it over thanksgiving, so I have some inspiration saved for the long winter ahead.

Overall a solid year, heres hoping that 2013 will be even better. My Goals;

1) Climb el cap again (lol... maybe)
2) Lead the yellow wall (lololol yeah right)... maybe carbs and caffein will go.
3) Finally lead the sting without one hanging it (reconsult #1 bad above).
4) If I manage to keep getting up gunks 5.9 on the sharp end I'll be a happy camper.

Congrats to everyone else on their accomplishments and good luck next season!
- Will

#67064 - 12/17/12 08:18 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: rg@ofmc]
Frank Florence Online   content

Registered: 01/05/00
Posts: 529
Loc: moved to Bend
First a comment to RG: we climbed adjacent to one another one day this fall. You were on Alphonse as I recall. What was obvious from the way you moved up was the relaxed fluidity that speaks to years of experience. Lingering effects of your knee operation were not outwardly visible.

I can also speak of injuries, although mine happened in the late fall of 2011. A loss of footing, a popped cam, and I went ass over teakettle into an oak with my back hard enough to break a scapula. So my spring start-up was slow as I nursed a weak back and a weakened sense of confidence. Add to that the awkward schedule of working alternating semesters in Oregon and New York and I barely got out to the Gunks at all before September. The little I did on May was cautious and with trepidation.

But my time in the west this summer was great. While there's certainly volcanic choss in the Cascades, I've begun to learn about the stellar climbing on the basalts at Trout Creek mesa. I also indulged my pleasure in summiting snowy peaks. The highlight of this year's mountaineering came when I climbed with an old friend in Idaho and we put together a line on the East face of Borah Peak that he'd been eyeing for over three decades. Completing the route meant climbing over a dozen pitches of rock, snow, and even 25 m of water ice in a gully, surviving a cavalcade of rocks unintentionally showered down on us by trundlers on the summit, weathering an afternoon snow squall, and completing a descent as tedious as any in the Rockies before making it back to camp by headlamp after 18 hours on the go.

The positive note to the autumn didn't have so much to do with my climbing achievements as with my climbing attitude. When I came back east, I was without a regular partner. By good fortune I met up with an engineering student who has been interning in an upstate plant. We only teamed up for a few trips together, but his enthusiasm and willingness to hang it out there in one onsight attempt after another helped light a fire under me. It was a hoot to re-visit some of the classics in the Trapps and the Nears and swing leads with someone excited by the challenge of devouring as many multi-starred routes as possible in a day. Now, if I can only keep that high energy level going until spring….

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