Shout Box

Who's Online
0 registered (), 9 Guests and 1 Spider online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Page 3 of 4 < 1 2 3 4 >
Topic Options
#67092 - 12/22/12 02:46 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: kenr]
acrophobe Online   content
stranger

Registered: 07/26/05
Posts: 4
Loc: CT
I believe that the name of the Italian company that makes the Alpine Up is "Climbing Technology."

Top
#67093 - 12/22/12 04:06 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: acrophobe]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2467
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Yes, my bad. As for engineering degrees, you thread it the same way you thread a tube; there's nothing to it. If you somehow manage to thread it the wrong way (which seems impossible to me), you still have something with the friction of a tube-style device.

Warning: it ain't cheap, small, or light. You're basically getting a gri-gri for double ropes (except that it handles better than a gri-gri in my opinion). Looking at picture isn't going to help, you really have to try it out to see how much better than most other devices it is.

Here's a link to the Rock and Snow page, which, I think, simply repeats the manufacturer's blurb.

http://www.rockandsnow.com/store/product/63322/Climbing-Technology-Alpine-Up-Belay-Device/

Top
#67094 - 12/22/12 06:49 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: rg@ofmc]
Rickster Offline
old hand

Registered: 10/16/07
Posts: 845
Loc: Orange Cty, NY
Thank you RG, so in review, simple to use, near idiot proof, and multi purpose. So all I'll need is a wealthy sherpa to pay for it and lug it around for me.

Maybe I'll just find someone who doesn't mind my continued use of a hip belay.

Top
#67095 - 12/22/12 10:59 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: Rickster]
TerrieM Offline
addict

Registered: 05/14/09
Posts: 425
Loc: Gunks in Summer, Southwest in ...
For a couple reasons, I did not climb nearly enough this year. Now I finally got on a route yesterday, after arriving in Joshua Tree like 2 weeks ago.

Definitely need to get back on the horse and ride.

But, I did show up every time this season for trailwork, so at least I got that workout, and to talk to people I don't see other than at the crag. Still,enough people said "Haven't seen you and Teddy at the cliffs" to know I had been derelict in my climbing life.

Top
#67096 - 12/23/12 12:14 AM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: TerrieM]
wivanov Online   content
newbie

Registered: 05/01/12
Posts: 25
Loc: CT
2012.... I climbed pretty well. Got to the Gunks more than usual. Had fun at Acadia. Things were going pretty well.

Then I had heart surgery in November (google "widow-maker"), my dad died two weeks later after a long illness. We had to cancel/postpone our December trip to Central America and the Mayan ruins until after the end of the world.

In cardiac rehab now. Hoping to be able to start climbing again soon.

Top
#67097 - 12/23/12 03:14 AM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: Rickster]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2467
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Vivanoff: Holy shit---glad to hear you're ok and on the mend, but sorry to hear about your Dad.


Top
#67098 - 12/23/12 03:16 AM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: Rickster]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2467
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Originally Posted By: Rickster

Maybe I'll just find someone who doesn't mind my continued use of a hip belay.


Try to catch a big fall on a single 8mm strand with a hip belay and you're gonna have one toasted tushy, unless you quick set aside your alpenstock and adjust the suspenders on those inch-thick boiled-wool knickers.

Top
#67099 - 12/23/12 02:02 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: rg@ofmc]
wivanov Online   content
newbie

Registered: 05/01/12
Posts: 25
Loc: CT
Originally Posted By: rg@ofmc
Vivanoff: Holy shit---glad to hear you're ok and on the mend, but sorry to hear about your Dad.


Thank you, Richard.

Dad's passing was expected - a relief, actually. He suffered with severe dementia for 7 or 8 years. Didn't recognize anyone. He wasn't even speaking at the end. In the hospital with bacterial pneumonia. Then home on O2, morphine and catheter with Hospice involved.

OTOH, my heart problems were a complete surprise given my fitness, diet and overall health. Feeling much better now after the stent was put in. Central America trip is rescheduled for January. But, I'm a bit concerned about leading when on heavy duty anti-coagulants for the next year frown

- Bill

Top
#67100 - 12/23/12 02:34 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: rg@ofmc]
Rickster Offline
old hand

Registered: 10/16/07
Posts: 845
Loc: Orange Cty, NY
Originally Posted By: rg@ofmc
Originally Posted By: Rickster

Maybe I'll just find someone who doesn't mind my continued use of a hip belay.


Try to catch a big fall on a single 8mm strand with a hip belay and you're gonna have one toasted tushy, unless you quick set aside your alpenstock and adjust the suspenders on those inch-thick boiled-wool knickers.


No whimpy 8 mm for me, I still use my trusty Chouinard 11mm circa '73, with all the fuzz, it feels all so comfy in the palm and it still has a nice stiff hand, well maybe just a bit too stiff now a days. And, what's wrong with suspenders and boiled knickers? whistle

Top
#67101 - 12/23/12 04:20 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: Rickster]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2467
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
I still have a wonderful boiled-wool Dachstein sweater. Warm enough to bivouac in, but it weighs a ton (dry) and takes up most of your pack if you ever take it off. I also have a beautiful pair of Chouinard corduroy knickers, made from heritage corduroy from one of the remaining dedicated mills in the U.K. The old stuff is nice, but many things have improved since the days we know are old and like to think of as good.

My post was in response to Phlan's remark about getting back to half ropes, which nowadays are 8.5mm and under. I've caught a factor-2 fall with a hip belay with a rope like Rick's 11mm fuzzy, but I don't think that's gonna work with today's half ropes.

More to the point, I think you have maybe a 50-50 chance of holding a big fall on a single 8.5mm or less strand with a modern reverso or BD XP. The reverso, if you read the fine print, is not even rated to hold falls on a single 8.5mm strand.

The Alpine Up is an assisted locking device, which I think are the wave of the future in belaying anyway. What makes it head and shoulders above any of the others is that it enables the complicated taking in and pumping out of rope needed for belaying the leader on doubles without imposing extremely awkward hand motions and the catching, grabbing, and subsequent short-roping of the leader that comes with that awkwardness.

The only real competition at the moment is the Mammut Smart Alpine, and it doesn't come close to the performance of the UP.

Top
Page 3 of 4 < 1 2 3 4 >


Moderator:  webmaster 
Sponsored