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#67035 - 12/11/12 08:16 PM How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next?
SethG Online   content
addict

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 680
Loc: NYC
It will be in the high thirties this weekend, and I won't be able to climb during either of the following two weekends, so I think it is safe for me to say I've done all the rock climbing I can in 2012. My year was pretty good, how was yours?

I felt like I didn't get out enough this year. In the Gunks I mostly did 5.9's I'd previously missed and walked up to "easy" 5.10's and tried them out. I got a few of them clean, like Dat-Mantel (after an earlier toprope), the Dangler, and the first pitch of Splashtic. I backed off of some others, like Simple Stuff. I succeeded after a few tries at the crux on Balrog. And I got my ass kicked by Doubleissima. I will be back to get that one. I blew my redpoint attempt on Wegetables, but that one is just a matter of time.

I think my best day in the Gunks all year was my first real climbing day back in March-- I did CCK Direct onsight and finally got to do Modern Times. I can't think of a better day than that; I wish I could go do it again right now, today.

I never got back to climb in the Adirondacks this year, which is a bummer. I did get to spend four days in Little & Big Cottonwood Canyons in Utah, which was really fun, and I climbed for two days in Colorado near Boulder. The highlight was the fantastic Yellow Spur in Eldo.

I hope to get super fit over the winter and keep plugging away at the 5.10's. And I want to plan some trips back to Colorado and to Squamish if possible.

Your turn!
_________________________
It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

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#67036 - 12/11/12 10:19 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: SethG]
KathyS Offline
member

Registered: 01/10/08
Posts: 190
Loc: NY, USA
Once again, I achieved my perenial #1 goal, which was to avoid any appearance in ANAM. All else is gravy.

Highlight of the year was celebrating my 50th birthday on top of Mount Whitney in April, on a crisp, bluebird day. It was my first mountaineering trip, in which I learned I need to pack lighter (61 lbs = too much stuff!)

I followed that with an encore trip to Mt. Rainier with Carolyn R. and Christine W. in August. We were blessed with clear warm weather the whole trip. My pack weighed less, but still needs a diet.

Between those two trips was a 5-day horsepack trip in the Sangre de Christo Mountains with my oldest sister. Lots of time at high elevation for me this year.

On rock, I got comfortable leading, and occasionally onsighting, 5.5. Working my way up slowly... Also, followed my first 5.9, Directissima.

Kathy

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#67039 - 12/13/12 01:58 AM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: KathyS]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2082
Loc: SoCal
Hrm. I avoided ... getting back into ANAM? Though it was nice of them to publish my ramblings.

2012 wasn't my best year climbing but I did get back out. The first day we got out, a weekday in March, I hobbled down to the Ufall and managed to follow Bunny, Rhododendron and Frog's Head (and rappeled, without Xanax, though it was a close call. I think I had 4 backups while getting on rappel).

The rest of the year was lots of ups and downs, gladly none directly to the ground. I'm still so easily exhausted, but I can make it through an almost-normal number of pitches in a day by now and I seem to be about as flexible as ever. Sadly, either I'm a bit shorter or Snooky's is a bit taller, and now that crux move is just out of my reach frown.

It felt like an accomplishment to get to where I could confidently follow Something Interesting -- I don't like to fall out of sight of a belayer there. I got back up on the sharp end, with Ribs at first, which is not as well-protected as I remember it, and eventually Fingerlocks which is as well-protected as I remembered, and Jackie.

Next year it would be great to climb more. That is all!

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#67041 - 12/13/12 05:16 AM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: Julie]
SethG Online   content
addict

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 680
Loc: NYC
Good for you, Julie. Keep at it!
_________________________
It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

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#67045 - 12/13/12 10:54 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: SethG]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2354
Loc: Boston
Thanks for starting the thread. I always like hearing about everyone else's exploits, I like the opportunity to think back on the year I had, and also think about the year to come.

My biggest goals for this last year were to avoid further injuries, and do something about my nagging back troubles. I'd say I succeeded reasonably well on both counts. My back is still troublesome, but as long as I keep up my exercises, it's not bad enough to keep me from climbing.

Beyond that, my big goal was to climb the Nose on El Cap. Well I gave it a good try, but my partner and I only made it halfway up. Very disappointing but it was still super fun. And I'd like to try again soon, before I forget everything I learned.

Beyond that, a few highlights.

I got out maybe 60-70 days this year - not bad.

Finally sent Quarter of a Man at Indian Creek, on my third attempt in as many years. I actually built a little crack machine in my garage to prepare for this one!

A few other favorite climbs I got on this year: Excuse Station, Comic Relief, Johnny Cat, Slot Machine, and Desert Vuarnet (Indian Creek); Wunsch's Dihedral (S. Platte); Exasperator and University Wall (Squamish); The Bends (Devil's Head)

And I got to visit some new to me areas: Squamish, Vedauwoo, Empire (CO), Lime Creek (CO), El Rito (NM).

Goals for next year? So much depends on my partners. We'll see.

But I have set a birthday challenge. I turn 43 this year, and I hope to have sent 43 5.12 routes (lifetime, not just this year) by my birthday. So far, lifetime, I'm a little over halfway there. So there's a good chance I will fail, but... we shall see.

GO

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#67047 - 12/14/12 12:29 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: GOclimb]
LarE Offline
newbie

Registered: 10/16/08
Posts: 45
Lousy. Barely got out at all, maybe six half-days total. Funny how life gets in the way... home-ownership, going back to school, and being the father of a toddler all conspire against climbing. Did some pull-ups the other week for the first time in ages, and was treated to a rude awakening.

Hoping to get out a little more next year.

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#67052 - 12/14/12 06:05 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: LarE]
phlan Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 02/11/00
Posts: 2776
Loc: Gardiner, NY
overall I've never had a more wonderful year... but yes, as LarE says marriage and kid have their effect, stayed home with our sick kid yesterday and wanted to get out biking for an hour and found my bike in the garage with tires flat! as for climbing - it's gone from almost nothing for a year or two (after years of nonstop climbing) to now I can climb at a respectable (for me) level of climbing that makes me happy. my wife is the best, most patient and supportive climbing parter I ever had, and we get out often enough. Now, if can get to climbing a little faster... but who cares, that was always my problem. (not having any illusions, ever of doing El Cap - never mind in a day.)
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#67054 - 12/15/12 04:17 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: phlan]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2454
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
A tough year for me. I ruptured my ACL and tore up parts of the menisci on a very short jump in the gym at the end of last January. I think a squishy pad was actually the reason for the injury; it allowed my ankle to roll inward, leading to an unfavorable displacement of the knee.

An operation and lots of rehab have followed. After about seven months, I got back on the rock a few times at the end of the summer, getting back to leading around 5.8. Although the repaired knee works pretty well for climbing, it still doesn't stand up to impacts, and so running and jumping rope are still not possible for me, and even a short jump off something seems inadvisable.

The Fall turned out to be too busy for me to climb much except in the gym. The seven-month layoff for my hands led to a decline in hand endurance which, at my advanced age, has turned out to be very hard to build back up, and at the ten-month mark since the operation, I am still projecting many of the 5.10's in the gym because of diminished endurance.

Not that I'm complaining, mind you. Life is good, and the climbing mindset has everything to do with dealing with what is. Barring more complications, there's a chance I can be back to my former still-modest climbing levels by the Spring.

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#67062 - 12/17/12 08:05 AM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: rg@ofmc]
greyalien Offline
journeyman

Registered: 05/06/05
Posts: 86
Loc: Central NJ and Upstate NY
This year was pretty good. Ill break it down with the BAD first;

1) My endurance has really been lacking, it was shot after a year abroad (no climbing) and I have mostly bouldered around home and inconsistently gotten on trad routes since.
2) I straight up did not climb enough, no regular gym routine to train, etc.

Ok the GOOD =)

1) I sent New Pair of Glasses! Best boulder problem I've ever done in my life and my first of the grade at the gunks. Took about 4 days of effort. I was so unbelievably pumped on the topout (see #1 bad above). I guess I retained a good amount of technique and even gained some to compensate for my weak arms.
2) I redpointed birdcage. Blew the onsight a few weeks earlier (see #1 and #2 bad above), made it through the crux traverse just fine but couldn't hang on to pull over the roof, took a nice lob and then finished it.
3) Had a productive trip to the new! Followed some 11s and had a spectacular day deep water soloing! (best climbing trip ever?)
4) I also sent my longtime home area bouldering project from the low (best) start and have it dialed now. Got some cool footage of it over thanksgiving, so I have some inspiration saved for the long winter ahead.

Overall a solid year, heres hoping that 2013 will be even better. My Goals;

1) Climb el cap again (lol... maybe)
2) Lead the yellow wall (lololol yeah right)... maybe carbs and caffein will go.
3) Finally lead the sting without one hanging it (reconsult #1 bad above).
4) If I manage to keep getting up gunks 5.9 on the sharp end I'll be a happy camper.

Congrats to everyone else on their accomplishments and good luck next season!
_________________________
- Will

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#67064 - 12/17/12 08:18 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: rg@ofmc]
Frank Florence Offline
addict

Registered: 01/05/00
Posts: 528
Loc: moved to Bend
First a comment to RG: we climbed adjacent to one another one day this fall. You were on Alphonse as I recall. What was obvious from the way you moved up was the relaxed fluidity that speaks to years of experience. Lingering effects of your knee operation were not outwardly visible.

I can also speak of injuries, although mine happened in the late fall of 2011. A loss of footing, a popped cam, and I went ass over teakettle into an oak with my back hard enough to break a scapula. So my spring start-up was slow as I nursed a weak back and a weakened sense of confidence. Add to that the awkward schedule of working alternating semesters in Oregon and New York and I barely got out to the Gunks at all before September. The little I did on May was cautious and with trepidation.

But my time in the west this summer was great. While there's certainly volcanic choss in the Cascades, I've begun to learn about the stellar climbing on the basalts at Trout Creek mesa. I also indulged my pleasure in summiting snowy peaks. The highlight of this year's mountaineering came when I climbed with an old friend in Idaho and we put together a line on the East face of Borah Peak that he'd been eyeing for over three decades. Completing the route meant climbing over a dozen pitches of rock, snow, and even 25 m of water ice in a gully, surviving a cavalcade of rocks unintentionally showered down on us by trundlers on the summit, weathering an afternoon snow squall, and completing a descent as tedious as any in the Rockies before making it back to camp by headlamp after 18 hours on the go.

The positive note to the autumn didn't have so much to do with my climbing achievements as with my climbing attitude. When I came back east, I was without a regular partner. By good fortune I met up with an engineering student who has been interning in an upstate plant. We only teamed up for a few trips together, but his enthusiasm and willingness to hang it out there in one onsight attempt after another helped light a fire under me. It was a hoot to re-visit some of the classics in the Trapps and the Nears and swing leads with someone excited by the challenge of devouring as many multi-starred routes as possible in a day. Now, if I can only keep that high energy level going until spring….

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#67065 - 12/18/12 01:54 AM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: Frank Florence]
gunkette Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/23/11
Posts: 21
This year turned out well, but unfolded differently than I had planned.

I planned to break in to leading 5.7s this year, and hoped to lead CCK by the end of the season. I did manage to lead 5.7, but CCK remains on the ticklist. I did, however, manage to break into 5.8s, which were not on the radar! I had great outings on Arrow and Snooky's Return, among a smattering of other easy, well-protected 5.8s.

I had hoped to get back to Seneca this year, but those plans were thwarted by a family emergency. I did get down to El Potrero Chico, which was great! The only place in the world where I can onsight 5.10b. laugh I also got to go to the Daks for the first time this year. Had a great day at Pitchoff on Great Chimney and Pete's Farewell, even if P2 of Pete's was a LOT of work.

I am still working on my vertical crack technique. Jamming seems like it should be intuitive, but for some reason, it's bloody hard!! I feel pretty confident with the occasional fingerlock or foot jam, but sustained jamming tends to shut me down. Maybe I should plan a visit to the Creek next year?

I had hoped to break in to leading some 5.10s at Rumney this summer, but a combination of elbow tendinitis and ridiculously hot weather shut me down there, too. Oh well...the rock will still be there next year.

I'm hoping that the off-season will give a chance to rest and strengthen my elbow. Planning to get on CCK next season, and keep ticking off more 8's...Hopefully get some weekends in to Rumney and Seneca...Planning a trip to Red Rocks and setting my sights on Jubilant Song...and maybe get rid of these tendon issues! Here's to next year!!

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#67066 - 12/18/12 05:55 AM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: greyalien]
mgree Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/08/12
Posts: 10
Loc: Philadelphia, PA
Nice summaries!

This year was excellent for me. 2010 was my first year of climbing, 2011 was my first year of Gunksy adventure, but 2012 was the year that I really started to mature. Early in the year I led High E, and on what ended up being my last outing, I onsighted Arrow, my first 5.8 at the Gunks. Throw in a number of other onsights of truly fantastic classics---Yellow Ridge, Something Interesting, Thin Slabs, Moonlight, Ken's Crack, etc. etc. etc.---and follows of some hard stuff---Nosedive, Retribution, Welcome to the Gunks, Feast of Fools, Balrog---and, all in all, it's been an amazing year.

The only downside is that my partner moved out west. While he can't be replaced (hi John, if you're reading this!), I'm excited to start going out with the crew from my local gym---and getting on some more fun, hard climbs.

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#67067 - 12/18/12 06:22 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: mgree]
kenr Offline
newbie

Registered: 10/05/10
Posts: 33
Yes fall of 2010 was when I started climbing really seriously (after several previous temporary not-very-serious phases).

And climbing in the Gunks this year was so much fun in so many different ways -- leading easy routes with Sharon, TR hard routes, trying out Aid climbing, rope-solo leading, exploring non-guidebook sectors, and adding to my free-solo circuit.

Just wish there had been _more_ of each thing. Main problem was Rain. Too many free days lost or shortened.
reflections:
* I keep trying new places nearby (PA, Dacks) and far away (France, Dolomites) and finding very fun + different climbing. I come back to the Gunks and it still seems great.

* easy/mod climbing (and down-climbing) in the Gunks is excellent training for alpine routes.

surprises:
* I made so little progress in "working my up thru the grades" in trad Leading. Mainly from rain, also because esp in this Fall I got focused on raising my Following difficulty grade (to be compatible with partners + typical routes for trips), but also because the good easy climbs in the Gunks are really fun. So the gap between my Follow/TR grade and my trad Lead grade is getting embarrassing.

* I'm still not "really solid" on 10a. Sort of funny because lotsa years ago when I first tried rock-climbing non-seriously, we thought of 5.10 as like super-human. Nowadays in lots of climbing regions outside the Gunks, "real climbing begins at 10a" (or Euro 6a).
Anyway it seems funny that I can now be wondering and complaining that "Here I've been climbing more than two years and I _still_ can't follow on-sight any 10a that I try".

What's next?
Sorta thinking of cool dry winter weather with no snow yet as a good excuse for working on Aid climbing and adding to my solo circuit. And I'm thinking spring+summer next year in the Gunks more leading, perhaps more easy soloing as prep for alpine, less focus on raising difficulty.

Ken

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#67068 - 12/18/12 07:49 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: Frank Florence]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2454
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Originally Posted By: Frank Florence
First a comment to RG: we climbed adjacent to one another one day this fall. You were on Alphonse as I recall. What was obvious from the way you moved up was the relaxed fluidity that speaks to years of experience. Lingering effects of your knee operation were not outwardly visible.


Yes, Frank, I remember. I think you were on Grand Central. That day was the first day I tested out my repaired knee leading 5.8ish climbs (Te Dum, Alphonse, Yellow Belly), the previous three outdoor climbing days having been devoted to leading climbs 5.5 and under. Although I don't know about fluid, you can get away with technique, which doesn't go away, on many routes 5.8 and under. But starting around 5.9 in the Gunks, hand-endurance comes into play on most routes, even if your technique is good, and that is where the seven-month layoff has affected me the most.

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#67071 - 12/19/12 07:24 AM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: rg@ofmc]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 223
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Most of my fun in 2012 occurred away from the Gunks and it happened over several weeks in the summer when I went to Bozeman, Washington, and Squamish. Great friends, good routes, and $1 gin & tonics.

As for the Gunks, the only memorable new route that I climbed was Swing Time in the Nears. Onsighting the second pitch and then helping carry out Joe Szott's body from further down the cliff made for a strange day.

I'm at a point here where I've climbed everything that I'm really inspired to climb - most of my fun comes in repeating my favorite routes with my favorite partners (to protect the innocent, I'll leave their names out of this): Erect Direction, Son of Easy O, Graveyard Shift, High E, Interstice, Tough Shift, Mother's Day, Madame G's, Arrow, Three Doves, Never Never Land, Birdcage, Transcon, Welcome, Jaccuse, Spring/Winter link up, Star Action, Wasp. I'm so lucky to live here and have these routes punctuate my weeks and to have such easy access that is crucial given that I only have a few hours to rope up.

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#67082 - 12/21/12 05:38 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: Lucander]
phlan Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 02/11/00
Posts: 2776
Loc: Gardiner, NY
wow, I was lucky enough to spend some time climbing at the Mac Wall this Wed. afternoon with some friends. I felt good on those climbs, really good, almost as solid as ever. that will be my last time out this year - ending on a great note.

Actually next year we're getting double ropes. I know it will make me more comfortable leading, from past experience with them. it will take a bit of getting used to working with them as a team, as my wife is new to them. so we'll start on easy climbs. but we're both excited about it!!

Happy Holidays, all!
_________________________
Support Your Local Farmer!

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#67084 - 12/21/12 08:14 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: phlan]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2454
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Get one of these---best belay device out there for half ropes.


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#67086 - 12/22/12 02:35 AM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: rg@ofmc]
kenr Offline
newbie

Registered: 10/05/10
Posts: 33
Who's the manufacturer? (unfortunately I can't figure out the fine print in that image)

What makes it better than the latest Petzl Reverso (which most French climbers at least use with half-ropes)

Thanks,

Ken

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#67087 - 12/22/12 02:55 AM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: kenr]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2454
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
It's made by an Italian firm, Alpine Technology. Rock and Snow has them, I think...I originally asked them to order one for me.

It is an assisted-locking device, which makes it totally different from Reversos or other tube-style gadgets. With today's thinner ropes, I think assisted locking is the wave of the future.

Unlike other assisted locking devices like the Mammut Smart Alpine, this one feeds rope out perfectly with virtually no catching. It also has a non-locking mode and an upper-belay-off-the anchor mode. It's just a better mousetrap.

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#67090 - 12/22/12 01:49 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: rg@ofmc]
Rickster Offline
old hand

Registered: 10/16/07
Posts: 815
Loc: Orange Cty, NY
Does Alpine Tech offer online courses for those of us who lack engineering degrees?

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#67092 - 12/22/12 02:46 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: kenr]
acrophobe Online   content
stranger

Registered: 07/26/05
Posts: 4
Loc: CT
I believe that the name of the Italian company that makes the Alpine Up is "Climbing Technology."

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#67093 - 12/22/12 04:06 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: acrophobe]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2454
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Yes, my bad. As for engineering degrees, you thread it the same way you thread a tube; there's nothing to it. If you somehow manage to thread it the wrong way (which seems impossible to me), you still have something with the friction of a tube-style device.

Warning: it ain't cheap, small, or light. You're basically getting a gri-gri for double ropes (except that it handles better than a gri-gri in my opinion). Looking at picture isn't going to help, you really have to try it out to see how much better than most other devices it is.

Here's a link to the Rock and Snow page, which, I think, simply repeats the manufacturer's blurb.

http://www.rockandsnow.com/store/product/63322/Climbing-Technology-Alpine-Up-Belay-Device/

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#67094 - 12/22/12 06:49 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: rg@ofmc]
Rickster Offline
old hand

Registered: 10/16/07
Posts: 815
Loc: Orange Cty, NY
Thank you RG, so in review, simple to use, near idiot proof, and multi purpose. So all I'll need is a wealthy sherpa to pay for it and lug it around for me.

Maybe I'll just find someone who doesn't mind my continued use of a hip belay.

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#67095 - 12/22/12 10:59 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: Rickster]
TerrieM Online   content
addict

Registered: 05/14/09
Posts: 419
Loc: Gunks in Summer, Southwest in ...
For a couple reasons, I did not climb nearly enough this year. Now I finally got on a route yesterday, after arriving in Joshua Tree like 2 weeks ago.

Definitely need to get back on the horse and ride.

But, I did show up every time this season for trailwork, so at least I got that workout, and to talk to people I don't see other than at the crag. Still,enough people said "Haven't seen you and Teddy at the cliffs" to know I had been derelict in my climbing life.

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#67096 - 12/23/12 12:14 AM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: TerrieM]
wivanov Offline
newbie

Registered: 05/01/12
Posts: 25
Loc: CT
2012.... I climbed pretty well. Got to the Gunks more than usual. Had fun at Acadia. Things were going pretty well.

Then I had heart surgery in November (google "widow-maker"), my dad died two weeks later after a long illness. We had to cancel/postpone our December trip to Central America and the Mayan ruins until after the end of the world.

In cardiac rehab now. Hoping to be able to start climbing again soon.

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#67097 - 12/23/12 03:14 AM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: Rickster]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2454
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Vivanoff: Holy shit---glad to hear you're ok and on the mend, but sorry to hear about your Dad.


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#67098 - 12/23/12 03:16 AM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: Rickster]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2454
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Originally Posted By: Rickster

Maybe I'll just find someone who doesn't mind my continued use of a hip belay.


Try to catch a big fall on a single 8mm strand with a hip belay and you're gonna have one toasted tushy, unless you quick set aside your alpenstock and adjust the suspenders on those inch-thick boiled-wool knickers.

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#67099 - 12/23/12 02:02 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: rg@ofmc]
wivanov Offline
newbie

Registered: 05/01/12
Posts: 25
Loc: CT
Originally Posted By: rg@ofmc
Vivanoff: Holy shit---glad to hear you're ok and on the mend, but sorry to hear about your Dad.


Thank you, Richard.

Dad's passing was expected - a relief, actually. He suffered with severe dementia for 7 or 8 years. Didn't recognize anyone. He wasn't even speaking at the end. In the hospital with bacterial pneumonia. Then home on O2, morphine and catheter with Hospice involved.

OTOH, my heart problems were a complete surprise given my fitness, diet and overall health. Feeling much better now after the stent was put in. Central America trip is rescheduled for January. But, I'm a bit concerned about leading when on heavy duty anti-coagulants for the next year frown

- Bill

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#67100 - 12/23/12 02:34 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: rg@ofmc]
Rickster Offline
old hand

Registered: 10/16/07
Posts: 815
Loc: Orange Cty, NY
Originally Posted By: rg@ofmc
Originally Posted By: Rickster

Maybe I'll just find someone who doesn't mind my continued use of a hip belay.


Try to catch a big fall on a single 8mm strand with a hip belay and you're gonna have one toasted tushy, unless you quick set aside your alpenstock and adjust the suspenders on those inch-thick boiled-wool knickers.


No whimpy 8 mm for me, I still use my trusty Chouinard 11mm circa '73, with all the fuzz, it feels all so comfy in the palm and it still has a nice stiff hand, well maybe just a bit too stiff now a days. And, what's wrong with suspenders and boiled knickers? whistle

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#67101 - 12/23/12 04:20 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: Rickster]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2454
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
I still have a wonderful boiled-wool Dachstein sweater. Warm enough to bivouac in, but it weighs a ton (dry) and takes up most of your pack if you ever take it off. I also have a beautiful pair of Chouinard corduroy knickers, made from heritage corduroy from one of the remaining dedicated mills in the U.K. The old stuff is nice, but many things have improved since the days we know are old and like to think of as good.

My post was in response to Phlan's remark about getting back to half ropes, which nowadays are 8.5mm and under. I've caught a factor-2 fall with a hip belay with a rope like Rick's 11mm fuzzy, but I don't think that's gonna work with today's half ropes.

More to the point, I think you have maybe a 50-50 chance of holding a big fall on a single 8.5mm or less strand with a modern reverso or BD XP. The reverso, if you read the fine print, is not even rated to hold falls on a single 8.5mm strand.

The Alpine Up is an assisted locking device, which I think are the wave of the future in belaying anyway. What makes it head and shoulders above any of the others is that it enables the complicated taking in and pumping out of rope needed for belaying the leader on doubles without imposing extremely awkward hand motions and the catching, grabbing, and subsequent short-roping of the leader that comes with that awkwardness.

The only real competition at the moment is the Mammut Smart Alpine, and it doesn't come close to the performance of the UP.

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#67103 - 12/23/12 06:39 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: rg@ofmc]
phlan Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 02/11/00
Posts: 2776
Loc: Gardiner, NY
Thanks for posting that, RG! that device sounds like we're going to get it.
Now as for the ropes, I used to climb on 9 mm meaning 9 mm! I guess you can't get 9 mm double ropes, but you can get 9 mm single ropes now... what would speak against climbing with 2 identical 9 mm single ropes? I would prefer not to get and have to climb on two strands of spaghetti if I can.
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#67104 - 12/23/12 10:48 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: phlan]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2454
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Weight is the primary downside to double nines. Hell, double 8.5's are considered fat and heavy now. Another might be cost, although I don't know what the comparisons are.

Seriously, if you are going to get half ropes, get something in the 8--8.5 range.

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#67105 - 12/24/12 01:32 AM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: rg@ofmc]
tradjunkie Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 359
So RG, your thoughts please: I feel like I've heard this movie before.

Spiffy new device comes out, engineered technology thing from Europe that nobody's heard of, highly endorsed by RG as the better way to go, works well, addresses some safety issues, and locks down even for double ropes.

I'm not saying the TRE wasn't neat, but ....

Why not just stick with thicker ropes and familiar belay devices?

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#67106 - 12/24/12 01:53 AM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: tradjunkie]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4269
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Originally Posted By: tradjunkie

Why not just stick with thicker ropes and familiar belay devices?


I find myself doing this. An added bonus is that with all the attention on 9.small single ropes, the prices of 10mm ropes is looking good. Case in point - my latest purchase (60m x 10.0, non-dry) cost $82.

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#67109 - 12/24/12 05:44 AM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: tradjunkie]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2454
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Originally Posted By: tradjunkie

Why not just stick with thicker ropes and familiar belay devices?


It's an option. The thinner ropes weigh less. If you do a long pitch and have two 50m lengths of rope hanging off you, you might notice it. For example, two 50m lengths of Beal Ice line (8.1mm) is 2.5 lbs lighter than the same lengths of Beal Joker (9.1mm). 50m of the Ice lines are going to weigh you down to the tune of about 9.25 lbs, the same length Jokers about 11.7 lbs.

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#67111 - 12/24/12 05:53 PM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: Mike Rawdon]
retroscree Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
Case in point - my latest purchase (60m x 10.0, non-dry) cost $82.

Details, please!

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#67113 - 12/25/12 01:21 AM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: retroscree]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4269
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Originally Posted By: retroscree
Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
Case in point - my latest purchase (60m x 10.0, non-dry) cost $82.


Details, please!


I signed up for email alerts at Sierra Trading Post, and a week or so ago the special deal was 40% off anything + free shipping. And they always have ropes on sale, so I scored an Edelrid Hawk. At 62 g/m it's lighter than the typical 10.0mm cord. Within a gram of the last 9.8 I bought actually.

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#67141 - 12/31/12 04:18 AM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: Mike Rawdon]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3763
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Rich I'll skip the boiled wool and opt for my wool sauteed with butter and garlic, and a little raspberry reduction drizzled on afterwards.

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#67143 - 12/31/12 05:49 AM Re: How Was Your Year (2012) & What's Next? [Re: RangerRob]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2454
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Dammit Rob, if folks like you weren't such slobs, we wouldn't have to keep boiling those sweaters. That raspberry stuff is especially hard to get out, not that the butter and garlic is exactly a walk in the park.

New Year's Eve is fast approaching---have a good one all.

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