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#67010 - 12/05/12 12:28 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: fotovult]
NYZoo Offline
journeyman

Registered: 07/06/08
Posts: 59
Loc: Gunks
When I did Tetonia I stayed on the right side of the arete the whole way and never touched the crux on Le Teton. I joined Le Teton after it's crux on the arete. I felt is was 5.10 and pumpy. The crux for me was where the arete points out when you are climbing left of Le Tetons crux. Really cool. Do most people join with Le Teton at its crack?

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#67015 - 12/05/12 05:13 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: NYZoo]
TrappDyke Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/10/09
Posts: 80
Somebody pulled a huge block off the lower loose/hollow section on Tetonia in September. My advice would be to weave out left in this section, making it easier, safer, and way less contrived. Except for the fun traverse out left near the top this line tries very hard not to be a full grade easier.

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#67021 - 12/07/12 01:12 AM Re: le teton beta [Re: pitfall]
kenr Offline
newbie

Registered: 10/05/10
Posts: 36
Originally Posted By: pitfall
Have we no standards here people?

I think those Standards went out away past their "tipping point" at least five years ago.
Goes with the principle that "If climbing had no real risk, there would be point in doing it."

Abundantly disproven nowadays by the continuing success and growth of indoor gym climbing. Seems fairly clear that the majority of people who climb regularly in the metro NY/NJ area choose to climb outdoors either Never or Almost Never.
(I heard someone say there was a recent survey finding that majority also for the U.S. climbers nationwide.)

Just go to an indoor gym within 30 miles of Manhattan and randomly ask people if they've climbed in the Gunks. See how many say "What's that?"

Ken

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#67025 - 12/07/12 10:53 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: kenr]
Rickster Online   content
old hand

Registered: 10/16/07
Posts: 848
Loc: Orange Cty, NY
Originally Posted By: kenr

Just go to an indoor gym within 30 miles of Manhattan and randomly ask people if they've climbed in the Gunks. See how many say "What's that?"

Ken


Naw, let's go to any indoor climbing gym within 30 miles of the Gunks and randomly ask people if they've climbed in Manhattan? smile

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#67044 - 12/13/12 09:06 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: pitfall]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2361
Loc: Boston
Originally Posted By: pitfall
Seriously, this is sad. Asking for gear beta is one thing but beta on the climb in general? Have we no standards here people?


These standards are individual. I would never consider making a request like the OP here. For *me*, it would cheapen the ascent, and take away half the fun. But I have no problem with *him* climbing it in any style he wants.

Kind of brings to mind this thread: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1961076/Trad-climbing-Or-is-it

GO

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#67048 - 12/14/12 03:22 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: GOclimb]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Go, you echo my sentiments exactly. To expect others to live up to one's climbing ethics and expectations is not only unreasonable, it borders on haughtiness.

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#67050 - 12/14/12 04:16 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: RangerRob]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
That's using a broad brush to open a can of worms, Rob.


Originally Posted By: RangerRob
Go, you echo my sentiments exactly. To expect others to live up to one's climbing ethics and expectations is not only unreasonable, it borders on haughtiness.

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#67051 - 12/14/12 05:57 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: ianmanger]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2361
Loc: Boston
Originally Posted By: ianmanger
That's using a broad brush to open a can of worms, Rob.


Do they still make those sardine cans that open with a key? If you lost the key, I bet you could use a brush instead. But a broad brush? Now that's going too far - I think a fine brush would be needed.

Wait, what?

G wink

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#67073 - 12/19/12 04:31 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: RangerRob]
pitfall Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/01/00
Posts: 1165
Loc: Albany
Originally Posted By: RangerRob
To expect others to live up to one's climbing ethics and expectations is not only unreasonable, it borders on haughtiness.
If I were to say that my standard is higher, but it's okay for someone to have a lesser one, seems pretty haughty to me... But that's just how I would see it if I were to make such a statement. I respect your opinion. wink
_________________________

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#67153 - 01/02/13 11:12 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: pitfall]
browndog2 Offline
old hand

Registered: 04/24/01
Posts: 767
Loc: livin' on the edge
Still, witnessing the Gunks.community responding helpfully if not lovingly was a bit of a shock. Pleasant but shocking. Prob wont last tho. Next beta quest will be met with the standard "Stay the f in the gym you p."

oh and i usually open my can of worms w my nut tool


Edited by browndog2 (01/02/13 11:13 PM)
_________________________
(not that there's anything wrong with that...sorta)

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