Shout Box

Who's Online
0 registered (), 10 Guests and 3 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Page 2 of 3 < 1 2 3 >
Topic Options
#66980 - 12/01/12 08:03 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: fotovult]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
Tetonia is a good line if you are comfortable with 5.10 and some runout with less than great gear. Not a good suggestion for someone where well protected solid 5.9 is a challenge.

Originally Posted By: fotovult
climb straight up into the crux it on the arete from down low- more sustained at grade and way more fun IMO. Tetonia, I think.

Top
#66981 - 12/01/12 08:14 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: Coppertone]
fotovult Online   content
member

Registered: 09/01/05
Posts: 141
Loc: ny
Originally Posted By: Coppertone
Tetonia is a good line if you are comfortable with 5.10 and some runout with less than great gear. Not a good suggestion for someone where well protected solid 5.9 is a challenge.



I never felt like it was 5.10 climbing, no move seemed harder than the le teton crux above it. But you're right about the gear, it is a little spicy - clean falls though.

Seems like there is more honest climbing on tetonia compared to Le Teton, which is easy rock up to a few moves of 5.9.
_________________________
www.chrisvultaggio.com

Top
#66982 - 12/01/12 08:47 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: fotovult]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
Not diminishing Tetonia in anyway just probably not a good choice for someone working on 5.9's. While I didn't think there were any hard 5.10's moves on it, the sustained overhanging nature of the climb made it 5.10 to me. Definitely a harder lead then say Beatle Brow Bulge or Retribution.

Top
#66983 - 12/02/12 03:08 AM Re: le teton beta [Re: Coppertone]
worthrussell Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/11/10
Posts: 90
Loc: NY, Brooklyn
Coppertone no need to worry. Im really new to gunks 5.9. Ive lead a few 10a/b clean in the dacks and a bunch more in rumney but gunks 10 always feels desperate to me. I'll keep it in the memory banks for the end of next season.

Top
#66984 - 12/02/12 03:18 AM Re: le teton beta [Re: worthrussell]
worthrussell Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/11/10
Posts: 90
Loc: NY, Brooklyn
Dont need the "honest 5.9" the Climb with a 5 9 crux and easier 7/8ish roof action afterwards is Good enough for me. Exposure is my achilles heel and im just looking to climb some stuff Within my lead ability that will harden me against its awesome grip.

Top
#66985 - 12/02/12 04:23 AM Re: le teton beta [Re: worthrussell]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Gear beta is always the key to crusing a harder technical route. Don't read if you don't want the gear beta:

At the top of the crack where it opens up there is a beautiful #2 camalot placement that protects the start of the traverse beautifully. Have that puppy ready to fire in. A second #2 helps to make you comfy before you launch out on the upper face. The rest of the gear is standard Gunks rack.

Top
#66988 - 12/02/12 02:49 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: RangerRob]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
Interesting. Time was when WR would have been flamed to a cinder, or at least thwown to the gwound woughly for asking for specific beta before even trying. Responses such as "If you have to ask", or just "Harden the fuck up, Australia" come to mind.

But here we have a good thread of helpful responses. I'm almost tearing up.

So, concur with Rob. A red Alien/0.5 cam is handy down low, once you pull up into the crack there is a perfect small nut placement. With that in I don't bother with Rob's cam in the shallow slot, though if you need to sew then blast ahead. Your second may thank you for it as well. I find that the key move is getting my feet up onto the small holds to get set up for the reach left. Once you stand up its all over as the handholds for the traverse are huge and the pin is OK. Pull gratefully onto the ledge. The exit moves aren't a gimme but a piece of cake after the crack.

Have fun. Let us know how it goes. And harden the fuck up.

Top
#66989 - 12/02/12 05:46 PM Re: le teton beta [Re: ianmanger]
worthrussell Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/11/10
Posts: 90
Loc: NY, Brooklyn
Gunks.com seems to be a friendly place,see gear stolen thread. On mountain project im sure I'd be flamed. I appreciate the responses and im a weakling without beta. I'll work on hardening up in the future.

Top
#66990 - 12/03/12 01:57 AM Re: le teton beta [Re: worthrussell]
pitfall Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/01/00
Posts: 1165
Loc: Albany
Seriously, this is sad. Asking for gear beta is one thing but beta on the climb in general? Have we no standards here people?
_________________________

Top
#66991 - 12/03/12 02:31 AM Re: le teton beta [Re: pitfall]
socialist1 Offline
member

Registered: 08/05/04
Posts: 147
Loc: New Brunswick, NJ
Originally Posted By: pitfall
Seriously, this is sad. Asking for gear beta is one thing but beta on the climb in general? Have we no standards here people?


Here here. Seriously. Its not complicated, just go have at 'er.

Top
Page 2 of 3 < 1 2 3 >


Moderator:  Mike Rawdon, Steven Cherry 
Sponsored