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#67404 - 02/12/13 11:14 PM
Re: Help in Climbing/Leading Roofs
[Re: TerrieM]
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addict
Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 593
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Oh, and as far as specific techniques: experiment, watch other climbers, ask other climbers, ask for feedback. If you are toproping, you can play around for as long as you'd like and start to learn what works/doesn't work. If you can find someone who is better at these problems than you are, you can both work on the same roof and a little informal coaching can take place. The No Picnic roof would be well suited for this. Each situation is different, but as a general rule you don't want to start getting contemplative and introspective in the middle of an overhang. The typical 'Gunks roof requires an aggressive, assertive approach.
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#67408 - 02/14/13 07:09 PM
Re: Help in Climbing/Leading Roofs
[Re: Mark Heyman]
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enthusiast
Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 347
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I agree with most of the points made above and would add core strength to the list.
If you toprope/follow enough roofs at a similar grade, you'll probably get a good sense of what you are capable of, which will lead to you feeling confident and, importantly, relaxed, when on lead. There are a lot of roofs you can TR even if you are the only leader in your party, especially if you are willing to be lowered down from a top anchor.
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#67409 - 02/14/13 11:09 PM
Re: Help in Climbing/Leading Roofs
[Re: tradjunkie]
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old hand
Registered: 10/16/07
Posts: 765
Loc: Orange Cty, NY
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I agree with most of the points made above and would add core strength to the list. Abs-olutely! As in all things physical, core is paramount. Nothing more frustrating on a big body length roof then to be up in there tight reaching for the lip then to have your core give out and your ass start sagging and heading towards the ground a few moments before the rest of your body.
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#67432 - 02/20/13 12:22 PM
Re: Help in Climbing/Leading Roofs
[Re: crackers]
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old hand
Registered: 10/16/07
Posts: 765
Loc: Orange Cty, NY
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.... Core strength. Down climbing. HEEL HOOKING. Core strength. Do figure 4 / 9 in the gym. Use your extreme reach rather than suffer from it. Follow / TR. What works for us non small folks is not what works for dinkys. Forget about them,....Good luck! Haven't these techniques or skills proven effective for climbers of all sizes?
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#67433 - 02/20/13 02:38 PM
Re: Help in Climbing/Leading Roofs
[Re: Rickster]
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addict
Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 583
Loc: NYC
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It seems to be a rule of climbing that people, whether they are relatively tall or short, will construe their height to be a disadvantage.
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