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#67452 - 02/21/13 09:03 PM Re: Help in Climbing/Leading Roofs [Re: talus]
Frank Florence Offline
addict

Registered: 01/05/00
Posts: 528
Loc: moved to Bend
A strong core is critical for transferring force through the legs, especially in initiating moves. But I don't see that as the whole story with getting over roof problems. Extending movement up from the legs through the core has the effect of lifting the torso higher, bring the climber's COG into a potentially more advantageous position with respect to the roof lip and/or holds above the roof. So what we're really talking about is technique.

I'm not a tall person, but let's say I'm climbing like one in so far that my feet are still on holds on the back wall under the roof. As I move up, I'll try to bring my hips in close to the roof. It's easier to then look downward past my legs to see where I need to re-position my feet. It also seems easier to pull my torso up and in and hold a lock-off on one arm while reaching out around the roof with the other. The post by AnthonyB also brought this up and included some other good ideas.

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#67474 - 02/24/13 07:45 PM Re: Help in Climbing/Leading Roofs [Re: Frank Florence]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
I think roof climbing techniques are ignored by a lot of trad climbers. Sport climbing and bouldering tends to be more steep and you learn pretty quick how to conserve energy and create rests on roofs with body position.

Ie i found M.Times and Son of E O to be piss easy yet more techy stuff like Snookys and Birdland gave me a harder time.

practice.. road trip to Rumney or RRG to develop skills to lead on roofs with clean falls.

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#67612 - 03/05/13 04:12 PM Re: Help in Climbing/Leading Roofs [Re: jakedatc]
fotovult Offline
member

Registered: 09/01/05
Posts: 126
Loc: ny
Tallgirl - I went through the same stage, and have learned to love overhangs/roofs.

You had mentioned leading, but didn't specify if your troubles were rooted in physical or mental struggles.

Mental is pretty easy to overcome - falls are clean and in the gunks I find most often the moves have a rest beforehand. Even routes with sustained climbing before overhangs (Welcome to the Gunks, Nurses Aid, coex, the Sting) you can still cop a rest before the business.

Physical is a different game, finessing hard roofs is a bit tougher than finessing hard face/slab/crack. Strength goes a long way, as does good footwork in setting up to crank over the lips.

Best advice as others have said is to get on as many overhung climbs as you can - if you can aid or have a stronger leader I'd go for the lead if the falls are good. If not TR the hell out of them.
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#67614 - 03/05/13 08:47 PM Re: Help in Climbing/Leading Roofs [Re: fotovult]
oenophore Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/01
Posts: 5935
Loc: 212 land
Mental is pretty easy to overcome

For you perhaps. Do you maintain that the same is true for Tallgirlnyc?
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#67615 - 03/05/13 10:32 PM Re: Help in Climbing/Leading Roofs [Re: oenophore]
fotovult Offline
member

Registered: 09/01/05
Posts: 126
Loc: ny
Sure - go out, plug a bomber cam and peel off a roof into space. When the gear holds her repeated falls it will help her mental game. If the gear rips - well if her gear isn't atomic she should be asking advice on how to place good gear and not conquer roofs.

Once she whips a bunch of times and realizes there is no consequence she can focus on her climbing and not her falling.

OK maybe that's a bit too general - but I do feel that getting stronger mentally comes easier than getting stronger physically.
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