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#67520 - 02/26/13 03:24 PM Re: Uh Oh... Video - Chipping in NY [Re: donald perry]
crimpy Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 07/02/11
Posts: 331
Loc: Wawarsing
nice video,give me psyche!
thanks don.

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#67529 - 02/27/13 04:57 PM Re: Uh Oh... Video - Chipping in NY [Re: crimpy]
gunkie Offline
member

Registered: 07/19/00
Posts: 120
Loc: New Hope, PA
I didn't read the whole thread, but can anyone describe the scene when Arrow got two bolts? I was happy when the old 1/4" spinners were replaced with modern bolts. However, I hate those damn rappel routes. There is a perfectly good walk down that will get you back to your gear at the base in less than 20 minutes, in large part. The point is, everyone's got a threshold.

As far as Ivan goes, and I don't condone chipping, but I get the sense that this guy has already paid and will continue to pay for his blatant indiscretions. He's already got a scarlet letter hanging around his neck. If he's caught again... I suspect the penalties will be quite severe.

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#67530 - 02/27/13 05:10 PM Re: Uh Oh... Video - Chipping in NY [Re: donald perry]
gunkie Offline
member

Registered: 07/19/00
Posts: 120
Loc: New Hope, PA
Comment on Twilight Zone... If you've ever aided it, there is a rotten seam that runs out the horizontal where you traverse left under the roofs. In that seam, there is an obvious 'letter slot' hold that has been manufactured.

So yes, one of the Gunks premier free climbs is effectively a climb that was built to be free climbed by the best talent of 1995 (or thereabouts). How will the climbing talent of 2015 measure up?

Karma's a bitch and seems to have caught up with at least one of the original gang.

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#67531 - 02/27/13 05:22 PM Re: Uh Oh... Video - Chipping in NY [Re: gunkie]
retroscree Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Originally Posted By: gunkie
...but can anyone describe the scene when Arrow got two bolts? I was happy when the old 1/4" spinners were replaced with modern bolts. However, I hate those damn rappel routes.

Do you mean the protection bolts or the rap bolts?
As a related question: there are rap bolts on Arrow now???

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#67532 - 02/27/13 05:33 PM Re: Uh Oh... Video - Chipping in NY [Re: gunkie]
Frank Florence Offline
addict

Registered: 01/05/00
Posts: 528
Loc: moved to Bend
Gunkie, if you're referring to the two protection bolts on the top pitch of Arrow, I had a conversation with Will Crowther (who placed the originals) about them. He said he did it because the face had very good climbing on it but poor protection and he wanted to make it more appealing to climbers who wouldn't have gone up there otherwise. He was right. Based on the fact that his original gear has been replaced with more substantial bolts, the community seems to have accepted his premise and values the climb in its bolted condition.

In contrast, Crowther's original bolt on Moonlight was considered unnecessary and chopped.

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#67536 - 02/27/13 07:12 PM Re: Uh Oh... Video - Chipping in NY [Re: Frank Florence]
retroscree Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Originally Posted By: Frank Florence
Based on the fact that his original gear has been replaced with more substantial bolts,...

...several times.
And the originals were placed on rappel.

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#67539 - 02/28/13 06:12 AM Re: Uh Oh... Video - Chipping in NY [Re: crimpy]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1530
Loc: New Jersey
There was a progressive change in thinking about aid that eventally petered out.

You can see it in the book Yankee Rock and Ice.

http://books.google.com/books?id=3LtZKlC...p;q&f=false
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The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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#67543 - 02/28/13 07:28 PM Re: Uh Oh... Video - Chipping in NY [Re: donald perry]
retroscree Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
For those who wish to continue to be amused by The Donald, he's taken his incoherent rambling and twisted logic on this subject to the taco stand.

The thread starts here: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2076203/Chipping-culprit-filmed-in-NY

DP makes his appearance around post #440.

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#67546 - 02/28/13 08:39 PM Re: Uh Oh... Video - Chipping in NY [Re: retroscree]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 710
Loc: NYC
As far as the Arrow bolts are concerned-- I think the basic history (not that I was there...) is that some Gunks developers were okay with the occasional protection bolt, in line with traditional climbing development in many other areas around the country. It wasn't just Crowther; Dick Williams installed several bolts on Gunks climbs over the years. I think some folks disapproved but there was not a war over it because the community was small as was the number of bolts. It went to a different place when the fear arose that a new generation of climbers would put up a whole bunch of super-difficult lines protected by lines of bolts, as was becoming the norm in other areas. The specter of this sort of development is what drove the debate and eventual ban on bolts.
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It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

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#67547 - 02/28/13 08:45 PM Re: Uh Oh... Video - Chipping in NY [Re: crimpy]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1530
Loc: New Jersey
.


Edited by donald perry (02/28/13 09:25 PM)
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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