Come to think of it, no one has mentioned the location of that videorecorded abomination. Does anyone know?

I've not seen anything definitive, however the many comments on different forums have identified the boulder as in the Gunks, and another said it was in Rockland County. In the close ups the rock looks very much like our own quartz conglomerate.

"never been on Twilight zone.. over my head."

For a long time people worked on it, it finally went free at 5.13b with the help of a crow bar.

As I understand it, at the time there were a group of climbers who liked to go to a quarry and use chisels who eventually found themselves on this climb.

My point of bringing it up is that, I think if it is OK to use a crow bar on Twilight Zone, then it how can anyone say it is not OK to use it everywhere else?

Donald, in my opinion it certainly was not okay to use a crowbar on Twilight Zone. That being said, I've never attempted to free it. It makes me sad that such a "signature" route in the Gunks was manufactured to make it easier/safer.

I view it this way. There is a shitload of rock out there to climb on. Boulderers have it partivulary easy in that regard. There is literally enough unexplored bouldering within 2 or 3 miles of the road in NY to last for multiple lifetimes. If something is to hard for you, then move on to something that isn't too hard for you. It's not a damned gym. You can't just create holds wherever you want them. The sport of climbing means you take what the rock gives you to work with, and either you are good enough or you aren't good enough. The two fuckwads in the video were clearly not good enough to climb the route as it was given to them. Egos get in the way, and we all know who has a big ego, don't we.

Well, I don't know how big my ego is, it is hard to measure that from here or to know what to do about it. I do know I have a big mouth, the truth is I am easily addicted to posting things people are not interested in, and I like to argue a lot. I don't mind criticism, I like to cooperate, but not without an argument. I hope my ego will always be within reason, I think it is. I would rather be talking about the climb, we are getting off topic. But maybe not, maybe all this is about the ego, it's not about the rock, is it?

And I am glad we can agree about Twilight Zone. However on the other hand, I think if someone took some photos and it went up for discussion first, perhaps over a long period of time we could figure it out and it might be that we would decide to remove it. That would be OK. But I do not think people should take it upon themselves to privately remove rock on public land. And I think that is the true sign that one's ego is way out of wack. Even if they may be very good at hiding that fact.

PS I only saw one wad, where was the other?

Alex Greene should explain why he feels he needs to use a chisel and a hammer when he climbs in the Gunks and elsewhere, or else explain why he does not use a hammer and chisel?

How many of his bolder problems have been dressed with a chisel?

What about East Cost Thriller?

What about all his other bolder problems, does he or someone else use a chisel on all of them, or just some of them?

I think the answer to this is yes, some group of people feel it is productive to use a chisel the same way we use chalk, but I think if he or they want any kind of respect they needs to take responsibility and start explaining to us what they did, are now doing, and what they intends to do in the future.


What about it Alex, are you man enough to deal with this problem the same way you deal with your boulders?

Who's Alex?

Not the guy I am talking to, for legal reasons.

I think the true test of a man is to solve a problem like this, not to run away and hide from it. If it was me, I would admit to it, in fact I did admit to it!

What legal reason? What did you admit?

No, you misunderstood me. I am talking to the people who like to chip rock in the Gunks and invent new boulder problems this way. I am sure there is more than one guy, and I would imagine that the people here SHOULD know who they are.

http://bassforyourface.com/blog/


I am just using the name Alex rather than Ivan because I do not want to use *anyone's* real name.

In the defense of Alex I would say that whatever he did, no one should go back there and out of spite chisel some more. Alex is chiseling to invent climbs at least, bring things down to his grade, that's the good news. The bad news is he is doing so without consulting the climbing community or the land owners first to get permition.

So it's not the end of the world, unless he does not start talking and change his game plan. [In other words he is not aiding up boulder problems and chipping the holds off.]