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#67480 - 02/24/13 11:42 PM Re: Uh Oh... Video - Chipping in NY [Re: TerrieM]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
Originally Posted By: TerrieM
Off the subject, but I would like to see the major climbing-related companies choosing to sponsor boulderers who are dedicated to reduced impact and make it a part of the message they bring to those following.


So many people who don't come to climbing the old route(through mentorship)are into bouldering, and I see a real lack of land stewardship being put out in the media when it comes to covering bouldering.



tell me, what trad climber or hell sport climber is sponsored for their land stewardship? show me some links. The climbing media cares about sends, projects and gear.

Ken nichols came up the "old way" and has destroyed more rock faces than anyone i can think of.

are you saying that Ken Nichols is of a higher ethic than Daniel Woods or Adam Ondra who have become stronger than anyone without the need of a "mentor"

I am in no way defending Ivan.. he has gone out of his way to screw things up. he should not be seen as a representative of the bouldering community. His attitude, style, noise etc is often discussed as repulsive by most.

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#67481 - 02/24/13 11:45 PM Re: Uh Oh... Video - Chipping in NY [Re: jakedatc]
TerrieM Online   content
addict

Registered: 05/14/09
Posts: 425
Loc: Gunks in Summer, Southwest in ...
Quote:
If you've never BEEN bouldering how do you know what happens in various bouldering areas? you see one guy chipping and flip out on a whole community who has nothing to do with him. You don't know me and I wish I didn't know you.


Why must you be such an asshole? Some places I have been, bouldering:
- Joshua Tree
- New Jack City
- Yosemite
- Eagle Peak
- Cochise Stronghold
- Some place outside Albequerque which name escapes me at the moment
- Horse Pens

It might surprise you to know that you don't have any idea where I have been, what I have climbed, who I climb with and what I know.

I have not "seen" one guy chipping, nor have I "flipped out." Nor have I discounted the bouldering community as a whole. This is just you, being hysterical. As usual, when it comes to any post I make.

Funny, how there is a small group of internet men who just feel the need to go berzerk when they see my posts. Not a damned ONE of you has ever had the balls to say something to me face to face. I have found it humorous, sitting around a campfire at times, and seeing the seething internet bullies shame-facedly avoiding eye contact.

Please - feel free to speak to me and be the gawdawful asshat you display online when you do run into me at a crag.

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#67482 - 02/24/13 11:49 PM Re: Uh Oh... Video - Chipping in NY [Re: TerrieM]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
I have no desire to talk to you.


you do trail work every week... why aren't you sponsored and on the cover of Rock and Ice? oh wait.. companies sponsor climbers to be the faces of their company and increase exposure.

Boulderers aren't the only ones coming up without mentors and chipping and other destruction isn't a common issue. If you haven't seen problems then why did you even bring up the issue of boulderers without mentors?

sitting on the Welcome Rock on the carriage road doesn't count as bouldering wink


Edited by jakedatc (02/25/13 12:03 AM)

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#67484 - 02/25/13 02:39 AM Re: Uh Oh... Video - Chipping in NY [Re: jakedatc]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1530
Loc: New Jersey
You guys are getting way off topic.

Anyway, I can see there is a problem when you are putting up a new route and the holds start breaking off, and the breaks may turn out to be negative. Whereas if you had pulled on the hold differently, it would have actually left a positive hold.

Is there any room for argument here?


Edited by donald perry (02/25/13 02:40 AM)
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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#67485 - 02/25/13 02:42 AM Re: Uh Oh... Video - Chipping in NY [Re: donald perry]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
Well putting up a new route with loose rock is different then going to town with a chisel. loose rocks and broken holds are going to happen. completely manufacturing something isn't ok.

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#67486 - 02/25/13 03:09 AM Re: Uh Oh... Video - Chipping in NY [Re: jakedatc]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1530
Loc: New Jersey
Originally Posted By: jakedatc
Well putting up a new route with loose rock is different then going to town with a chisel. loose rocks and broken holds are going to happen. completely manufacturing something isn't ok.


So there are cases where it is ok to use a chisel.
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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#67488 - 02/25/13 03:50 AM Re: Uh Oh... Video - Chipping in NY [Re: donald perry]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
Originally Posted By: donald perry
Originally Posted By: jakedatc
Well putting up a new route with loose rock is different then going to town with a chisel. loose rocks and broken holds are going to happen. completely manufacturing something isn't ok.


So there are cases where it is ok to use a chisel.


How did you get that from what i said? you've done how many FA's Don.. what do YOU do on a brand new route?

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#67489 - 02/25/13 05:38 AM Re: Uh Oh... Video - Chipping in NY [Re: jakedatc]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1530
Loc: New Jersey
OK, so there is no case where it is OK to use a chisel. How do you feel about Twilight Zone? Would you complain about that?
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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#67491 - 02/25/13 06:10 AM Re: Uh Oh... Video - Chipping in NY [Re: crimpy]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1530
Loc: New Jersey
We had this big flake on one climb, it was big and loose and dangerous. I just left it, later on, someone else pulled it off, and they might have used a crow bar because it scared them too much.

But, aside from what I already said, to be honest, I never had a need for a chisel. I always look to find another way up, or I could not do the move and gave up for so many years. I will stick nut tools in cracks or jerk small friends around till all the shit falls out. But I have not used a hammer. The idea really never has an occasion to enter my mind.

I would not want to do a manufactured climb, I hate climbing gyms for just that reason. However, if part of a flake broke off and left an undesirable hold, I think I would feel comfortable to change the rest of the flake back again to the way it was before. But ... the reason I come here is to be amazed. A chiseled climb does not interest me at all. There is nothing interesting or amazing about it at all. The idea about climbing, that I love is coming to understand creation, I think it is a very magical thing, to feel one, and at peace in the mountains. To listen to the wind blow through the trees at night at the top of a climb.

The mountains should not be a place to be about conquered with a gun, or with a chain saw, or with a chisel. I understand them to be about discovering and being a place of enlightenment. It is not what I might take from a climb, but what the climb might give to me. This is the reason I come here, and the reason I understand that it's here, it's full of light. And when it speaks I'm trying to listen, but I don't always understand it very well, it's very complex, what does it all mean? Sometimes I am left speechless in awe and wonder.
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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#67492 - 02/25/13 06:59 AM Re: Uh Oh... Video - Chipping in NY [Re: donald perry]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
"holds break, grade stays the same" -jack marshall NJC

I think we agree.. cleaning a route you will need to dig out some cracks, remove loose rock and i'm even ok with reinforcing holds that have the potential of breaking but are important to the route (if done well.. there are some hack jobs). sometimes holds break and you can't do anything about it.. easier harder depends how it goes. I don't agree with purposely altering a route, especially if it is to make it easier or harder or even existing. some rock can't be climbed yet.. leave it. V15 wasn't possible a few years ago.. now it is.

never been on Twilight zone.. over my head.

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