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#67749 - 04/07/13 11:58 PM Easy V and Gelsa
gmv Offline
stranger

Registered: 04/07/13
Posts: 2
I'm thinking about heading up to the Gunks next week and I was wondering if anybody can tell me if the Easy V and/or Gelsa are open. I read somewhere something about peregrine nesting.

It'll be my first time climbing in the Gunks. It's weird that I'm nervous about climbing 5.3/5.4 rated routes.

Any other good easier routes available?

I haven't climbed in a long time but I used to climb a lot when I was living in Colorado.

Thanks

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#67756 - 04/08/13 09:58 AM Re: (NA) Easy V and Gelsa [Re: gmv]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Both are open.

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#67767 - 04/08/13 07:22 PM Re: (NA) Easy V and Gelsa [Re: Mike Rawdon]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Gelsa is one of the most exciting 5.4s you'll climb in the northeast. Last pitch is out there for sure.

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#67768 - 04/08/13 07:36 PM Re: (NA) Easy V and Gelsa [Re: RangerRob]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 710
Loc: NYC
Minty and Beginner's Delight are both open and are wonderful climbs from the bottom to the top of the cliff. Also Sixish is really very nice (maybe my favorite of the ones mentioned) and it is open. Three great pitches.

Three Pines is quite good but it is closed at the moment.

Bunny is a single-pitch outing but it is a longish pitch and features very nice climbing.
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#67773 - 04/08/13 08:49 PM Re: (NA) Easy V and Gelsa [Re: SethG]
KathyS Offline
member

Registered: 01/10/08
Posts: 196
Loc: NY, USA
And way out toward the far end of the Trapps is Casa Emilio, which is a very nice route in that grade range. 1st pitch isn't much, but the 2nd is long and lovely.

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#67776 - 04/09/13 12:11 AM Re: (NA) Easy V and Gelsa [Re: KathyS]
kenr Offline
newbie

Registered: 10/05/10
Posts: 36
Pitch "zero" of Casa Emilio makes a nice start (and helps justify the long walk): in the "basement" of the house -- the only multi-pitch climb in the Trapps which starts in a cave. See description in one of the Comments on MountainProject.com topo.

Easy V pitch 1 is a nice 5.1 face, but the upper pitch is pretty wild for a 5.3 leader -- or follower. I think it's a worthwhile lead with some unusual moves, but don't expect your partner to love you for dragging them up it.

Note that many of the great easy climbs in the Gunks have tricky traverse sections (e.g. Gelsa). So unless your follower is really solid on traversing footwork, better have a plan for how you're going to finish if they fall of the route into unclimablble terrain (like do they know how to prusik up the rope to get back on the route? or have you practiced a pulley system to haul them?).

Definitely consider using double-ropes. Keep in mind that simply using double-ropes does not automatically protect your follower on traverses -- you really have to know _how_ to use them.

I think the upper half of Andrew is really great with double-ropes, but all the caveats above apply in full strength, and the leader better be cool in the face of routefinding and exposure.

Ken

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#67777 - 04/09/13 12:21 AM Re: (NA) Easy V and Gelsa [Re: SethG]
kenr Offline
newbie

Registered: 10/05/10
Posts: 36
Bunny -- the upper two-thirds has lots of fun moves, but the lower third is kind of awkward. Be prepared to be pretty intimidated leading the first 15 feet, and consider how you might "haul" an inexperienced follower thru some of the lower moves, so they can get to the more fun stuff.

Also if you set up a top-rope on Bunny with a pulley at the top and belayer at the bottom, keep in mind that with rope stretch somebody could take a rather long fall (and hit something and get hurt) even though they're "on top-rope".

Betty - with the direct "nose" finish is rather good (does anyone do the original first ascension finish any more?)

Ken


Edited by kenr (04/09/13 12:22 AM)

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#67781 - 04/09/13 11:53 AM Re: (NA) Easy V and Gelsa [Re: kenr]
gmv Offline
stranger

Registered: 04/07/13
Posts: 2
Wow, thanks for the all the beta.

I was considering Beginner's Delight as well.

I'll report back next week after our trip.

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#67783 - 04/09/13 04:00 PM Re: (NA) Easy V and Gelsa [Re: gmv]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Beg. Delight is in the falcon closure area.

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#67784 - 04/09/13 04:16 PM Re: (NA) Easy V and Gelsa [Re: Mike Rawdon]
wivanov Offline
newbie

Registered: 05/01/12
Posts: 30
Loc: CT
Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
Beg. Delight is in the falcon closure area.

You sure? I thought Bloody Bush to Overhanging Layback. Beginner's Delight is outside of that.

Mohonk Preserve Route Closures

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