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#67924 - 04/23/13 05:03 PM Re: Accident in the Nears on Saturday [Re: Adrian]
gunkette Offline

Registered: 05/23/11
Posts: 21
Originally Posted By: Adrian

When belaying second off the harness with redirect, the ATC configured is in the same mode of lead belay (not in guide mode), the brake hand position is the hip position, no?

Yes, but WITHOUT a redirect, the brake position for belaying a second from the top, off your harness, is up by your chest. The sudden change in positions and the forces involved would make it pretty difficult to catch your second if the redirect failed, which is why it should be bomber. As stated above, it's essentially a top rope anchor, and the consequences of failure could be dire.

#67929 - 04/23/13 09:37 PM Re: Accident in the Nears on Saturday [Re: gunkette]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Brake hand down, brake hand chest...whatever.

The key thing I get from this event is that once the redirect piece popped out, the belayer was basically confronted with a force equivalent to a large leader fall by a very heavy climber. And took this force directly onto her harness. In a downwards direction. It's hard to imagine a worse scenario when it comes to it being difficult to maintain control.

Glad everyone will be OK.

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