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#67856 - 04/17/13 02:12 PM Mental Blocks Beta
VanTVu Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/31/12
Posts: 3
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
Anyone have any beta on how long and sustained the aid is for Mental Blocks in the Daks?

P2 (30 ft) and p4 (40ft) look short, but trying to get my arms around P2 (120ft). The first part with right leaning crack up to the runout slab section looks moderate and less than vertical so it looks like the only aid will be that final section through the overhanging wall so maybe 20ish ft?

Any gear beta would be great as well. Assuming a double rack of cams (micro to blue size 3 BD cams) + a set of nuts should do me well. Any need for more specialized gear like offsets / hooks, etc? Would more wide stuff such as a size 4 cam or carrying a few more large hexes come in handy? Probably going to shortfix and am considering just carrying more gear vs deal with a tag line.

Also planning on doing the diagonal the day before - any thoughts on the variation starts black plague vs. necessary risk? or should i just do the original?

Thanks!!!

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#67860 - 04/17/13 06:51 PM Re: Mental Blocks Beta [Re: VanTVu]
tradjunkie Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 364
Aid: that longer pitch is only partly aid. Also, you don't need a big wall rack or a tagline. You could aid the climb with a standard rack of single cams, but if you prefer to haul in more gear, don't let me stop you.

Diagonal: just focus on getting to the Diagonal itself. If it's your first time, chances are you'll have a hard time figuring out which start you did.

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#67861 - 04/17/13 10:32 PM Re: Mental Blocks Beta [Re: tradjunkie]
VanTVu Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/31/12
Posts: 3
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
thanks!

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#67863 - 04/17/13 10:50 PM Re: Mental Blocks Beta [Re: tradjunkie]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Originally Posted By: tradjunkie

Diagonal: just focus on getting to the Diagonal itself. If it's your first time, chances are you'll have a hard time figuring out which start you did.


So true!

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