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#67746 - 04/07/13 08:59 PM Accident in the Nears on Saturday
NYZoo Offline
journeyman

Registered: 07/06/08
Posts: 59
Loc: Gunks
Anybody hear anything about the accident that happened this past Saturday 4/6/13 in the Nears? Apparently leader was belaying from above & dropped follower 50', groundfall. Leader couldn't hold fall & sustained rope burn on hands. Curious as to what went wrong with setup and how fallen climber is doing. He was conscious when brought out with feeling in all extremities.

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#67748 - 04/07/13 11:56 PM Re: Accident in the Nears on Saturday [Re: NYZoo]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 709
Loc: NYC
Sounds terrible, best wishes to all concerned.
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#67751 - 04/08/13 02:21 AM Re: Accident in the Nears on Saturday [Re: SethG]
joeantol Offline
journeyman

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 59
Loc: New York City
I spoke to one of the rangers on Sat afternoon. The accident was on Yum Yum Yab Yum. The second, who outweighed the belayer by around 100 lbs, sustained some cuts and bruises and may have broken a few ribs. He also had a nasty cut on his head, probably from his helmet. Nothing life threatening. Apparently a piece popped when he fell which didn't help the situation. The belayer sustained what was described as "third degree burns" on both hands. The ranger described it as "horrible". One theory as to the cause is that the belayer had her device rigged to the anchor instead of redirecting through the anchor and belaying off her harness. Since both hands were burned it seems likely that she screwed up to some degree.

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#67752 - 04/08/13 02:35 AM Re: Accident in the Nears on Saturday [Re: joeantol]
llamaclimber Offline
stranger

Registered: 04/10/07
Posts: 7
I wasn't at the scene at the time of the accident (so I won't comment on exactly what happened--I'll leave that to the leader), but I know the victims. The fall was from the second pitch of Yum Yum; at least 60ft, if not higher. Thankfully (somehow) he suffered only a few broken bones. He'll be laid up for a while, but should be no worse for the wear, all said and done. He was wearing a helmet, and it saved his life. The leader's hands were pretty torn up, but she'll be ok, as well.

They would like to sincerely thank everyone who helped out with the rescue. It was a huge team effort. Andrew the ranger was especially awesome and deserves a ton of credit for leading the rescue.

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#67754 - 04/08/13 03:34 AM Re: Accident in the Nears on Saturday [Re: llamaclimber]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2467
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
With a weight mismatch, I don't think redirecting an upper belay through the anchor is a great idea. Some kind of direct belay off the anchor seems preferable to me.

But if you use a guide plate and accidentally thread the device backwards, so that the braking strand is not pinched by the load strand, you may get very little resistance to a fall load.

Even with so-called autolocking devices, belay gloves are a good idea.

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#67757 - 04/08/13 10:17 AM Re: Accident in the Nears on Saturday [Re: rg@ofmc]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 709
Loc: NYC
Wow, these folks sound very lucky indeed! Glad it wasn't much much worse,
_________________________
It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

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#67766 - 04/08/13 06:59 PM Re: Accident in the Nears on Saturday [Re: SethG]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
There's a note on MP from late March about a nest of black vultures about 10-20 ft left of the P3 belay.

I'm very glad to hear this wasn't worse.

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#67769 - 04/08/13 07:37 PM Re: Accident in the Nears on Saturday [Re: Julie]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 709
Loc: NYC
So it was a vulture attack?
_________________________
It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

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#67770 - 04/08/13 07:56 PM Re: Accident in the Nears on Saturday [Re: SethG]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
you never know!

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#67774 - 04/08/13 09:23 PM Re: Accident in the Nears on Saturday [Re: Julie]
Gail Offline
journeyman

Registered: 08/01/07
Posts: 95
Loc: Gardiner, NY
Speedy recovery to all involved.

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