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#67997 - 05/02/13 05:46 PM toprope soloing-best routes?
scottf Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/02/13
Posts: 5
Any advice on most promising routes for top-rope soloing (fixed anchor above, minitraxion x 2 etc.) that meet these general criteria? -

1) Relatively easy access from above
2) Good anchor availability
2) Nice exposure
4) Sustained climbing, possibly even up to 175 feet more or less straight up (limited traverses etc. - difficult with fixed anchors above)
5) Least disruptive to others

many thanks!

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#67998 - 05/02/13 06:53 PM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: scottf]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Unfortunately, All the best routes I can think of for this in the Trapps are generally very popular climbs. I have done some of this at Peterskill, which works well, but these are certainly not going to give the length of climb you asked for. Keep in mind that there is tremendous stretch on a 100+ pice of rope and you might then hit the ground with any fall from lower than 10+ feet off the ground. Have fun!

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#67999 - 05/02/13 06:59 PM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: chip]
scottf Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/02/13
Posts: 5
True - I use a static rope, which helps on the stretch. And I do enjoy Peterskill too, which makes it simple... just love to get on some higher and longer routes...

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#68001 - 05/03/13 02:09 AM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: scottf]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
What sort of grade are you looking for?

Doing something long in one pitch likely means you'll be approaching the top by hiking up. How well can you recognize routes from the top of the Trapps? Or Nears for that matter. Cuz I'll recommend Grand Central, but if you don't know where it tops out, you could waste a lot of time getting set up properly.

Maybe Arrow, No Glow (yea, it traverses just off the GTL but it's a safe i.e. outward, swing if you come off). Doubleissima. Birdland, Fat City Direct.

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#68003 - 05/03/13 04:29 AM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: Mike Rawdon]
scottf Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/02/13
Posts: 5
Up to mid-5.11's. Am pretty new to the area - Thanks a lot - I agree it's going to take some time and beta locating the top-outs. I'll look these climbs up.

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#68004 - 05/03/13 04:32 AM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: scottf]
scottf Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/02/13
Posts: 5
by the way, just wondering, could climbs like Dennis or Jackie go in one pitch this way, and easy to set up from top? convenient from uberfall it seems

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#68009 - 05/03/13 04:48 PM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: scottf]
RobT Offline
stranger

Registered: 11/05/09
Posts: 17
Loc: Washington Heights
Almost anything in the Nears.

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#68014 - 05/06/13 03:10 PM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: RobT]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
why do folks describe pitches in feet when ropes are measured in meters wink

if you had a 70m you can do Doubleissima, Ridiculissima, Double Crack, retribution, (might be too overhanging.. i dunno but they are straight nice routes)

mid week you're less likely to run into people on the more popular stuff.


Edited by jakedatc (05/06/13 03:42 PM)

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#68015 - 05/06/13 04:27 PM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: jakedatc]
retroscree Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Originally Posted By: jakedatc
why do folks describe pitches in feet when ropes are measured in meters wink

For many decades, US guidebooks described routes and pitches in feet. Ropes were also sold in feet. Designating rope lengths in meters in the US is a relatively new practice which really didn't take hold until the later half of the 90's.

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#68016 - 05/06/13 05:33 PM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: retroscree]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
so ropes haven't been sold that way in quite a while.. get with the times man wink haha I can understand still labeling pitches that way.. but when asking for what routes can be done at what rope length using the newer standard would seem easier. I know a friend did ridiculissima and Madamn G's in 1 pitch with a 70m. no idea how many feet that is.

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