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#67997 - 05/02/13 05:46 PM toprope soloing-best routes?
scottf Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/02/13
Posts: 5
Any advice on most promising routes for top-rope soloing (fixed anchor above, minitraxion x 2 etc.) that meet these general criteria? -

1) Relatively easy access from above
2) Good anchor availability
2) Nice exposure
4) Sustained climbing, possibly even up to 175 feet more or less straight up (limited traverses etc. - difficult with fixed anchors above)
5) Least disruptive to others

many thanks!

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#67998 - 05/02/13 06:53 PM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: scottf]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Unfortunately, All the best routes I can think of for this in the Trapps are generally very popular climbs. I have done some of this at Peterskill, which works well, but these are certainly not going to give the length of climb you asked for. Keep in mind that there is tremendous stretch on a 100+ pice of rope and you might then hit the ground with any fall from lower than 10+ feet off the ground. Have fun!

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#67999 - 05/02/13 06:59 PM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: chip]
scottf Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/02/13
Posts: 5
True - I use a static rope, which helps on the stretch. And I do enjoy Peterskill too, which makes it simple... just love to get on some higher and longer routes...

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#68001 - 05/03/13 02:09 AM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: scottf]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
What sort of grade are you looking for?

Doing something long in one pitch likely means you'll be approaching the top by hiking up. How well can you recognize routes from the top of the Trapps? Or Nears for that matter. Cuz I'll recommend Grand Central, but if you don't know where it tops out, you could waste a lot of time getting set up properly.

Maybe Arrow, No Glow (yea, it traverses just off the GTL but it's a safe i.e. outward, swing if you come off). Doubleissima. Birdland, Fat City Direct.

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#68003 - 05/03/13 04:29 AM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: Mike Rawdon]
scottf Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/02/13
Posts: 5
Up to mid-5.11's. Am pretty new to the area - Thanks a lot - I agree it's going to take some time and beta locating the top-outs. I'll look these climbs up.

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#68004 - 05/03/13 04:32 AM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: scottf]
scottf Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/02/13
Posts: 5
by the way, just wondering, could climbs like Dennis or Jackie go in one pitch this way, and easy to set up from top? convenient from uberfall it seems

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#68009 - 05/03/13 04:48 PM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: scottf]
RobT Offline
stranger

Registered: 11/05/09
Posts: 17
Loc: Washington Heights
Almost anything in the Nears.

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#68014 - 05/06/13 03:10 PM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: RobT]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
why do folks describe pitches in feet when ropes are measured in meters wink

if you had a 70m you can do Doubleissima, Ridiculissima, Double Crack, retribution, (might be too overhanging.. i dunno but they are straight nice routes)

mid week you're less likely to run into people on the more popular stuff.


Edited by jakedatc (05/06/13 03:42 PM)

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#68015 - 05/06/13 04:27 PM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: jakedatc]
retroscree Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Originally Posted By: jakedatc
why do folks describe pitches in feet when ropes are measured in meters wink

For many decades, US guidebooks described routes and pitches in feet. Ropes were also sold in feet. Designating rope lengths in meters in the US is a relatively new practice which really didn't take hold until the later half of the 90's.

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#68016 - 05/06/13 05:33 PM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: retroscree]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
so ropes haven't been sold that way in quite a while.. get with the times man wink haha I can understand still labeling pitches that way.. but when asking for what routes can be done at what rope length using the newer standard would seem easier. I know a friend did ridiculissima and Madamn G's in 1 pitch with a 70m. no idea how many feet that is.

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#68020 - 05/06/13 07:21 PM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: jakedatc]
retroscree Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Exactly. We've been buying ropes in meters for well over a decade yet we still have no idea how that relates to the pitches we climb.

Doing Gunks routes in one pitch with a 70m is certainly possible. It's also a great way for the second to hit the ground on those routes with low cruxes.

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#68021 - 05/06/13 07:53 PM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: retroscree]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
Yea. definitely depends on the route and the parties involved.

I was on the anchor of Son of Easy O and i thought one stronger (.13) friend was climbing and it turned out another(.8-9) was going to try first and I didn't have him as tight as i would have and he was just off the ground from rope stretch. and that's only 35m. I also probably would have just lowered off and belayed from the bottom.

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#68024 - 05/06/13 09:38 PM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: jakedatc]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Some routes with early difficulty where combining pitches is a bad idea: Classic, Son of EO, Maria Direct, Higher Stannard, Drunkards. Absurdland (OK, there's no real 2nd pitch here to combine), Three Vultures, Directissima, Double Crack.

Probably a few at Near Trapps, but I'm not gonna rack my brain to think of them. Broken Sling and Criss Cross do come to mind however.

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#68025 - 05/06/13 10:25 PM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: Mike Rawdon]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
I know, but we were talking about him TR soloing so many of those have traverses he won't want either so it's not an issue. So it's more of what he is comfortable getting himself up off the ground on when rope stretch and slack with (solo device of choice) could be an issue.

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#68028 - 05/06/13 11:52 PM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: jakedatc]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Yes, I know. I was more following the tangent that 70m ropes let one string pitches together. My point - which has been made before by others - is that sometimes that's a bad idea.

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#68029 - 05/07/13 12:22 AM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: jakedatc]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1530
Loc: New Jersey
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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#68033 - 05/07/13 01:58 PM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: donald perry]
scottf Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/02/13
Posts: 5
Thanks Donald, that's a great start. I appreciate the post.

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#69005 - 10/14/13 03:18 AM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: scottf]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
For least disruptive, access to top... its the place no one talks about (LC).. The Trapps fit the bill but there will be lots of climbs that you will probably disrupt people, until you get into the mid.11's... give you are saying 175ft, I take it your static line is 55m which is unusual sinxe often the static line is 60m, 70m, 100m (half spool) or 200m (full spool) I ask since I am starting to use a 200m static line to work projects.


Edited by Chas (10/14/13 03:24 AM)

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#69006 - 10/14/13 03:23 AM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: jakedatc]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
70m is about 230ft

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#69150 - 10/25/13 09:52 PM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: Chas]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2361
Loc: Boston
I've never toprope soloed anything longer than a short pitch, but it seems like there should be a pretty decent solution to a number of issues, including overhangs, short traverses, and rope stretch at the bottom:

After setting the anchor, rap the route (wouldn't you need to do this anyway to get the rope running cleanly?) and as you do, set directionals on your way down. Then, periodically, leave the rope tied in direct to pieces (perhaps at stances).

Seems like this should take care of all of those issues, no?

GO

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