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#67959 - 04/29/13 01:41 AM Modern Times - Variation history question
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
I am trying to settle something. I would like to know the order that the variations were done. (also if anyone wants to draw in the variations on my pics or others)

I always believed that the 5.8+ out right of the tree, up to the ledge then up to the top was the original.

there are 3 other variations listed in Grey Dick.

.9 Exit stage left V1

.10a V2 hand traverse right on horizontal

.9+ direct finish V3



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#67960 - 04/29/13 02:06 AM Re: Modern Times - Variation history question [Re: jakedatc]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
This is what he is claiming. I have pretty much pictures of the full sequence if the ones above aren't clear enough to show I did the original route

Quote:
The great classic route in traditional style that jake dack did was not the roof of modern time.

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#67961 - 04/29/13 03:57 AM Re: Modern Times - Variation history question [Re: jakedatc]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 709
Loc: NYC
I think what you did is Modern Times. It is the 5.8 way. I don't know if it is original but I think so. The 1970 Vulgarian Digest describes the route (in 5 pitches!). It says to go to notch in overhang, surmount the overhang then "traverse right, scared shitless, to large pine." If I'm not mistaken this pine is now gone. Not that definitive but seems to match your way, Jake.
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#67962 - 04/29/13 04:18 AM Re: Modern Times - Variation history question [Re: SethG]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
I think so too.. I found the scan of that edition. hehe good old stuff there.

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#67965 - 04/29/13 03:00 PM Re: Modern Times - Variation history question [Re: jakedatc]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 619
Exit Stage Left is a complete route, done in 1979, but no one does the lower pitches as they are very dirty. The last pitch is an exciting bit of climbing and it's worth your time. I did the section up the GT ledge once; it was pretty non-descript. Dick's guide lists the last pitch of Exit Stage Left as Variation 1, but he incorrectly credits Mike Schneider with the first ascent. Schneider did the 5.9+ variation, listed as Variation 3. Neither Willaims or Swain has any info. on the 5.10 variation.

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#67966 - 04/29/13 03:01 PM Re: Modern Times - Variation history question [Re: jakedatc]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
LOL he thinks the bendy tree is the no longer there "pine tree belay" after you pull over the roof. buhahhaa

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#67986 - 05/01/13 12:32 AM Re: Modern Times - Variation history question [Re: jakedatc]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
Which variation is this one?



Edited by jakedatc (05/01/13 12:44 AM)

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#67991 - 05/01/13 05:26 PM Re: Modern Times - Variation history question [Re: jakedatc]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3764
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Well the start of that variation is Exit Stage Left. After surmounting the first roof with the crack in it though, it crab crawls straight left...hence the name. I've never done it the way you draw it.

By the way...Exit stage Left is quite strenuous for a 5.9, in my opinion.

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#67993 - 05/02/13 03:09 AM Re: Modern Times - Variation history question [Re: RangerRob]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
Thanks Rob. that seems to be the consensus that the line is basically off route and making it hard on yourself to do the normal way. (this was done by someone else, i'm the one in the photo doing the standard way)

i didnt get to the gunks at all last season and thinking about routes this week has me itching to go :P

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#67995 - 05/02/13 04:09 PM Re: Modern Times - Variation history question [Re: jakedatc]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 709
Loc: NYC
You can tell your friend his way is the noob fail way.
_________________________
It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

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