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#68020 - 05/06/13 07:21 PM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: jakedatc]
retroscree Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Exactly. We've been buying ropes in meters for well over a decade yet we still have no idea how that relates to the pitches we climb.

Doing Gunks routes in one pitch with a 70m is certainly possible. It's also a great way for the second to hit the ground on those routes with low cruxes.

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#68021 - 05/06/13 07:53 PM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: retroscree]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
Yea. definitely depends on the route and the parties involved.

I was on the anchor of Son of Easy O and i thought one stronger (.13) friend was climbing and it turned out another(.8-9) was going to try first and I didn't have him as tight as i would have and he was just off the ground from rope stretch. and that's only 35m. I also probably would have just lowered off and belayed from the bottom.

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#68024 - 05/06/13 09:38 PM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: jakedatc]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4275
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Some routes with early difficulty where combining pitches is a bad idea: Classic, Son of EO, Maria Direct, Higher Stannard, Drunkards. Absurdland (OK, there's no real 2nd pitch here to combine), Three Vultures, Directissima, Double Crack.

Probably a few at Near Trapps, but I'm not gonna rack my brain to think of them. Broken Sling and Criss Cross do come to mind however.

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#68025 - 05/06/13 10:25 PM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: Mike Rawdon]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
I know, but we were talking about him TR soloing so many of those have traverses he won't want either so it's not an issue. So it's more of what he is comfortable getting himself up off the ground on when rope stretch and slack with (solo device of choice) could be an issue.

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#68028 - 05/06/13 11:52 PM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: jakedatc]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4275
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Yes, I know. I was more following the tangent that 70m ropes let one string pitches together. My point - which has been made before by others - is that sometimes that's a bad idea.

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#68029 - 05/07/13 12:22 AM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: jakedatc]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1527
Loc: New Jersey
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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#68033 - 05/07/13 01:58 PM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: donald perry]
scottf Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/02/13
Posts: 5
Thanks Donald, that's a great start. I appreciate the post.

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#69005 - 10/14/13 03:18 AM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: scottf]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
For least disruptive, access to top... its the place no one talks about (LC).. The Trapps fit the bill but there will be lots of climbs that you will probably disrupt people, until you get into the mid.11's... give you are saying 175ft, I take it your static line is 55m which is unusual sinxe often the static line is 60m, 70m, 100m (half spool) or 200m (full spool) I ask since I am starting to use a 200m static line to work projects.


Edited by Chas (10/14/13 03:24 AM)

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#69006 - 10/14/13 03:23 AM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: jakedatc]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
70m is about 230ft

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#69150 - 10/25/13 09:52 PM Re: toprope soloing-best routes? [Re: Chas]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2359
Loc: Boston
I've never toprope soloed anything longer than a short pitch, but it seems like there should be a pretty decent solution to a number of issues, including overhangs, short traverses, and rope stretch at the bottom:

After setting the anchor, rap the route (wouldn't you need to do this anyway to get the rope running cleanly?) and as you do, set directionals on your way down. Then, periodically, leave the rope tied in direct to pieces (perhaps at stances).

Seems like this should take care of all of those issues, no?

GO

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